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Walms...This is why many people switch or stop using forums. Some folks tend to get Computer Balls since they have the ability to be anonymous. I like many in here are not experts but have learned a lot from the more emotionally stable guys in here.. I wasn't aware that a slight adjustment to your throttle cable on a PJ was a cardinal sin. From what you described it seems like you have a decent understanding of lean & rich & how the circuits work with each other. Ask yourself a few questions. If you have a certain pilot & have your choke opened up too much and you supposedly have a good idle, why would you lean out your pilot when you obviously were having to make up for a lean pilot by richening your choke adjust? If your choke is open too much and it's running good then you would put a larger pilot, enabling you to close your choke adjust & maintain the same air/fuel mix. If the needle is the primary circuit for midrange, then why change the pilot for a midrange issue? If a "normal" carb has a mechanical idle adjust (screw)...isn't adjusting your idle merely pushing your slide up? Why would a slight pull on your slide from the other end be a substantial no no? Also, if you synch a PJ by adjusting the throttle cable at the cap, why would adjusting the other end "slightly" be a substantial problem? Also, when tuning your idle circuit you use the air screw to gauge your pilot size...not the other way around. You open your air screw until you reach max idle. I then back mine off 1/8 turn. If it is open more than 1.5-2 turns than put a smaller pilot. If open less than 1 turn than try larger pilot. It shouldn't take you too long too find step by step jetting instructions in here to verify this process. You shouldn't just keep throwing jets/$$$ at it when your air screw will tell you exactly what you need. I do agree that if your choke/idle is opened too much then you need a different pilot (larger) & I do agree that your throttle cable shouldn't be your primary idle adjustment. I'm sure there are some actual gurus in here that may agree with "mr happy" about adjusting your cable. I definately think you need to do a proper tune 1st. Without knowing any Kawasaki oem mods to your PJ's, other mods & elevation and temp...the best anybody can do is give general advice and tips. Being as a 35 pilot is as small as you can go...unless you are running at 6000' + elevation & 90+ degs, it's probably too small to begin with. If at sea-1000' & 70deg you should probably be around stock, probably 1 size smaller & go from there. Higher elevations/warmer climates = smaller jets to match your thinner air & lower elevations/cooler climates = larger jets to match the more dense air. It's hard to tell from this side of the computer but it sounds like you may need to start closer to stock & tune with airscrew from there. Stock PJ specs are 152main / 55pilot / CEGneedle & 16mm float height. Your pilot & needle are substantially leaner than this but I have know idea if Kawasaki modified these for your bike. 1 last thing, if your 34mm PJs were not the stock size carbs then you'll have a hell of a time adjusting them enough to get an idle. Don't trust everything others say or me either since some rocket scientist called me a "tool". There's enough advise on here to prove things out & make sure it makes sense before you do it.

Have you figured it out yet? Sorry just caught this post...will give you steps on Monday. Sorry to make you wait but I gotta run. 1st, some questions I didn't see anybody ask you. What is your elevation, temperature, exhaust mods, airbox mods, porting, find specs for stock pilot, needle & main. From this info we can establish stock baseline & adjustments needed. Small tip for now...only use idle/choke knob to fine tune. Once carbs are synched, use the main throttle cable adjustment at your throttle to find idle.

Albuquerque is aprox a mile high depending on where you ride (5000-5500) & gets pretty cold (snow) in winter & 90's in summer. Clovis is 4300 ft elevation & probably 10 deg warmer than Albuquerque.

Welcome to PJ carbs. Mine drove me nuts until I dialed them in. It's impossible for any of us to give the absolute fix but here are a few things to check. Go for the easy adjust no money items 1st. Check your choke. On the PJ's your choke is your only fuel/air adjustment. Clockwise is more air. If all the way counter clockwise then try turning clockwise to increase your air at idle. I mark mine with white-out so I can turn them equally. See if it makes a diff on your black plugs. Most likely you need to drop a size or 2 on your pilot though. Do 1 thing at a time. Even though the Pilot/Needle & Main are diff circuits they do affect the next circuit. Once your idle seems good (steady), try lowering your needle clip 1 position. This will increase your fuel from 1/4 to 3/4ish. If better but still sputtering, raise again. If still no good then you may need to go to a shorter or thinner tapered needle. You can find a needle chart on Sudco's website in their parts pdf catalog. I would only do this after your pilot is dialed in because it does affect the mid throttle too. Once pilot & needle are set, then address your main. Sputtering = too lean & bog = too rich. Once all is dialed in, use your choke/air/fuel knobs to fine tune for idle for minor elevation & temperature changes. Obviously before any of this, check for: air leaks, float height & unclogged jets 1st. Hope this helps.

*Since I often talk to myself when I'm jetting...I'll respond to my own post. Found my idle (I was being stupid). Still ironing out my bogs & sputters. Mid-High is pretty close but would like to lessen my bog when throttle is 1st cracked. Only bogs once 1st gear is engaged and barely rolling. Just beyond that it's OK. I know that can be a common problem but I won't rest until It goes away. I may pass out but I won't rest! I'll respond w/final settings once I figure it out for those other high elevation riders w/mods. *Remember, there's nothing wrong w/talking to yourself...but you should be concerned if you keep losing the arguement! Later

16mm from mounting surface to bottom most part of float. This is with the float "resting" in closed position. 16mm = 5/8" (aprox)

1st Banshee. Very experienced jetting 2 strokes but this shee is giving me fits. I'm sure it's primarily due to it having 34mm Keihin PJ's. I'm sure somewhere in here somebody has given some advice on similar mods at this elevation. Primary problem is that I can't get an idle. I've read that PJ's can have this problem. I've just about decided to give up on the idle & just tune for no bog off idle & no sputtering or bog at mid & high but wanted to give it 1 more try. Current known mod's are 4mil, 421 big bore, T5's, no airbox w/K&N's, Keihin 34mm PJ's. Was jetted at 300ft elev (dunes) with a 170 main & 52 pilot. I'm assuming it was jetted correctly & going from there. Bike is now at 5500+ elevation @ 50-60deg. May eventually go to a PWK or ??? but want to see what I can do w/PJ's 1st. Currently have a 155 Main, 40 Pilot (tried 42,45,48,52) , CEL needle on 2nd clip from top. Any legit advice would be greatly appreciated. So far my opinion on what amounts to a dual Air/Fuel mixture (choke & air screw) on these PJ's is that its a very bizarre design. Thx...