corypro

Now that the weather is starting to warm up here in the great north, I'm going to start working on my Banshee once more. I am currently in the middle of a rebuild and I needed some questions answered. The reason for the rebuild is because the prior owner of the bike blew a piston. I was originally hoping to just go once size over the prior bore and just hone it. Now that I have some spare cash and the time to actually work on the bike I was wondering what I will need if I choose to go bigger. From my understanding, the largest bore i could go with stock cylinders is 66mm. Would this mean I need to bore my cylinders or am I required to install a new sleeve? Second question is, since I'm going over 80, would I require new jets to tweek the a/f or am I okay with stock jet? Any help would be greatly appreciated! I would love to get these parts on order in the next 24 hours so I can have them by the weekend.

Ok, so here's what i'm going to do. The person who I bought the banshee from blew a piston and made quite a mess. It was a 64.75 but I would feel better if I went up one size incase some of the scores would not allow for proper compression. Wiseco is my number one choice but I wanted to educate myself and explore all my options. It seems like there are other popular choices like forged WSM pistons and Namura's. What info can you guys share on these other brands?

I'll have to snap some pics tonight but from what I can recall, there were no identifiable markings as to any brand. It looked like a cheap cast but it's not like I had plans on putting this engine through a battery of torture tests.

So in the midst of a rebuild I went and ordered a .75 piston kit from ebay. Thinking I was getting a wiesco kit, I actually received two no-name pistons and am stuck between a rock and a hard place at the moment. I cannot return the pistons as the seller has been removed from eBay. I was wondering if anyone has used the same pistons I've received and what was their experience like. Would it be worth it to cut my losses and go with a wiseco kit? http://www.m-and-d.com/ATV-612-7821.html M&D Piston (made in Taiwan) Thanks for your input

What's your personal preference? It would be for putting the case back together

So far everything has been working out fine. Upon inspection, the person who owned this bike previous to me used a 13 primary and what looks like a 42 on the rear. I was wondering if anyone had any experience they would like to share pertaining to these sprokets. I heard JT's have some play in them as well as MSR, Hard Drive, PBI and so on. Since this is one of the main reasons for replacing the sprockets I was wondering if you could recommend a good brand that has little to no play and is durable. Thanks!

Thanks. I guess it's all about playing around and finding what works best for my particular style of riding. I'll grab a 13 and 41/42 and play with that. When it comes to chains I know there are loads of different styles but could someone recommend one that would take a beating and doesn't mind getting full of mud and water? I have a choice of either an o-ring or non o-ring.

So I'm quite new when it comes to Banshee's but I've been taking my time, learning, and reading as much info as possible before I get this beast running next spring. Upon rebuilding the engine, I noticed that my main drive sprocket is shot. My rear sprocket looks like it's been through hell, and my chain is rusted out. It's what you would expect when buying a Banshee for $1000 Canadian. Anywho, I've never ridden a Banshee before and am quite used to my 200 Blaster. I've played around with a Warrior for some time and I love the torque that it has over the Blaster and this has put me in a bind. The ATV would be solely used for trail riding and I would need the torque for climbing some of the hills I had troubles with in the Blaster. I know the stock gears are 14/41 and if I want more torque, I should be shooting for a 13 or 12 toothed primary gear, but I'm not sure how the rear gear works into this equation. Could someone explain this to me and recommend a good ratio for trails? I wish I could have been on one before the mods because I have no clue what the stock torque feels like. Thanks in advance

I cannot edit my post Video:

Hey guys. I cant seem to find any info in my manual. My main drive sprocket has a few degrees of play in either direction. The nut is also welded on and was wondering if this is how it should be Thanks!

Does anybody know how much these run for? To remove the tors on my Blaster all I had to do was remove the module and close a wire circuit located in my throttle box. With the Banshee it seems a little more than that and it looks like you actually have to acquire replacement throttle cables and more. From your experiences, can I go about removing the tors without this kit or no? If no, I've seen kits around $60 but shipping to my area would be another $30 so I don't know if it's really worth it. Any input would be appreciated Thanks@

A++ seller! I purchased some parts and he had no problems shipping them to Canada @ our rates. Item was received in great condition for an awesome price! I would highly recommend him to anyone. Thanks again!

I'm replacing it because a piston is shot. It completely disintegrated. I mic'd the one piston and it was exactly 64.75mm and was in impecable condition which is why im thinking the motor wasn't broken in yet when a piston was blown

Well, I'm about to order some pistons and a top end gasket kit but I've got a question. After inspecting the heads, it looks like the pistons were just replaced and the engine wasn't broken in. The pistons were 64.75mm and one had no wear whatsoever. Would you recommend boring to 65 or would you think it's okay to stick with 64.7mm? If I go over once more, I've been quoted $160 for the bore. IMO, I don't really see the need but I wanted to ask for your opinion. Thanks

As the topic states, I'm looking for a standard bore head. If you have a piston, that would be a bonus. I live in Canada so please PM me with an idea as to the shipping costs and I can give you an address if you would rather be more precise. Thanks!

I'm splitting it to repair the connector rod bearing. The previous owner blew the engine and upon replacing the pistons, I noticed loads of freeplay which leads me to believe there is no bearing left. The main reason why I didnt want to remove the gears isn't because I'm lazy. It's just because I'm afraid of screwing up the timing. The manual doesn't ever talk about it when dismantling these gears so I just wanted to play it safe

So I'm about to split my crankcase but I had a question. The manual that I'm following wants me to take out the clutch, kick start gear and the gear on the end of the crankshaft. Is this necessary? It looks like I can just split it and it should slide out.

So I looked into a larger bore and it seems there are pistons available in increments of .25mm. If I'm going to bore it out, what size would you deem acceptable before I would have to go with bigger jets or more a/m parts? I wouldn't mind going a bit bigger if I have to replace the internals anways. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

So as you may know, I'm doing a complete rebuild on my 350 and this will be my first teardown on a 2 stroke. The mechanic in me keeps wanting to going back to reference past jobs on my engines (in my head), but I know I shouldn't be doing this so hopefully you guys can guide me in the right direction. First things first. I've read the Clymers manual and the downloadable service book and followed every step. So far it's been rather simple and I haven't hit any snags yet, but I know I will when it comes to the technical stuff, so here I go. I pulled the heads off and measured the dimension with a caliper and they were both 62mm across. Stock dimensions in my manual say it's 64mm? Can someone confirm this? Second question, can I replace the 62mm pistons with the same size or no? If no, I'm assuming I will have to hone it out to the next size up. Will I require a 62mm piston with oversized rings or a larger piston with normal rings? If yes, what should I keep an eye out for? I would imagine there has been some warpage and the pistons may have some play in the cylinder. It also looks like the walls on one cylinder head have been scored, Third question. The cylinder head plate/dome has some damage Can i use a dremel to debarb the grooves and flatten it out or will this cause air flow issues or possibly lean out my a/f? I would image not since the surface area increase would be marginal. Fourth question. The conrod can move freely on the crank due to the blown out bearing. When I pull the crank out of the case, what other internals should I replace while I'm in there? If the crank is scored where the conrod sits, what steps should I take (if any) to fix this? Fifth and last question (for now). This is one I'm having troubles with and have no clue where to go. What head gasket would you recommend? Oversized? Regular? Cosmetic? Also, can someone shed some light on these for me? How do each differ? Performance? Durability? Strength? Thanks once again guys for helping me out. I truly appreciate it!

Hey guys. I don't know if I'm allowed to post this here but I'm quite new and not familiar with the board. I was going to be rebuilding my 350 and I know I will be requiring conrod bearings and pistons. Rather than ordering them off eBay, I was wondering what sponsored site we use here specifically for those who are in need of internals? Thanks!

Without thread-jacking, I would like to mention that I bought my Blaster with the tors already uninstalled so I know this isnt my problem.

You know, I started reading this thread and I started out laughing. After reading the entire thing I am convinced this is the exact same problem I have but with my Blaster. I started happening to me when one of my stator wires melted to the exhaust and caused a short. Since then, Ive never had it run for more than 2 minutes at a time. When it's warm, it won't run for more than 15 seconds. I've tried different fuel, different fuel lines, different plug, different cdi box, and cleaned the carb. I've also checked my coils on my stator and resoldered the connections incase they were shorting. I've also tried running it with an open air box incase it was getting constricted somewhere, without the exhause pipe, a different voltage regulator, and disabling the kill switch. I do not have my tors hooked up. Short of replacing the stator plate, I've tried everything in the book and still continue to have this problem. In the meantime, I picked up a Banshee to work on. I'll keep you posted if I ever fix mine. Please post a response if you ever find a fix.

Hey guys! I just want to start this post off by saying what a wonderful site this is. I've talked with a number of members already and everyone is eager to help and sourcing parts isn't nearly as hard as I thought it was going to be. I've only been riding for one season now but I was bitten by the bug hard. I've purchased two bikes and three atv's, all Yamaha's with the exception of my KX250. My brother and I were going to start a business venture together and buy busted up toys, fix them up and sell them. I came across a deal I couldn't pass up and went in with the fiancee instead. I ended up purchasing an 01 Banshee for $1000 a few weeks ago. It's kick start lever was stolen and I was told it was seized. After doing research and surfing these forums, I've changed my mind and I'm going to be keeping this one for myself . I'm quite a keener when it comes to learning things and am mechanically inclined but am more familiar with car engines and more specifically, fuel injected motors. I was hoping I could get a few pointers with this rebuild. I finally had a chance to pull the engine out today and pulled the cover off the cylinder and found that the right cylinder's piston must have blown a ring. What options do I have here? Would my best option be to buy two new pistons, hone the head and hope I don't need to re-jet the carbs for the oversized pistons? Or is it possible just to buy a used/complete head and swap it out? Here are some pics: Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I'm looking for one in decent condition. I would prefer to locate one in Canada. Please PM me a price. Thanks!

Thanks guys. That's exactly what I'm looking for