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Mikuni 28mm Flat slide carbs is all I know.

280 main and not sure for the pilot, whatever came with in the carbs when I bought them

I need to know what the jetting would be for a stock motor with toomey T-6 pipes and 28 flat slide carbs with no airbox at sea level should be. I cant find the jetting list or chart everyone keeps referring to, just the conversion chart, but it will not show up on my computer for some reason. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I finaly got spark and now the only thing left should be the fuel issue im having, the thing will not even attempt to fire and its getting spark.

I have the red to black, just through the switch side not harness side, the switch side is black and black/white but they are the connects for the red and black on the harness side. Its hooked up the same way as it was when it was running so I know thats right.

I have tested boot to boot and pulled the boots off and gone right to wires, got no reading. I just put a new ignition coil on and still no spark. I am getting a good reading on the stator and pick up. Im starting to think its either my flywheel or cdi

Also does it matter if the flywheel is rusted a little bit, it is more just discolored on the outside, rather than actual rust that is crumbling off or all rough looking. I was thinking this might be the cause to no spark, if this could prevent a spark can you sand the magneto clean?

What is the gap supposed to be, I could not find it in the clymers manual?

Not yet I will have to check that, thanks

The key switch is disconnected, the Black is looped back into the Black/White, thats how it was set up when I got the bike and it got spark then.

Thanks, but unfortunately no one I know around my area has a banshee, Ill just try everything else first and then break down and get a new cdi if all else fails.

Sorry if this is worded a bit weird, I dont know the best way to explain this, but I am trying to get this thing running and cannot get spark, I have tested stator and switches and all are reading correct, but still no spark. I tried testing the wires coming from the run stop switch (black in connector and Black/White thats separate from the multi-connection), they were good, But when I tested the wiring harness on the opposite connecting side going to the cdi, the black wire in the harness and the Black/White that is separate dont read anything, I get a reading when I go from black to a ground location. I disconnected the cdi and tested opposite ends of the black/white wire to see if it had a break in it, but it read good. Could this be a bad cdi or are these not supposed to have a reading like its connecting wires coming from the switch side. The only other issue I found was I could not get a reading from the secondary leads on the ignition coil, but when the bike broke down it was working fine, it just threw a rod.I was getting a good reading from the primary leads though. So I am lost on why I cant get any spark, and tired of spending money on unnecessary parts, any help would be appreciated.

Ok I have a freshly rebuilt motor and I want to make sure my jetting is right before I start. I have a stock bore, Toomey T-6 pipes, 28mm flat slide carbs, no Airbox just single filters on individual carbs, and some carbon fiber reeds on stock cages and that is about all the mods I have done. . Also I am at sea level, what mains and needle position would be a good starting point?

Thanks, thats what I was hoping, im going to be doing that tonight as soon as I get off.

Oh and By the way the push rod, cable, bearing, etc all look in good condition.

I am just finishing up a rebuild and my clutch is not working properly, I have not started the bike yet but when I engage the clutch and try to roll the bike it is not letting it move, I can see the clutch working and did all the adjustments like the manual said, plus rechecked torques and install and all seems correct. However I did order a new hinson basket from this guy, it came with plates and pads, the pads are in great shape but are wider than the pads that were in there, plus his did not have the rubber rings, so I added the ones from my set up and they fit but it was a tight fit getting the pads and rubber rings on since the new pads are wider, do you think the rubber pads are causing the problem or are they necessary? And could it be that I dont have it full of oil yet and its not letting the plates slip?

I am mainly Trail and MX

Hey I dont know the Tech term for them, but the guides or stops that come on the stock reed cages, are they needed, I have only one cage that has them and I am replacing the reeds with an aftermarket set and want to know if I should take the one set off, or find one to replace the side thats missing them. And any feelings on the best reeds to get, all I have done to bike is a set of t-5's and new 28mm flat slide carbs and airbox removed.

I had my last motor throw a rod and I think it was due to a air leak in the boots, they were stock and did not fit tight, I could see that the right cylinder, the side that broke the rod, was not getting fuel or just running lean. But I read on here about making your fuel lines level where they split. How important is this? DO both lines need to be the same length as well? Would a pingnel (hope I said that right) valve be a good idea on a stock motor or would it be a waste? Oh and for reference, the carbs are a new set of 28mm Mikuni flat slide carbs, which I hope are correct, I dont think they were meant for a banshee, they have independent chokes unlike the stock banshee carbs, but the guy I got them from said they would be fine.

Thanks, I did not want to get it all together and realize I lost any of those balls after the fact. But Im at a stand still not anyhow, I broke my clutch basket trying to get it torqued without the grabbit tool, got the hinson on the way and hopefully she will back up and running, I am going to check out the pancake bearing while im waiting on parts.

Hey im new to building a banshee and this forum so I hope I am going about this right. But I am in the process of putting my motor back together after I broke a rod. I had that ball bearing come out of the gear shaft on the clutch side and was wondering what it is for and is there only supposed to be one in there? and, or is there something else needed to keep it in there? Also I have seen some post talking about getting a pancake bearing, what is this for? Thanks for any help here, I did not see anything in the clymers manual about this ball bearing.