68chevyc10355

When I do a compression test I leave the other spark plug in and hold the throttle wide open while kicking. A leak down is not hard, but if the crank seal is leaking it is going to extensive work to replace. I use a 12 to 15 inch radiatior hose between the two exhaust posts and pvc fittings to go in the carb boots. Expansion plugs can also be used and aren't that expensive.

Take the clutch side cover off and then do a leak down test. This will tell you if the crank seal is bad. Also, for a motor to have that low of compression in both cylinders something major would have had to have happened to both cylinders/pistons. It would have a hard time starting with 90 psi, but if you are getting readings of 20/45 I would consider checking your compression with another tester because something doesn't sound right. Once you have completed the leak down and determined whether or not the seals are leaking, take the top end off to see what the problem is there.

Do you guys take paddles and normal tires?

I made a mistake, I actually have 55 pilots. Also, the fuel screws are 1.5 turns out.

I live about an hour south of Indy and am definitely interested in riding in the spring. I have never been to Badlands, whats type of riding is there?

I took my stock carbs off and put a set of 30mm oko carbs on. I adjusted the floats and haven't had problems with the bowls running dry. My question is whether or not it is common to have to use choke to start the shee after it has sat for a while. Once it has warmed up it will start first kick everytime without choke. The only reason I am asking is because with the stockers it would start first kick warm or cold without the choke on. I have 52 pilots in and a 165 main (I am working my way down on the main but wanted to start rich) with the clip set in the middle slot of the needle. Mods are in my sig. My elevation is just shy of 1000 ft and the temperature has been in the mid 40's to 50's.

Forgot to add something...welcome to the hq

It sounds like you may have an air leak. Do a leak down test to see if this is the case. Also, do a compression check to get a rough idea of what kind of shape your top end is in.

Do you have a stock head, or if you have a cool head what size domes do you have? Also, how big is the gap that you are referring to?

Was the compression at 80 psi immediately after rebuild? (No running time at all?) Also, are you sure you have the correct pistons and rings.

The cracked intakes are definitely a problem. This will cause the motor to run lean, and if it has been running lean very long there is a good chance that your compression will be low. Also, if you ride in an area that is dusty, sandy or muddy, those tears will allow those particles to get into the motor because they aren't passing through the filter. The leak must be of decent size because a slightly lean motor will tend to rev. In your case, it sounds like it is so lean that it doesn't want to run, with the added problem of possibly low compression. Check the compression, it may be time for a rebuild. You definitely want to get new intakes and I would suggest ditching the boost bottle for the stock crossover tube, as the boost bottle caused the same problem for me and many others.

I am looking for some advice on a setup for some county fair drags for a 350 and below class. The distance will range from 180 to 200 feet typically, and will be run on dirt that seems to have quite a bit of clay. Sometime soon I am going to get different exhaust and will send my cylinders back to HJR for a heavy dune port (probably will run CPI or snipers depending on how they turn out). I am hoping for around upper 60’s to 70 hp when done. This is my only fourwheeler so I will not being turning it into a drag bike, I just want to do decent at the drags and really well against the occasional 450. I am not sure where to go with tires. I have skat traks, razrs, and access to flat track tires, but can buy others if need be. Should I strap my suspension down? I was considering 18 or 19 cc domes with plus 6 timing or so (my altitude is about 900 ft and I will run 113 oxy fuel). For gearing I was thinking a 15 or 16t front sprocket and leaving in 2nd. Also, I weigh 170 lbs. Anyone who has already played with this kind of setup please guide me in the right direction.

I did not have the clutch side or flywheel side covers off. I was using windex(bubbles up just like soapy water). I am at school and wont have a chance to look into it more until the weekend.

Sorry that was a picture of the buck (the camera has the wrong date but is was the winter of 2008/2009). This is a picture of the shed. http://s1125.photobucket.com/albums/l584/68chevyc10355/?action=view&current=IMG00178-20100108-1154.jpg&newest=1

This is a shed to the buck that I got on camera in 2008 (I have about 100 pics of him). He wasn't seen last year but someone in the area saw a buck of similar size this year. My brother and I have gotten a few bucks in the 140 area on camera this year, and the activity is just now starting to pick up. http://s1125.photobucket.com/albums/l584/68chevyc10355/?action=view&current=SUNP0056.jpg#!oZZ5QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1125.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl584%2F68chevyc10355%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DSUNP0114.jpg%26

A couple of months before I freshened up the topend it held 6 to 5 psi for 13 min. Its obviously dropped so I just wanted to get as much feedback as possible. But I guess the present leakdown could be worse due to something that got tore apart when I put new rings in such as the base gasket, crossover tube, carb boots or head.

Any numbers on how hard they run for the stock stroke?

I guess I dont know enough about how big of an air leak it takes before I have to start worrying about problems. I ride it often and therefore dont want to have to do a leakdown after every ride, if that makes a difference. Thats why I am worrying about if the problem will get worse and I may not catch it in time(typically does a small leak turn into a big one, and if so how long does it take to get to the point of worrying? Once again it leaks from 6 to 5 psi in 2 min). All I know is that I want to do the least amount possible and still be safe for now AND in the near future. Dont know if any of this makes a difference to everyone's opinions. How often do you guys do a compression test and leak down?

I have looked at it from both sides. I figured it would be just fine for now, but WHEN it gets worse, I don't want to have to wonder whether I will catch it in time before a cylinder goes down. Im gonna go with your advice because the whole reason I asked this was for piece of mind. I just want to go out and be able to ride it like I stole it and not half ass ride it because of worry. I only put new rings in and did not have the cases separated, though I guess the crank seals could have lost their seal. Guess Ill have to spend some quality time with the shee this weekend and see what I can figure out. Thanks for your input.

wouldnt hurt to do a compression check while your at it

I wouldnt think that a stuck float would cause it to rev, if anything it would fall on its face because of running rich. Revving is usually caused by a lean condition, but you said the leak down was great. Sounds like it could be a stuck carb slide or the crossover tube between the carbs is missing or not on right.

Actually to get an insane amount of power out of it you need to put the cam out of a small block chevy in it I dont know the most but I know without a doubt they you dont put a 7mm spacer plate to get a 4 mill set up to run correctly if at all, figured id throw out some complete ignorance as well

ok thanks...do you mean dropping to 2 psi from 6 or dropping from 6 psi to 4 though

I just did a leak down and it dropped from 6 psi to 5 psi in 2 minutes. Every little bit I could hear a little gurgle of air leaking, but am having a hard time pin pointing where it is coming from even using windex or soapy water. I know some of you guys will run yours even if it drops slightly, but didnt know if this was pushing the issue or not. So, do you guys think its safe to run or what would you do? Also, does anyone know what kind of pressure is in the crankcase while the motor is running. Thanks

Send it off to get ported. Also, switch to t5s, CPIs or a better exhaust than the t6 for ported motors, but it also depends on the type of riding you do...what is done to your friends?