bholmes

Nice, mine are KR Tuned, thing walled stainless headers back to dual carbonfiber cans that look very similar to yours....i'd post a pic if i could figure out how to shrink them down LOL

I don't know anything about the 2 into 1 carb set ups. I'm personally not a fan of them, but iv'e never owned one. But from what I read they are harder to tune and get it to run like a 'shee should. I myself would invest in a used set of carbs or new ones if ya have the money and go back the dual carbs. Are the plugs new/clean? Make sure one's not fouled before you get to far along.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=120036 There's a link on a DIY timing plate mod. Be sure to click on the pics in AKheathen's link. It will show you how he modded his timing plate to get more than 4deg advance for FREE!

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=120036 There's how one of the guys on the forum did his own from a stock timing plate. Make sure to click on the link to his photobucket and it's got pics of it. I *think* (correct me if I'm wrong guys) that Advancing the timing will beef up your bottom end and retarding it will help out the top end. Of course one comes at the sacrifice of the other. Also I'm not sure which (retarding?) but changing the timing will make it less prone to detonation if you're having problems with that.

No prob! I'd been looking for all that info for weeks and already had some of it so I thought this would be a great place to compile it for other users. I'm glad it's been of use!

Not to get off topic, but what cans are on your kawi ninja there tecate? I have a zx10 and pretty similar cans. Mine are KR Tuned, I just don't know alot of people who run them.

Glad you were good shape! Nothin like a happy ending

Where are you located and what color ya lookin for?

Make sure ya have fresh plugs in it. Also if you pulled the carbs apart at the same time, make sure you have the slides in right. It's easy to do and will make them run like crap. The guy that had mine before me did that (that's how I got it for a warrior on straight trade). But as far as the slides go, just make sure the cut away in the slide is facing the air filter.

I agree with that!! My shee with just pipes and jetting would beat up on my friends uncorked TRX450R. But as soon as you throw some turns and terrain in there it's all over.

I understand you pain but sometimes that's the nature of the old two bangers. Until you get everything just right it's alot of tinkering and breaking down. If you want an odd motor do something like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/82-Kawasaki-KZ750-CSR-KZ-750-TWIN-KZ750-M1-MOTOR_W0QQitemZ370329269222QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item56395833e6#ht_1397wt_1165 It's got hp in the mid 70's, revs out to 9k rpm and would be killer reliable. It's prob a bit on the heavy side, but it would just be fun to build something odd like that.

I did not know that. I do know you can get crank pins with the rod rebuild kits. http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=CR178&store=Main&catId=&productId=p147893&leafCatId=&mmyId=3165 But i've never dealt with pullin a banshee crank apart, just my YZ and specing banshee cranks. No to thread jack so the reason to weld the cranks on banshees is just to keep those outter webs from spinning? I assumed it was from the fact of how hard it would be to ballance a bazillion piece crank LOL.

If you want a stock crank that's a time bomb just to get it running I have one that's on the loose end of spec I'll send ya if you pay me shipping. PM me if you want it.

You could just throw them out side in your garbage can....what's your address again?

Drill through like 01banch said and weld the nut on the other side if you don't want to have to worry about it. What I did on mine was bore the hole out big enough to put a nut in the frame and then weld it up. Doin it like 01banch said will keep you from having to use a welder though if you don't weld or don't have access to a welder.

not so sure about the muratic acid. I don't think it would touch the aluminum it'll just eat at your steel sleeve. I'd just go at it with a descent sandpaper/emory cloth in a cross hatch pattern and try to break it up and then get you a hone to run through it and see how well it cleans up. I did something similar on my YZ490 once, but when the piston melted down the ring seized and scuffed the walls pretty good and I ended up having to bore it.

+1 for the 4mil cub, a good set of pipes and carbs and some velcro to hold you to the seat! http://www.trinityracing.com/prod_cheetahcub.html

As far as rebuilding a crank goes, I've done it. Not on a banshee, but on a YZ490. It's a pain in the butt for all that it is. It's just you can't get remanufactured 490 cranks that easily. Price wise though, if you put all new bearings, cheapest you can find, and new crank pin and big end bearings and rod you will have almost as much in a stock crank and stil have all the labor as you would in a remanufactured unit from wiseco or hotrods. I'm not afraid of a used crank if it specs out right. You'll need a feeler gauge and dial indicator to check your tollerances and something to set the crank on to check it's run-out values. The values for crank spec can be found in the banshee manual posted under "useful links" at the top of the mod/repair forum. I am going to use a used crank in my machine, i paid 210 for a stroker crank shipped to my door from ebay from a reputable seller and then checked it's specs when i got it. It speced on the tight side of the specification tolerances so I'm thinkin I should be good. That's just my cheap ass 2cents though.

JB weld actually holds oil in my super bike. I laid it down this past summer and cracked part of the case and it would blow oil out. I JB welded it up good and haven't had a problem since. I've prob put 5k miles on it since. For me the trick it not just patching the hole or what ever, but smearing it all over. The more area I have it bonded too the less likely I am too have a leak. It may be oil vs fuel like Papa said though. Fuel is much less viscous than oil and would therefore leak much more easily.

Depends on your mechanical ability. I just picked up a tranny for under a hundered bucks shipped off ebay. You can easily dump 1k into a used motor and still come up with one having a few miles on the tranny. I'm not sure what a shop would charge you though.

Depends on how much money you have and what you want to do. If you stick with a 4mil you don't have to clearance the crank case or anything, which is nice.

Thanks for the advice on a starting point, it's actually what I was guessing it would be around. I was thinkin 320-340 range, but I don't know banshees that well. No I don't have the TORs kit, nor do I currently have the money for one unfortunately. Also I plan on doing +4 on the ignition will this cause any problems with jetting? I don't imagine it would hurt it any. Thanks again for the input.

I am trying to find a baseline to start tuning my jetting. I don't have the machine together, but I know what I'll be running and have all my parts now. It will be a toomey 1 into 2 intake with no air box, stock carbs, stock reed cages ported, an aggressive trail ported cylinder, 4mil stroker with 65.5 pistons so 390cc, running stock heads, LRD pipes and silencers (similar to T5 in power characteristics I was told by an engine builder). I'll be running high octane pump gas mixed 40:1 at an elevation of 866ft above sea level and the temp I expect I'll start tuning at will be around 45deg F. I ride primarily tight woods and hill climbs on the east coast if it makes a difference, so I'm on and off the throttle alot....not sure if that has much to do with the jetting since there's only a couple fuel circuits on these carbs. Thanks for the help in advance!

maybe just being a new clutch? Mine doesnt roll much at all with a new clutch in it, but the clutch works just fine. I attribute it to just having thicker and stickier frictions. Have you tried to ride it yet?

NVR- I just posted a bunch of great links some of which have really useful information regarding porting work. Also ask around, talk to the pros. I've talked to a couple and learned alot just today.