figuare9

MOTHER FUCKER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was literally JUST fuckin doing this.. I didn't get my pics up yet.. lol I got beat to it.. it looks just as sick.. I'm mixing the white carbon fiber with black though, Not going all white like you did. Still fucking hate you though..

Grab a clear glass..

You have to think that the aluminum probably isn't "Cast" and it's also sandwiched together by that bolt. You should be fine with the aluminum set up. It's nothing I'd worry about. However, like zwiser said, you can't go wrong with the IMS

I said this in another post, but it may help you.. you need to learn how to control the power you do have. 9 times out of 10, if you can get the whole shot, you'll get the race. When I ran my "Just piped" banshee against a yfz450 with a full exhaust, we were [neck and neck].. but that's also because out of the whole I had more balls. I know which wheeler "SHOULD" be faster, but it all depends on the operator too. The guy I raced does XC racing, some playing around on tracks, but just about every time we raced on pavement I could get him buy about 1 length through 1st gear. DON'T let off the gas!! Ever.. lol clutch fast, and keep it pinned. If you can grab the whole shot, you're probably not slow enough to make the difference. I've been racing people for 6 years that way on a motor that never had a bolt turned. Don't be afraid to let that throttle stay pinned. I'd try to clutch a little better as well. I know that's only ONE launch out of 100's you've probably done, but you don't EVER want to let off the throttle in a drag. Practice controlling the power from a dead stop without letting off the gas. Whether you feather the clutch more, or use less throttle. I also agree with the others. ur mixture is using too much oil. Here's what I think.. Oil creates heat, (believe it or not) and too much oil is bad.. Your timing, mixture, and jetting needs to be reworked. I'd start over from scratch on 32:1. Try running a 320/310 main. Depending on ur ele, etc. That's where I would start anyways. The biggest reason most of us are saying "operator error" is basically because a ported/piped,stroked blah blah blah banshee should tear a yfz a new one..

I just payed 1394 dollars to HJR... I got a 4 mill crank, ported, bore and hone, Chariot head, pistons and rings.. and a new tranny bearing... Add vforce3 reeds. 194 dollars on ebay add timing plate. 50 dollars add a carb rebuild kit 25 bucks.. (Always good to rebuild carbs ) You just got yourself a brand new 4 mill motor, complete with everything you need for under 1700 dollars.. My god.. How can you be "Okay" with spending that kind of money on a motor when you can get it from a site sponsor that does nothing but build banshee motors for a living.. Realistically, think shipping. $30 bucks for a good plastic box to ship it, get it at walmart or wherever $140 to ship both ways (Approx., depending on location) $1700 for the parts $labor, which from a site sponsor is rediculously cheap You'd save CLOSE to a grand.. and that's IF you went with all the bolt ons, porting, etc. WELL over a grand if u just wanted a stock motor rebuilt without any extras. If you're making enough money to not worry about 1000 dollars then answer me this; Are you adopting? Please say yes..

Welcome to BansheeHQ! First off, sorry about your problem.. Second off, I think you're kind of SOL.. If you replaced the shift shaft, checked the clearance on both sides, and it checked out.. then I don't know what to tell you. Did ur star seem to be working fine? Also, the shift shaft has an extremely small clearance on the star where it contacts top/bot. Double check it. Hard to explain without showing you, but without pullin the motor, I can't think of anything else. Time to split the cases I think! Explain to us what it's doing. Is the shifter not moving down at all? did anything seem out of place? etc.

First off, you guys need to run on pavement, second off, you need to learn how to control the power you do have. 9 times out of 10, if you can get the whole shot, you'll get the race. When I ran my "Just piped" banshee against a yfz450 with a full exhaust, we were neck and neck.. but that's also because out of the whole I had more balls. I know which wheeler "SHOULD" be faster, but it all depends on the operator too. The guy I raced does XC racing, some playing around on tracks, but just about every time we raced on pavement I could get him buy about 1 length through 1st gear. DON'T let off the gas!! Ever.. lol clutch fast, and keep it pinned. If you can grab the whole shot, you're probably not slow enough to make the difference, at least I wasn't. is your banshee completely stock without exhaust? PIPE IT!! Get some vforce3 reeds, find the sponsor on the site called "Herr Jugs Racing" Give kevin a call and tell him you want a port job, if you're really feeling like u wanna break the bank, then get a 4 mill. It'll run you about 1350 bucks for the 4 mill kit with a chariot head. Grab the 4 mil, get a port job, reeds, and exhaust and you're going to be running somewhere in the 70-80 (depends on pipes, carbs, etc) horsepower range.. A yfz450 is running about 42-45?. Do the math... lol spend 1400 bucks and run "almost" twice the horse the yfz is putting out. Another trick you can do that might help you out, is grab the smallest set of tires you can, and race til you hit top end. It's not cheating if you win right?

Thanks. Just because I'm curious, do you know why they don't use the reed stops? The stock reeds do, why not the VF 3? Also, you guys have me set. Ordering them on Friday. Thanks

Thanks for the replies. Last question.. I'm looking on ebay for these.. I find a bunch of vforce 3 delta "Packages" but I don't see any reed stops in them. . Are they just not including them? Do I need them as well? For instance here. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NIB-Yamaha-Banshee-V-Force-III-Reeds-Reed-Cages-Assemb-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5192c32823QQitemZ350354614307QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories I also see others with the reed stops.. I'll be the first to admit I have NO idea what I'm doing with reeds. 4 stroke kinda guy. Recently got into the whole 2 stroke thing.

Well I was thinking about Boyesen Power Reeds, or a stock replacement, and of course Vforce.. but what kind of differences will I see? noticeable? or just another company claiming bolt on hp. Like I said, I've never been able to witness the difference between stock/vforce reeds myself. I also heard that they wear fast.. How "Fast" is fast? What kind of life can I expect to get from them?

Worth it? Thinking about purchasing a set, however I'm not sure if they'll be worth the money. Never used em, never ridden a shee with a set on them. Any thoughts? I would get the full works, cage included

4 mill, ported for Gold Series SST pipes. Cool head Stock carbs 1450 ft elevation 60-80 degrees Need to rebuild carbs. Need main and needle jet size. Stock airbox. (Pre filter screen on filter) Also, I noticed that my banshee leaks fuel when it's not running. Float setting? or maybe the new needle will fix that? It also comes out pretty fast when it's running while on two wheels, or while driving on a steep angle. I was going to post this in exhaust/jetting, but I figured it'd be more appropriate here due to the fact that i'm having an issue with my carbs as well. Move if necessary. TY.

okay. Well thanks a lot. Makes sense. I'm sure yamaha never forgot to put it in Appreciate the input. I didn't want to put this thing together wrong. Just in case it was important or anything.

Hmmm... Well what's weird is #17 doesn't seem to mesh up to anything, it doesn't seal anything, and to my knowledge it's completely useless.. lol my clutch hasn't been apart, yet it didn't have this. but after looking at it's location, I can't see a purpose it serves.

Clymer Manual. Page 156. Bottom of page part #17. The o-ring in the backside of the clutch basket wasn't there when I tore my motor apart. How important is this? Never seemed to have any problems without it. Apparently my banshee never came with one, maybe the motor got hungry for it. ha

Great. Well I appreciate everyone's input. I'm going to stick with the SST's for now. Thanks for all the replies. And thanks kevin for replying. Little weird talking to you on the phone and seeing your reply in my forum topic. Nice not gettin dicked around, and having closer communication with the guy doing the work I'm paying him for. I was going to do a completely stock rebuild, but when I found this site I started rippin the shee apart and sending parts across the US for porting. This site is evil.

Thanks. Yeah I just wanted to hear some opinions about the pipes, and see what everyone else thought about the carbs. I don't really have the money for the new exhaust, let alone new carbs. but I'm still considering it. It's weird, seems like I can dump more money into the shee then I make. It's like magic... Can a set of pro circuits run on the power core silencers? or do I need to get a full exhaust? How much are carbs runnin anyways for a set of 33/34s?

Sending my cylinders to HJR tomorrow. Getting the 4 mill, coolheads, porting. I'm curious though as to a good mid pipe. Kevin told me a good mid pipe are pro circuits, and I'm now contemplating getting rid of the SST's I have for a set of PCs. Here's the problem.. I really really love the SST pipes. They seemed to be an amazing pipe for my ride style and pulled like hell. My buddies banshee has a fresh rebuild, and it's stock with nothing but exhaust. He's got a set of Gold series (original) and I can take him in a drag and through the woods with 93 lbs of compression. lol. Anyways, I don't want to ditch what I'm getting from my SST's for a set of PCs that might now be what I want. I want a good mid pipe, as most of my riding is done on the trails. How's the bike going to come out with SST porting vs PC porting? Also, will I be able to use powercore silencers on the PCs? or are they not going to match up? Carb question.. Can I use stock carbs on this bike after it's rebuild? +4 timing Porting to SST exhaust/PC Coolhead 4 mill Or do I need to upgrade my carbs? Thanks.

Kinda look like DG's. http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=443901&store=Main&catId=&productId=p443951&leafCatId=&mmyId=500193 Perhaps a different year though? I duno, kinda hard to tell.

Ha, thanks a lot for the info. I had a feeling it couldn't be done, but figured i'd check here to be sure. Thanks for the heads up. However, anodizing doesn't scratch like you might be thinking.. At least my work hasn't yet. The stuff I have done has been roughly the same durability as a maglight, or something close. If it does scratch it at least won't chip like paint. Appreciate the info though.

First off, I'm tearing my motor down and would like to anodize the cylinders. I'm interested in doing them, but I need to know if they're aluminum (to be sure) and also if it's casted. Also, if I anodize the cylinders, I'll end up anodizing them inside and out. There really isn't a way around that that I'm aware of. However, the thickness of anodizing is roughly .0001 - .003mm. So i'm not worried about it, and I'll also be doing it before sending it out to be bored and honed. so I shouldn't have to worry about that much. Basically, what alloy are the cylinders? and swingarm? Removing the "film" is about 950% X harder then coating it, so I only want to do it once, and I certainly don't want to try it without getting some info. I was also thinking about doing my cases, since they'll be apart, but I'm not sure on that yet. Depends on the type of alloy and if I can get a bigger tank of acid. Has anyone seen cylinders anodized? TLDR: Can I anodize my cylinders and swingarm?

You don't want a project bike.. Judging by what I seen in the pics I'd pass on it. As excited as you may be for a new bike, best thing you can do is wait. You'll find another for a good buy. I was in the SAME boat you were. I found a banshee that needed a few parts, thinking nothing of it. I ended up getting convinced to sit on it, and find a better one. Unless you're getting a GREAT buy, I'd pass. You'd be amazed at what you'll find when you get it home.. Take a really good look at it if you do decide to buy it. Check all of the bushings, bearings, tie rods, etc. Shake it back and forth while you're on it and see if you feel any play anywhere. It looks like the headlights are brand new.. Ask if/why? Try to check if the frame is straight as well. Looks like it was rolled, or hit something to say the least. Ask him how bad the roll was. lol Good luck! I picked my shee up for 2600 bucks.. (IMO, sit on it until you find something better)

So.. I just got done talking to an extremely sharp mechanic. He had told me a few things.. Breaking in a motor is as technical as it sounds. You literally BREAK things in to fit right. Wearing down highspots, etc. Already knew this though.. But he did give me some good advice.. He said to run it pretty hard if it's just a new top end, but since i'm getting new bearings, crank, piston rings, porting and headwork, that i shouldn't try to beat on it too hard. Told me to try to find a good happy middle between gettin on it, and being gentle. I want to seat the rings, but I don't want to be too hard on the new internals. He said the best thing I could do is take it really easy for the first 10-15 minutes, and easy into getting on it hard. Should allow any wearing to occur during taking it easy, and the rings should be seated shortly after. So basically, take it really easy for a bit, then get on it hard. Of course stopping in between the two to retorque anything that may be loose, and to let the motor cool. Any thoughts on his suggestion?

Thanks for the replies. I really appreciate all of the input.

What exactly does that indicate? I know the little light brown ring is good, but what if it's not? maybe thicker/darker.