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Posts posted by fleury_xlt
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Hello,
Unfortunately i’ve broke my cases on my Banshee and was wondering if anyone have any input on Driveline cases ? Does it worth the price ?
Same alloy, casting method as OEM ?
If you have experience with these, I would like hear it please !
Thabks
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57 minutes ago, special06shee said:
Wtf is this jibberish?!?!
LMAO it's French, but you can answer in english with no problem !
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9 minutes ago, ClaudeMachining said:
Oui.
Tu fais du drag? Le c14 est oxygené, des que tu ouvres le contenant, le temps est compté et c'est plus difficile a jetter, oublis pas ca. Ca serait bcp mieux du 110 ou du 100LL qui coute pas mal moins cher. Tu peux m'envoyer un message par FB, mon nom est Claude Perron.
Message Facebook (Messenger) envoyé !
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Just now, ClaudeMachining said:
Salut, tu es sur la limite a 155psi pour du 91.
Pourquoi du c14 a la place du vp110?? Tu as une aéroport près de chez vous, tu peux aussi rouler au 100LL (c'est ce que je roule a 155psi).
J'habite pas loin de chez vous, ne te gêne pas si tu as besoins d'aide.
Salut !
Merci pour la réponse, je m'attendais pas à me faire répondre en français :D. La raison du C-14 ; c'est tout ce qui était disponible chez Équipement Villeneuve ! Alors, suis-je mieux d'en rajouter 25% (C-14) pour être sûr ?
Merci !
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*** 0.051'' squish
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Hi everybody,
Just finished my 472cc Super Cub built. I need to know how much octane gas to put in it. Here the specs :
- 155 Psi on each cylinders
- 0.0051'' squish
- 27cc domes
- Timing +4
- Fuel and oil ratio 40:1 mix
- Clean up port
- Elevation : Around 300m above the sea
I've just bought some C14 to mix it with 91 octane pump gas. I'm kind of scare to run 91 octane with the specs above.
Waiting for you help guys,
Thanks
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I've just putted out the reed cage and saw that the carbon fiber petal was broken in half. Time to put V-Force !! Problem solved, thanks everybody !
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If they are aftermarket carbs try swapping carbs,,do a pressure test on motor could have an air leak or coolant getting into cylinder,I have built and tuned 100s of motors it's very rare but I had a flywheel issue that left me pulling my hair out with similar symptoms you describe
Yeah an air leak could be a good idea, when I start it, the engine is reving really fast on one cylinder. That is weird !!
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Try swapping plug wires see if problem follows - Done
The spark plug are both ''brown chocolate''
And finally i've checked the float inside the carburator and they work properly.
Stil have no idea about this problem, any other suggestions guys ?
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Hi guys, today I was drag racing with my friend when sudently my Banshee start running on one cylinder. I've checked the spark plug, coil + cap (interchanged the spark cap on the plug), cleaned the carburator, checked the reed valve and i'm at 130PSI on each cylinder. The gas flow on each line of the carb, the air filter is clean. I've tried to put directly gas in the cylinder that is not working, without results. So basicly I have AIR, FIRE and GAS and the quad is not working properly. Really confused about that. Any ideas ?
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raise clip ONE position.
then add ful on main. try 280/290/300
if still laggy. buy TOOMEY jet kit and install the needles they offer. it will run excellent after that.
dont overrev too far on accell. if your in overrev on the pipes and shift they can be unloaded and not come back on right away. shift right after the power seems to drop then train yourself to shift just before that happens. shift at the peak of the power.. fmf fattys have a distinctive flat spot on top they wil still rev but will fall off on power. t-5's is very distinctive. its easier to train with those pipes..
Thanks a lots !!!!!!!!
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I did the shift star mod on mine, but his quad is really hard to shift. The transmission on my banshee is stock, and it shift 5x better than my friend's banshee. Are there any internal parts that could be broken ?
And the electric problem ? What could it be ?
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If you dont need the travel I ran a +8 swing arm with the shock direct to the swing arm (no Link) a moved the top shock mount. I tested it first before mounting it by putting a 2x4 under the frame rails and rested the shock under it. I weight 225# it didnt cost anything and worked good.
Thanks for the idea !
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is it missing? Or just sluggish
Sluggish
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YFZ shocks will not fit, as they are about 4" too long, and use a different style lower mount. Raptor shocks are the exact same spring rate as a stock banshee rear. 5.4kg/mm. The cheapest option would be to get a heavier Eibach spring, and not mess with the valving of the shock at all. I stock them, and they are $109.00ea. You can either install it yourself, or I can do the installation for an addition $25, including return shipping.
Thanks for your help ! I'll check at that !!
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The most affordable thing would be getting your stock rear shock set up for your longer swingarm and weight.
Hit up Matt with So Cal Suspension Systems.....only guy to go through for suspension stuff IMO. http://www.socalsuspensionsystems.com/
His name on here is MattSCESC
There are no shock like YFZ 450 or Raptor that will fit and will be stiffer ?
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The banshee transmission is less than ideal. In face its no where near perfect in its stock form. They are difficult (somewhat) to shift gears compared to other quads. And yes....neutral is a real challenge to find.......its just how they are.
You can do the shift star mod (which is on the forum here) where you pull the star off and grind the edges to a smaller less sharp point (dont do it to neutral)....it will allow the shift star to rotate the shift arm easier over it......i did it to my bike and it works really well...
I did the shift star mod on mine, but his quad is really hard to shift. The transmission on my banshee is stock, and it shift 5x better than my friend's banshee. Are there any internal parts that could be broken ?
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Hi! I've got my brand new +4 swingarm on my Shee. I'm 230 pounds and 6'2. The stock suspension is too soft for me. which one do you guys use ? I want something affordable please !
Thanks
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Hi, my friend just bough a 2004 banshee. The transmission is hard to shift up and down. The neutral is also really hard to find. Is that just the shift star, the fork inside the case, or a problem related with the gears ?
Secondly, the light didn't work full time. He claim that the throttle get stuck (And the TORS have been removed) when the lighting problem happen. Is that a resistance, or a wire that ground on the frame ??
Thanks for your help !
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needle postion,richen it up all the way first,if nothing lean it out all the way.I do big jumps first to see if im heading in the rite direction then fine tune.IMO a trail shifted bike should run a rich needle setting,when your letting off to shift the rich clip postion holds the needle out of the pocket longer allowing the cylinder to recoupe fuel before you let it have it again,just a thought
Thanks ! I'll try that this weekend. That's one of the only thing I didn't try, and that's sound good !
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Anyone please?
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Could be the clutch slipping some.
Does it sound like it revs up a bit right after you shift?
No ! My clutch is a brand new F.A.S.T racing with heavy duty spring and it's adjusted right !
Thanks for your suggestion !!
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Hi, I have a 2006 Banshee, Pro circuit pipe, shaved head .020, K&N + open box. I have a 270 main jet + 27.5 pilot jet and i'm 400ft. over sea. Plugs are brown chocolate. Carb's are clean and synchronized (With F.A.S.T. Synch tool), Tors removed, air fliter is clean. Air screw at 2¼ turns, needle 3thr clip. Reed's are good. (140 PSI on each side). MY QUESTION IS :
When i'm drag racing : there some lag between shift, then the engine goes ok. The acceleration is strong and the top end too. The lag is around 7000-8000 rpm ( I guest) when i'm ready to shift next speed. But sometime he didn't do it, that's never the same. I'm really confused !! Any Ideas please ?
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Just bought a kit for my 2006 Banshee. I have a F.A.S.T racing clutch with 6 heavy duty spring. The lever was pretty hard to pull with the wire. After i've installed the kit and bleed the line and the master cylinder ( That was pretty easy for me, just remove the perch and pump the slave cylinder with a philips screwdriver as recommended by Streamline (took 5 min))... Wow, I can pull the lever with one or two finger. Awsome, very satisfied, worth the money. Great quality and finish.
Driveline Performance cases
in Product Reviews
Posted
Yes they are pretty nice. Look’s like a brand new product. Cannot find any infos or videos of people who tried them.
They cost a little bit more than OEM cases and was wondering if it worth it. I thought they would be nice with my Cub setup.
Thanks
***Claude, content de voir que tu es encore actif dans le monde des Banshee !