k_allison510

I am not sure on the hours. I have put about 15 hours since I got it and the guy I got it from said that it was a fresh rebuild but he has proven to be a lying s.o.b. about some other stuff so theres no telling.

I have been running the same jets for a while with no issues. I let it warm up idleing and then rode it easy for a while and never really even ripped on it at all today. I went out to the shop after I posted earlier and noticed a small puddle of coolant but could not tell exactly where it came from. Would that have anything to do with it? And also, it was not sputtering until right before it locked up. I mean about 10 seconds give or take, other than that, it appeared to be running fine, but like I said, I never got on it. Was just cruising in 4th or 5th when it all started going to shit.

Unloaded it and rode about 2 or 3 miles and it was running fine. About a half mile after that it started spitting and sputtering and then locked up. Got it towed back to camp and then tried to kick it and it wont budge. It had plenty of coolant and the gas was mixed at 40:1 with H1R synthetic. So my main questions are.......what would have caused this and about how much $$ am I looking at to rebuild this thing. I know its hard to estimate since I havent torn it apart yet, but some estimates would be good enough to see if I even want to mess with it. Thanks

Stuff was packaged good and shipped very fast. Thanks for a pleasant transaction Tony.

The 17's are the smallest that will fit. They only clear the caliper by a 8thof an inch or so. The aftermarket 17's I put on my megacab were even a little closer than the stock.

Was riding today and the part of the cable that goes from 2 into 1 fell on top of the head and melted just enough to sieze the cable a little bit. After everything cooled down I tried to turn the throttle and it was stuck and the damn cable broke inside the housing next to the grip. So my question is: can I just buy a new cable and hook everything back up the way it was? I am not sure what brand of twist throttle I have since it was on there when I got the bike. Here's a picture of the top of the housing and a link to the cable that I found that looks like the one that is on there. Thanks again guys. This bike would be a huge paper weight with out you guys and this site. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Yamaha-Banshee-Twist-Throttle-Cable-Vitos-CR-Style-/200278971925?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ea18e9615

great info guys. thanks for the help.

I am sure that it is for adjusting something but I dont know what and dont want to mess with it until I find out. Thanks

Ok, so I got everything pulled apart today. The claw that engages the shift star was in a little bit of a bind. I pulled on the shift shaft a little and it freed the claw. The spring is still in good condition and everything looks good inside. The only problem is I tried to run it through the gears while everything was still apart. 1st and 2nd went great. It then went into 3rd and then would not up shift any further. I tried spinning the rear wheels and it eventually "clicked" and then would go into 4th but then did same thing all the way to 6th. Looking at the shift star while ddoing this it appeared that it was not engaging the gear enough for the claw to grab the next peg until you spin the hell out of the rear wheels. Is this normal? Thanks again. Also, could you guys recomend the best oil to put back in the gear box. Thanks

Ok, Thanks for info. I guess I will go pull the clutch cover and go from there.

Ok, so went to our local ride spot this morning and rode a very light trail for about 15 minutes. When I got back to camp I could not get it to go into nuetral. I then realized that it would not go in 1st at all. I can get it to shift into 3rd but when I do, the shift lever does not return to level position. It stays up like when you pull it up to shift. I did not hear or notice anything out of the normal on the ride. No pops or grinding. I can not hear anything rattling around when I role it. Any help on this is greatly apreciated. Thanks. Kevin

I was riding this past weekend and every time I crossed the river, the bike would run like a car would when you get water up on the distributor. It would still run and still hit the power band but felt like it was only running at about %75 with alot of "pinging" coming from the front of the exhaust. The thing that gets me is it takes forever to get it to clear out, and most of the time I have to go over to the straights and air it out before it will clear out. I was crossing through about 8"-10" deep water. The first couple of times I went through kinda fast but after words on the way back, I went through about as slow as I could. Is there anything I can do to keep this from happening? Thanks

Here's my MegaCab

Hi, I was wondering if anyone could tell me if the 4 allen bolts that hold the rear brake rotor to the hub are reverse thread by chance. If not, anyone got any tricks to get these off. I already stripped one then used my dremmel to cut a slot in it and still could not get it off. Thanks

I am actually going to get rid of "the girls" for something else, just have not had a chance to look yet.

I finally got the bike back put back together today. I still have a few things like grips and new shocks but it is finally ride-able. The clutch ended up being put back in the wrong way which was the cause of the very hard shifting. Other than that, there was just a lot of stuff installed wrong or way off. I did order a clymer manual and now that everything seems to be right, I am some what sure that I can handle anything that may go wrong. Thanks to everyone for all the help and information. Before: After:

I was wondering if anyone had ever mounted a tachometer on their shee?

What do you guys think on this? http://amarillo.craigslist.org/rvs/1832514836.html

I guess I am going to go order some. I will let you guys know how they turn out.

Hi, I was wondering if anyone had ever bought any of the " N style" graphics off of ebay. Sure are awful cheap to be worth a shit. Thanks http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/N-STYLE-GRAPHICS-YAMAHA-BANSHEE-RED-BLACK-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563e1d5ecdQQitemZ370409299661QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Thanks for all the info. Its at the shop right now getting the clutch and looking at the carb problem. As soon as I get it back, I get some pics posted up. Thanks again.

I have been reading since I posted and have found alot out, but the more I read the more I get worried. There is alot of stuff about how un reliable they are. I understand that they are going to require more maintenance than a 4 stroke but I am seeing people say that after an hour of trail riding, it will be toast and nickel and dime me to death. I am sure I will race it a little with buddies but nothing major, mostly just trail and river riding with the occasional "airing out". Most of the quads I see on here seem to be heavily modded. So, after all that. Will a regular old banshee be reliable as long as the basic maintenance is performed? Thanks

Hi all. My name is Kevin. I am 27 and from Amarillo, Texas. I have been wanting to get a quad for a while and finally came across a 2001 that I bought. I paid 900 for it last Friday. I does need a clutch. I have some questions about some of the things that are done to it. It has cool heads and a boost bottle. It is bored .20 over and has duel fmf fattys. I took it to a local shop today to start the repair process and he told me that it had a spinner clutch. My questions are: basic info of the aftermarket stuff on the bike. How big is the engine now that it is bored? And was the $900 to much knowing the problems. It does start easily but the right cylinder was not firing/ mis-firing. I did not let it idle long. The quad is a bit ugly do to ALOT of stickers but the plastic is in good condition and could be painted easily. That is about all I know at this point. I have a bunch more questions about Banshees in general but will leave it at that for now. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks