banshee_phil

that is exactly why i got on here! $100 sounded too good to be true...and i know all about getting what you pay for (trust me) thats why i havent bought anything yet and havent done anything to the cylinders...they are at 64.5mm and need to be pushed to 65mm...and ported well now that i have a good idea of what i need and a rough cost, all i need to do is contact a builder and get it started! thanks for all the input!

i will check to see if the vent tubes are clogged or not. if i remember right, the tub sat right on top of the motor case...maybe i need a longer tube and hang it higher up...i will try that. i put a screw in the tube for a while to slow the spewing...but i was afraid it would hurt it somehow so i took it out.

question.... if i opt to just go ahead and buy the cool head and 4mm domes...i wouldnt need to port the cylinder because i wouldnt be running the spacer plate correct? but i would theoretically want to port them anyways purely for performance and not functionality right? i am considering a new head more and more as i think about it. guy said he would charge $100 to port and polish cylinders and put on the flow bench to match they flow the same he is cutting me a little break on labor because of my previous sobbing story about having sent the cylinders off earlier and having to buy two more cylinders. plus he builds several of my buddy's 4stroke drag and GNCC bikes. he guarantees all his work so he says...

well i dont know if he builds 2strokes or not....i do know that he builds 4stroke ATVs and sprint car motor and drag car motors. He used to build snomobiles...which most used to be 2stroke right? anyway all i was having him do was bore my cylinders. he has a flow bench and said he could port my cylinders if i wanted to. like i said idk if he does 2stroke (i havent talked to him much but i will) but he has build some pretty bad 4stoke drag bikes. he is well known in the area for that. he also invented some kind of chain tensioner for QT motors (winged sprint car i think). he has been doing motor work all his life and i trust him with it. but as far as porting...i need to ask him if he does it much on 2strokes...if not ill have to send the cylinders off to someone. random memory...he also built the motor for the fastest honda...what was it...umm...650 (maybe 750?) motorcyle form the 70's i think...built it in the 90's sometime i think...the guy talks so fast its hard to understand him...but he has proof of it all. but anyways... as for my budget...im not sure. i planned on the stroker kit for now just to get motor back together... goal is to buy pipes, carbs, clutch, and adj timing plate by middle of march. i would guess in the $1500 range...its not a professional bike and i dont race it. so im not afraid to run used pipes or used carbs. i will have $670 in motor internals according to bbcmudtruck... $450 for cylinder and case port $100 clutch $300 carbs $250-350 pipes on ebay $100 reeds so i guess that puts up around the $2k mark for now ill prob just do stroker kit, cylinder and case port, clutch, and pipes ($1500-ish) and do carbs and intake by march

here is what the kit has in it.... Brand New Yamaha Banshee 4mm stroker engine package. In this kit you will receive: 1 Hotrods 4mm stroker crankshaft 2 top end bearings 2 795 series Wiseco stroker pistons (includes rings, wrist pins, and c-clips) 1 Complete oil seal kit 1 Complete gasket kit 1 4mm spacer plate $670.00 i will be running a stock head...that is why i asked about cylinder porting. I was reading the post "spacer vs NO for 4mill" and they talked about having to port the lower portion of the port 2mill because of running the spacer plate. i plan on buying clutch and basket...mine is toast and new carbs and pipes my main question was about case porting and cylinder porting. my engine builder is mainly a 4stroke guy...builds race engines i just wanted to get it right the first time as far as porting is concerned as for riding...yes mostly woods and some track and fingers crossed i am hoping that it will at least keep up if not run better

hi there, just so you know my motor is currently torn down. however, before i tore it down, whenever i rode it and i let off of a full throttle, trans fluid would spew out of the vent tube. i had a guy tell me that the right side crank seal was out??? so i replaced it and nothing changed. my question is what would cause this and what can i do about it before i assemble a newly built motor? i would go through about a half quart of trans fluid per ride (several hours)

hi there, long story short...i dated a girl once, he ex-bf was jealous...he drained my coolant on the banshee and i didnt notice. long story short, it went boom in one cylinder and destroyed the crank. so now im in the process of rebuilding the motor. ....(another long story short...dont take your motor to c-tech performance in grand rapids, Michigan...ruined the one good cylinder and then ruined the cylinder that was resleeved and refused to fix it.) but with all that aside, i am now in the market to fix her before spring. I have been eyeballing the 4mm hotrod long rod kits...and i like the idea of it. the kit comes with everything needed to do a complete rebuild. my question is what do i have to do to the cylinder porting and case porting? i have read that the lower area of the port needs to be ported another 2mm down...is that correct? and nothing is needed to the upper area of the port? also i have read on here about case porting...what exactly is that and can i do it or does the machinist porting the cylinders need to do that? and how much material do you cut away? i am also buying an adjustable timing plate...what degrees should i set it at? i will also be looking at buying some pipes and silencers soon...in your opinion should i go with FMF, Toomey, or DC Alien? also, im guessing the stock 26mm carbs wont be enough...what size would be sufficient? 33mm? 35mm? thanks for all your time and input...i just want to be able to keep up with my current gf's stock honda 450R and be able to keep up with the dust from my buddy's built honda 450R

yeah i know...they didnt trim enough off the sleeve for the ports. i called them back today and they want me to ship the cylinder back (i recently moved from there) and they will epoxy (im guessing JB weld) the gap at the bottom of the cylinder. before i mail it back, i am going to take it to a local shop and see what they say. i am also going to look up used cylinders on ebay and see what they cost. and then i think i will just have the machine shop buy me a used one off ebay and i will send them the one that they screwed up and they can have a nice new paper weight. this is so rediculous...4 weeks later and the bike still isnt back together yet...shoulda just bought another running bike for that price!

here are the two together...stock on left side, re-sleeved one on right side. notice how in all the pics you can see the sleeve in the ports...they didnt trim it enough???

sure...here are 3 more

there is a gap between the sleeve and jug...

picture 2

i am thinking this is not good...

jbooker82, my cylinder looks identical to your pics. except for the last pic. when looking at the bottom of mine, there is a gap between the cylinder and the sleeve. if looking at your pic, my gap would be on the left and on the right side of the pic (intake and exhaust side of cylinder). im not sure if that is ok to have or not. i know the sleve is tapered (top is thicker than bottom). but it sounds like from everyone's opinion i should just run the cylinder and i shouldnt have heating problems.

new sleeve on top, stock on bottom does this look correct or does something look wrong? dont mind the missing stud. i took that out to show the space between the stud and the sleeve

well here's the thing. i took in both cylinders. they said they would bore out the left cylinder to clean it up and then match up pistons for it and bore the right cylinder to match. well they couldnt get the cylinder cleaned up so they re-sleeved the left cylinder without telling me. which increased my price. i bought all my parts through this "performance machine shop"...hot rods 5mm long rod rotating assembly, pistons, gaskets, and spacer plate (and also a new sleeve apparently). i know i could have gotten a used cylinder cheaper (trust me). and i would have had the shop not just went ahead and re-sleeved it. here is a question for you...if i had all this work and spent over $1300 at your shop and i put the motor back together and say it runs a few weeks or a month and either detonates the right cylinder, or pulls left cylinder studs what would you say to me??? because that is my option. go back and demand to have the right side re-sleeved (sleeve costs $112) or run it and hope nothing bad happens. this is not a race bike but im not dumping over $1300 in a motor only to redo it again a month later when a piston melts in the cylinder. i appriciate your opinion. and i too would tell someone to kick rocks if i had a shop and they did that to me....but i also would not have re-sleeved a cylinder w/out approval from the owner.

ok what you are telling me makes me feel better. my main question is whether or not the different sleeve thicknesses will cause the cylinders to run at different temps therefore causing the stock (thin sleeve) to overheat and seize the piston in the sleeve or not? if you think they will run same temp and that the stroker motor wont pull the studs then i will try running it. otherwise i think i should have the machine shop re-sleeve the right side (stock) so that the two are the same thicknesses (thicker). thanks

hi there, im new so please bear with me... i recently destroyed my left cylinder. chances are it was my own fault bc the carbs were not set the same and i had constant problems bc i didnt really know how to set them the same...anyways long story short i ruined the left cylinder sleeve. i took both cylinders to a machine shop, the left one could not be bored out. so it was re-sleeved. now here is my problem... the new sleve is roughly 1/4 inch thick whereas the stock sleeve (right cylinder) is about an 1/8 inch (or probably less). i am wondering if i should take the cylinder back. the reason being is that the machine shop machined the inside diameter of the cylinder to get the new thicker sleeve to fit (instead of machining the outside of the new sleeve). now there is less than an 1/8 inch of aluminum between the head studs and the sleeve. i am afraid of two things 1) the studs will pull out 2) the different thicknesses of sleeves will cause one piston to lock up in the sleeve. the reason i think i might pull head studs is bc i have a 5mm crank and 4mm pistons that i am putting in the motor. i am afraid the compression will be too high for the left cylinder because of the distance (or lack there of) between the stud and sleeve. i am taking the cylinders back to the machine shop this friday and demand that they either garantee (for like 90 days) that the pisons wont lock up and i wont pull studs...or...demand that they re-sleeve the right cylinder so that the two are the same and still garantee that i wont pull head studs. im just not sure what i should do at this point...i have a lot of money in this motor and i shouldnt have crappy machine work for what i have paid what are your suggestions??? thanks

hi there, im new to the site and to jetting. what i have is an 01 banshee. long story short, the motor detonated the left cylinder and i started from scratch. i built a new motor with a 5mm long rod and 4mm pistons with stock bore. i also have stock exhaust and carbs. main question...do i need to re-jet and if so what are your reccommendations? also, this winter i plan to replace exhause with aftermarket (not sure what yet) and i know i will need to reg-jet then also. thanks