spyder

They arent as bad as everyone thinks they are.. yeah first and second can rip pretty hard, but the secret to riding one, even on a track. Is that you gotta stay in a higher gear so you get the low end grunt of the motor, and the bottom end speed without hitting the power band till you need it on a straight. I just got back from riding another track rental day with some friends not 10 minutes ago.. and I rode the entire intermediate track out this way in 4th gear.. I NEVER LEFT 4TH! Yeah the top end of 4th will get me anywhere I would ever need to go even on a superx track. But the bottom end power is where its at on these motors..

Sorry about that man.. I thought I put it in there. Bike is located in Rochester, NY

SO.. Heres the stats.. 1989 CR500r All orig plastics (some scratchs, no stitches) New stock bore wiseco piston New Hot Rods connecting rod & hardware New Moose Racing crank bearings New Factory clutch plates and springs New oil seals and gaskets inside and out. New and spare spark plugs New Dunlop Intermediate rear tire New FMF Gnarly header pipe New FMF PowerCore silencer New fork seals (forks rebuilt) New air purge valves on the forks New Moose 2 finger easypull clutch lever (not the inline crap) New 2 finger front brake lever New grips New chain slider The bike has only been run 32:1 mixture since Ive owned it for maximum protection. 93 Octane and Maxima Castor 927 2 stroke oil. Case is also running Synthetic 10w/40. Turn the gas on, tip the bike to make sure the float bowl is full, 6-8 REAL SLOW prime kicks to fill the cyl.. 1 MAYBE 2 real kicks and she fires after being stone cold for 3 weeks. This bike WILL stand up in 5th gear with a twist of a wrist, and will come up in every gear. I did not race this bike, just did some track rental days with some friends. Needs: Swingarm bearings, which run about $45. The kick starter spring needs to get wound one turn tighter One missing bolt for the Silencer (which Ill probably replace anyways) The front header needs 2 exhaust springs and the lower mount put on (which Ill end up doing its not an issue) Please e-mail me at jdoty53@yahoo.com if interested.. I have pictures I took during the rebuild and have pic's of damn near everything if you need proof of what parts I put in the motor. Asking $2300 or trade for a decent newer CRF 250 or KX250F. The bike is worth this all day long. Here she is..

Electrical is good, great spark.. no air leaks.

What bore are you runnin? what filter? Ill check that connecting hose out and se if theres any pin holes in it.. But this quad is definitely acting like its starving for fuel. Ill have to play with the jetting with the numbers you guys are throwin at me to see what will work on this turd. Round about how many turns from closed are those idle screws usually set at? Just so I have an even base point to start with.. Thanks guys

Thats the kinda info I was lookin for.. Thanks man. Ill snag some jets and run it.. Also Ive delt with ALOT of carbs and havent seen any like these, on the outside of each carb theres a brass flat head screw with a brass lock nut on it. This is the idle screw on these correct? Theres no spring behind it, just a rounded off edge.. For some ungodly reason this thing was converted to twist throttle too..

Now this is a badass truck..!!! Heres my 03 Chevy RCLB Stock 4.8L V8 K&N intake Corvette servo straight pipe after the cat, side dump in front of the passenger rear tire 3/5 drop, all belltech Plan on droppin a procharger in there when my shit gets straight, here she is.

Im working on a '94 Banshee for a buddy of mine because he doesnt do motor work or tuning, and doesnt do this kinda thing at all. I do.. BUT Im not a banshee head. So Im comin to you guys. So heres the list, the way I picked it up. '94 Banshee Bored .030 over (brand new) T5 pipes Boyesen reeds (brand new) 270 mains Stock pilots Havent touched the mixture screws yet Uni air filter with extra breather holes cut in the box. The end result?? 1) Idles pretty smooth, but a little high. 2) Has NO throttle responce. The second I touch the throttle it either falls on its face, or has no powerband rev. Im at sea level, temp is running in the mid 50's lately. My question to you guys is.. If any of you are running a similar set up, what are your carb settings so I have a base point to start from. Pilot and main size, mixture screw settings from closed, spark plug and gap, intake set-up, and what reeds your running. Any info besides what I find in the search bar would be sweet. If someone wants to chime in and save me some time *high five* to you. I cant drive the damn thing because someone else play'd mechanic and pulled this thing apart (when it was re-built), now the clutch doesnt want to work correctly. I have great spring back pull but it acts like theres a plate or 2 missing in the basket. I can deal with that.. But I need it to rev and run correctly first before this thing goes out. The top end from what I can see is all done correctly and it fires right up, its just totally useless after that. Thanks in advance guys Pix of the fog machine Its actually .030 not .0030 lol dont ask.....