elgoyoloco

I really liked my Barnett with the steel inserts but the cushions seemed to be crap. The mattoon seems like a product half finished. Just a chunk of machined aluminum with no hardening. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So is this what I should get? http://m.ebay.com/itm/221984335557 Not sure I like that it's not anodized or hardened and no oil drainage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm talking about this eccentric bolt. Note - Google picture, not of mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup. They also use a much better setup on the yfz450. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any ideas to keep the eccentric bolt from coming loose. I used loctite and a new locking plate, still came loose. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The straight cuts are a perk. I'm more interested in the spring damper instead of cushion. I haven't found any other manufacturers doing that. I will change my oil more frequent if it makes everybody happy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's a gearbox using gear oil. Hasn't been an issue for 14 years. Oil always looked good until this failure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm really thinking of getting one of these. A bit pricey though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was thinking of possibly reusing the basket but I hear you have to send it into Barnett to get the steels replaced. I don't think Barnett will touch it looking like this. Trans oil gets replaced every season. Only 1 season with the serval. Everything looked perfect at serval build. Pretty sure they were just old and deteriorated and the serval just destroyed them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Disassembled clutch side for a sheared shift eccentric screw and found cushion material everywhere. This is about a 5 year old Barnett basket/cushions. Is this normal for the polyurethane cushions and is rubber better? Basket also needs to be replaced due to broken eccentric getting jammed between the basket and clutch cover. Maybe it's time for a Hinson H120 with spring dampers. Note - it's on a 421 serval.

Any sales still going on? Looking to build a 421 serval and some shearer inframes.

Definitely heel kick. You get used to it pretty quick. Thankfully banshees are easy to start.

I purchased the XFR's from ebay. Im really happy with them, they are well built with nice welds. Foot pegs are in stock location, I guess it would have been nice if they were a little lower and set back. Its a little tight with a size 13 riding boot. I put a Hammerhead extended shift lever tip on for extra room. Overall nice product. Some pics mounted. http://i1305.photobucket.com/albums/s556/gregjune/banshee/IMG_0133_zps4f44542a.jpg http://i1305.photobucket.com/albums/s556/gregjune/banshee/IMG_0132_zps1b984960.jpg http://i1305.photobucket.com/albums/s556/gregjune/banshee/IMG_0207_zpsb86cc1cc.jpg

Finally time port my engine, but I'm running FMF SST pipes. I heard they don't perform well with porting. Has anybody run this configuration? Or should i pick up some T-5's?

Yes problem is found. Brand new 33mm pwk's in hand, just waiting on intake adapters. So when I sink the carbs I'm just making sure theyre both facing the right direction right??? Lol just kidding. Of course I sync the carbs after almost every repair. I may have a set of 21cc's Tim Lutz, but one dome is not quite as pretty as the other.

And by "future" upgrades I mean as soon as I stop melting holes in pistons.

Went over the carbs some more. Tested choke circuit on left carb with a vacuum pump and confirmed significant air leak though choke valve shaft. I'm going to remove head gasket, reset my timing to +4 and replace carbs. So the next concern is 21cc dome okay for pump gas and 28 vs 33mm pwks. I know the 33's would be too big for stock bore/stroke but would they be better for future upgrades? It's not going to be set up for drags, it is a dune machine so its going to end up with a 4mm stroker and ported to match. Most likely stick with standard bore... maybe 68's.

Definitely not a crank seal because leak test shows good. I'm using a cooling system pressure tester for leak down so there is no bleed port. Also confirmed by immediate pressure drop when spark plugs are loosened. I'm using the single layer steel head gasket more of just a shim to drop the compression down slightly so I feel better with the readings. I'm also thinking my Snap-On compression tester is a bit inaccurate (showing high) so I'm going to borrow a coworkers to compare. Gasket flattens smoothly with adequate clamping force which shouldn't cause any etching issues. Can't be plugged main because I've been richening the mains to get the left cylinder not so lean. I appreciate everyone's help but there's really nothing left but the carbs. I'm going to dissect them some more but there's really not much to them. They are showing they're age, slide coatings are pretty much worn off and that choke valve has got me uneasy.

Yup choke tube is in, slides are correct and float levels are good. I definitely agree with an air leak, but its not in the engine, has to be in the carbs. I unscrewed the choke valve and pulled it out of the carb. Its was pretty caked with sand and crud, kinda makes me think it was pulling air through there. Guess I'll clean it and put it all back together then spray with carb cleaner while running to see if anything changes. I think I'll scrap the carbs anyways, they've worked hard and good for a while, but now they're just wasting my money. Plus I'm sick of looking at them.

Okay so another full engine rebuild, new pistons, new domes (measured old and new, both the same 21cc) and reset timing to +0 degrees. Checked compression, showing 165psi. Put in a head gasket and it dropped to around 158ish, I was okay with that. Checked squish, all okay. Ran a 50/50 mix of premium and race gas just to be sure. Broke it in and began jetting process. New plugs and 340 mains, right side plug looks good, left side completely white. Kept bumping up jetting until I reached a ridiculous 400 main jet. Right side is beginning to foul, left side completely white still. Parked it to no do any further damage. Removed pipes and carbs, went to home depot and built a leak down tester using pvc piping, rubber plugs and a cooling system pressure tester. Engine holds 6 psi for more than 15 minutes, even checked it under vacuum, all okay. No air leaks. WTF, looks like the only thing left is a bad left carb. Any other ideas? Also looking at 28mm or 33mm pwks, any suggestions?

Well I remeasured seems like 10 more times. I can't get an accurate reading. I reordered a set of 21's and I'll check the difference. It's the only thing that makes sense for the compression readings I'm getting. Piston dome shape looks similar to stock. Btw, I'm at 0.044" squish if anyone knows where I should be at with stock height cylinders, crank, wiseco pistons and pro design domes? This may also be a really dumb question because it seems like it to me but your not supposed to use head gaskets with cool heads right?

Yeah I have a feeling they'd tell me I should've checked compression before running it.

Okay so I measured the domes. If I plug the spark plug hole and fill the dome I'm at 18-19cc, hard to be exact with residual oil in measuring beaker. The domes are clearly stamped 21cc. I'm beginning the think pro design cost me a bunch of wasted money. Now should I order 21's again or be safer with 22's? Or am I measuring wrong?