Travis22

so i figured out what the problem was with the banshee. it was electrical. one of the spark plug caps wasnt getting good connection. so i repaced the caps, and trimmed the wires back... what a difference, i cant believe how this thing rips!!!! thanks everyone for the help and suggestions.

So do not plug the hole. i have the hole plugged right now so i will have to flip the throttle cable holder around. another question for ya... when synchronizing the carbs when the two indentation marks line up in the windows on the sides of the carbs, but i still have more throttle to go so they go beyond the windows... is that good or bad? the only way i can think to "fix" that is to screw the throttle limiter in to shorten the pull.

I noticed on the tops of the slides when you pull them out of the carbs that there are 4 holes. two for screws, one for the needle and what is the other hole for? im not sure if when i put the piece back in that hold the needle in place if im supposed to cover the hole or not?

ok, so new boots... same damn back firing at about 1/4-1/2 throttle... i cant believe what a POS this thing is being. following jetting directions to a T... i have two more options before i watch this thing burn and bring the metal to the scrap yard.... would definately rather watch this thing burn than sell it to someone who flips a preverbial switch to make it run like a top in 30 seconds... WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So Im 90% sure i figured out why my banshee has been giving me such a hard time with the jetting! i sprayed some more carb cleaner on the reed side of the carb and when i did, the idling dropped by about 50% didnt matter on which cylinder. upon further investigation i noticed that the boots were cracked terribly. i think all of the carb adjustments are what really tore them up. taking them on and off about 25 times... there was some old silicone on the boots. so i tried to use some more silicone after i cleaned the boots up from dirt and grease. that didnt work, so i ordered some boots and they will be here soon. hopefully that is the last thing i need to do before i can see what this banshee is all about! i will keep you all posted

Hey, I feel you pain about having a fresh rebuild and not having it run right. i have stock carbs and talked to someone and they told me my pilot jet was too small at a 25, they suggested 27.5's. sorry im not of more help, im waiting for my jets in the mail and my individual filters for the stage 3 kit. which is having the opposite problem as yours... runs great down low, and 3/4- full throttle she spits and sputters... good luck!

ALSO i checked for air leaks and didnt come up with any. hopefully someone has some ideas because i dont want to blow this thing up seems how it has 4-5 hours on a fresh motor....

so this morning i started messing around with the carbs. I got rid of the low end pop by turning the air screw in 1/2 turn so it accelerates great until just before red line then it starts hesitating. the troubleshooting guide that came with my jet kit says that would make it a rich condition. im not running the air box lid, so when i put the lid on and rode it, it didnt have hardly any power. so im wondering what should i check next, the needle which is on the 4th position, or drop one size Main jet to a 270?

so i just installed my TORS removal kit, which makes working on the carbs POSSIBLE. Then i installted a stage 3 jet kit. i am not running seperate K&N filters, just one K&N with the air box lid removed. it started after a few swift kicks idles great! took her down the driveway and when i stab the throttle down low it back fires once then clears up and seems to be running much stronger than before. I had 210 main jets with the air screws out about 2 turns, i have installed 280 MJ's with the fuel screw out 2.5 turns. it got dark out so i am waiting until the morning to see what i can come up with. as far as carb jetting goes, i only really know what the directions tell me. the needles are on the 4th groove out of 6. let me know if you have any other questions. it seems to do the same thing in every gear quick back fire(stumble) and then starts SCREAMING. jet kit was well worth it IMO. feels like it has wayyy more power. please let me know what you think

hello everyone, im trying to find a lesser expensive graphics kit for my yamaha banshee. i am not looking to spend too much money, unless i see the right kit. could someone please point me to a website or two? i have looked at CEET and didnt particularly like any of those. thanks for any replies

hello everyone again. so i changed my chain and sprockets and i got a 41 tooth rear sprocket so i had to adjust the chain to make the chain work. now the problem is that i adjust the chain the way my haynes manual says. which consists of jacking the wheeler up, and making sure there is roughly .5-.75" of slack measured in the chain. so when i get that and sit on the machine, the chain is way too tight. so like a dumbass i took it down the driveway and when i got back to the top it was loose. so it appears to me that the pinch bolts moved enough to make the chain have some slack. so i re-adjusted and re tightened everything(tighter than before) and the same thing happened, but not as bad. also how accurate are you supposed to get with those adjusters, after fumbling with it for and hour (my first time ever with this awesome setup...) i put a tape measure on the carrier and measured, they are different by a heavy 1/16". I guess i didnt learn nothing because i was unable to tell which way moved the adjuster in and out. someone please help me!!!

so i just got my 91 banshee running after a complete rebuild. first time i ever rode it i noticed how spanked the front shocks were. i know people say they are harsh, but i find them down right SOFT, way too soft. so im looking into putting something else on there. i also have a 400ex with 450r shocks on it. so im wondering if a set of 400ex stock pogos will fit. if i didnt give my old stockers away i would definately have checked them. so i just want to know besides yfz 450 shocks will fit?

Hey! Guess what?!?!? I changed my mind about the boost bottle! LOL. maybe perhaps some reeds!? i am running the stock reeds right now. they looked like they were in great shape. but thanks for all the replies!

hello everyone, im looking to put some mods on my shee and im wondering if a boost bottle is worth the cash or should i just save my money?? if they are worth having, which one should i get?

well i tore that all apart yesterday and that wasnt it. so im leaning towards a jetting issue. my jet kit is on the way. i also bought the TORs eliminator kit so im waiting to tear the carbs out and install the Tors kit and jet kit at the same time. i did notice that my flat spot on the top end moves to the bottom end once it been ridden for 10-15 minutes. i was able to take the shee down the road and man does that thing fly once the tires stop spinning. im used to my 400ex and bought a kx 125 bike. i fell in love with the power delivery of the 2 stroke. so on hard pack surfaces with the shee its like riding a rocket! i will let you all know how the rest of the installation goes. once i get some better looking plastics(someone spray painted them b4 i got it) i will post pics!

so looking at my manual again in the CDI Magneto check, it doesnt say how to adjust anything???

Well first of all thank you everyone that has given me ideas as to what it could have been! the clutch arm was not in the correct position, but!!!... there are two larger washers that go in between the clutch housing (thrust washer) and the clutch center. some how i put the two together on the clutch housing side. so once i noticed that by disecting the entire clutch and looking at the haynes manual part for part i very quickly noticed what was wrong... i have a couple of questions about my banshee now. what spark plugs should i use? i have ngk BR8ES in it now. it seems to have good throttle response down low and and exciting mid range but the top sounds like its sputtering or not quite firing correctly. what ratio of oil and gas should i use? im running it right around 30:1. normally i would run it 32:1 but i wanted plenty of lubrication. i see in the haynes manual it says to run it between 24:1 to 20:1. in which case im lean... any input would be great. its a 1991 banshee. also they call for B8ES for 1987-2000 and BR8ES for 2001-2006. thank you everyone once again for the input!!!

so i was going to tackle this job this morning because i thought it would be some what and easy task. im really itching to break this wheeler in! before i started to pull the clutch cover off i realized that the coolant needs to be drained! wtf? so now whats the best way to do this and not make a huge mess like i did once already? the manual says to loosen the hose clamp and remove it, which makes a huge mess. then there are the coolant drain plugs on each cylinder which says that it shoots the coolant out with some force? just wondering what is the best way to drain the coolant!!??

can anyone tell me which way im supposed to adjust the adjuster on the pressure plates? i am having trouble finding it anywhere online, and also cannot seem to find it in my haynes manual. please help, any suggestions would be great!

WOW, you have no idea how much time, and aggrivation you just saved me! i was going to tear half that thing apart again... and try to hold the clutch arm and put it back in the hole... only to find out that isnt at all what needed to be done. i thought when i was putting it together it looked like it only went on one way. i will definately give that a try. so to adjust the nut with the phillips headed screw, which way should i go? it looked as though it was flush with the nut upon assembly of everything else. either way i will figure it out. thank you all once again!

i jsut noticed that i dont have the cushion rings installed with my new clutch kit. they werent in the old clutch i removed either. it was rideable before the person i got it from threw a rod.

hey thanks for the reply. i did soad them in oil for about 20 minutes. but they then sat assembled in a "dry" engine for a day or two. while im tearing it apart to access the clutch arm i will soak them again. i also noticed this morning about the 60* in the manual. so thats another thing to fix. im glad i didnt try to do a 4- stroke. lol. probably would have smashed up all the valves or some other stupid monday detail. but i really do appreciate any info on this. thanks again!

i know my problem doesnt make much sense but thats whats happening, and im baffled as well... so i just went out and looked at the clutch arm to see if it was lined up with the arrow. it is not. sitting on the banshee the arrow is at 6 o'clock, while my clutch arm is at 8 o'clock. when i pull the clutch lever in the arm is pointing to where it should be (6 o'clock) as far as engine mods the only thing that is done to this banshee is 64.25 mm pistons, k&n air filter, toomey exhaust. really its pretty close to being stock. i am using yamalube 20w 50 for the warmer months. there is also ZERO play in the clutch lever. even when the adjuster is screwed all the way in. so i will have to remove the clutch plates to relieve pressure on the clutch cable. then make room to access the clutch arm. so how do i get the clutch arm to point at the arrow? i looked in my haynes manual and it doesnt say anything about the arrow and how to line th arm up, otherwise i might have noticed this. unfortunately i will not be able to work on my shee until tomorrow afternoon/evening... but when i started her up the sound of those toomey pipes was worth trading my kx 125... thanks for the quick responses!! i will definately let you know how it works when i get this issue fixed

hello everyone. i just finished my first engine rebuild and i chose a 91 yamaha banshee. so i got it all together tonight, took some coaxing to get her started back up, but she starts 1st or 2nd kick everytime. the problem is when i pull the clutch in to put it in gear it never releases the clutch so it stalls out. then when i do get it going and she hits the power band it slips a little. i know that the clutch operates because when i put it all together i watched the plates separate when i pulled the lever. the metal plates all had a bump on them which in the book it doesnt say anything about them so i did not align them, i turned them 1/4 turn from eachother. the book says that when the clutch is acting the way its acting that the plates are worn, but i purchased a brand new Tusk clutch kit with the stiffer springs. any ideas as to whats going on?