333bbb333

Thanks, I started with 30s and it did the same thing, but it was a lot harder to start, someone suggested i drop down to 27.5 and i have been since gone to 25s all with no major change, it just got easier to start as I drop down pilot sizes.

I need some help dialing in these carbs. I am running 300 mains, 25 pilots and the needle is set on 3rd rind down from top out of 6 total. I am at sea level and the motor is stock bore, with toomey t-6 pipes, 28mm mikuni flat slide carbs and pods. It is just lagging on the bottom end, it doesnt have that snappy feel to it, it goes but like a slug until i get it into the higher rpms or the top of 2nd then it gets running more like a shee should. I also had a prob with fuel running out of the overflow on the carb bowls, I took em apart and checked em out and they seem fine now, but its like they stick here and there, im just adding this in case it might be affecting how its running. Any suggestions this is a rebuild and have yet to have it running good to have a starting point or comparison of how it should be.

They are set on the 3rd ring down from the top, out of 6 ring positions

they are at 3 1/2 turns out if i remember correctly

I am trying to get the shee dialed in and need a little help, it is bogging in the 0 to 1/4 throttle, possibly up into the 1/2. When I get her up and rolling she seems to do a lot better, and have that snappy shee feel. But when I first start off she doesnt want to be snappy right of the jump and through the initial rev, only once it hits the power band does it seem to ride right. I have 27.5 pilots, 290 mains in right now. Should I go down in the pilot or up im not really sure? I havnt done a plug chop, but the plugs look like the book says they should on the outside, they do have a little bit of oil on them but not soaking. The specs on the bike and location are as followes Sea Level Toomey T-6 Pipes Mikuni 28mm flat slide carbs/ with pods Intakes with built in crossover Other than that she is stock, stock bore, no porting, just rebuilt and installed a new crank and top end

Thanks I already got some jets coming, Im going to try and switch, the plugs look a little wet so it makes sense.

Not sure how to explain the stage 2 cdi all I know is I bought a new cdi from AMR and it was a stage 2, they say it gives it more HP, easier starting, and works well on stock or modified motors. As for the jetting this the 340 and 30 is what i got from everyone here on the forums when I gave them my set up, Ill try dropping down to 300 and 27.5 if you think that sounds like a better set up, I dont think I listed my altitude on my last post, but I am at sea level, close to the beach so lots of moisture in the air here.

I got the shee running and it sounds good at idle, but as soon as I try to go it feels like its being held back, like the brakes are on. When I rev it up in neutral or in gear, from about half throttle on it sounds like it is bogging down. Right now I am running 340 mains 30 pilots and the clip is on the third slot from the bottom out of 6 slots total, the bike set up is as follows. I cant find the charts everyone keeps referring to on the forum to try and dial it in myself, and im lost with carbs still. Please help 28mm Mikuni flat slide carbs with pods Toomey T-6 pipes Stage 2 CDI billet intake with built in crossover and carbon reeds on stock cages And it has a standard bore

I just got the carbs a little more dialed in and things sound ok when the bike is in neutral but when I put the bike in gear and try to go, it seems to bog out a little. The clutch seems to be sticking right off the bat, but will let go after a second or so, but never really lets the bike jump or pull. When i get going and change gears it goes, but it does not have any power, it feels and sounds like it is being held back by something. Do you think this is a clutch problem, or do you think this sounds like it might be a jetting issue. I am dialing in my carbs right now and just switched to 340 mains and 30 pilots with the clip on the 3rd position down from the top out of 6. I am at sea level, 40-50 degrees average with the following mods, Pods Flat slide carbs intake with built in crossover stock reed cages with carbon reeds Toomey T-6 pipes AMR stage 2 CDI Stock bore with fresh crank and top end 2001 just in case it makes a difference. The only other thing I can think of is I damages one of the coils on my stator when taking the bike apart, It is crushed in some but not completely broken off from stator. I was getting spark when tested, but one coil seemed to have slightly less spark, but it was still easy to see. I ordered a new stator from Elecrtro sport industries and it did not work, they said I had to sand the gloss coat off where the ground was because it was keeping it from getting spark, but I tried that and grinding off the areas where it contacted the engine and still no spark so I went back to the damaged stator. Could this be causing the bike to not get enough spark once clutch is engaged, and making the engine have to work harder or something like that. My plugs are not showing much yet, color wise, I have only run it for like 5 -10 min total so no help there, sorry. Sorry about all the different issues but I wanted to give all the facts I could, so you could get a better understanding of whats going on. Oh ya and one more thing I hear a sort of squeal, coming from the engine when the bike is revving down. When I let it idle and rev the bike, it sounds petty good ,other than that squeal when it comes back down to the bottom of the rev range. Dont know if this could mean something to tight in clutch or flywheel and be the cause of the bog?????????????????? Thanks for any help you all can provide, I would not even be this far without you all.

Just wanted to say thank You to everyone who helped me out, I finally got her to come back to life, she still has a little bog when I put in gear and try to run but seems to rev fine when in neutral, any thoughts? otherwise she fires on first kick and idles well, need to run her a bit longer this weekend so I can check the plugs, but I also got a little squeak I hear when I rev her up, but it only occurs for a second and only when it gets back to the idle range after being reved up, I was wondering if it could be the clutch or flywheel to tight or something, Any insight? But thanks again to everyone who helped me out getting her here, shes idling thats a gold star in my book.

Thanks Everyone for the help, I finally got her to come back to life, I still got some bog when I try to open her up, but thats just dialing in everything, at least she is starting on first kick and idles good. Just to get some feed back she seems to rev fine when in neutral and sitting but when in gear and trying to move it seems to have a little bog, I do hear a squeaking sound after I rev her up and she comes back down to idle, it only happens when it gets down to its low speed and only for a second, could the clutch or flywheel be causing the bog or it sound like I just need to dial in the carbs a bit more?

As far as I know they are TM not VM, at least that is what the box says.

Ya I tried to spin it but no luck there either???????

What changes did you make to your needle, just the clip adjustment or did you have to order a whole new needle?

tried flipping but no luck, what do you mean by rolling it?

Thanks I got the pilot out it was a 15, I am def getting a 27.5 or 30 pilot and 340 main, but what or where is the air jet?

I have a set of new mikuni flat slide carbs VM28-418 and when I pulled them apart to adjust the needle, one of them got a click in the spring. I have tried to re set it many times and tried to get it in there straight but it always snakes inside the carb body, and when I push in the throttle it clicks like it is rubbing inside. It does not seem to be sticking or causing any delay, and it only happens on the initial throttle movement, if you dont let it go all the way back down or around 1/8th throttle, it will not make the noise. Is this something I can just live with or does anyone have any clue on how I can get it to stop, metal on metal is never good in my opinion no matter how small the problem.

Here is a pic I found online, it looks like the pilot I have, only I think my pilot has one more thread to it and seems a little closer together but it could be the close up shot that is getting me. Regardless I can not find my cable for my camera so I just used this image since it looks just like mine. My carbs are VM28-418

Ya it started to leak fuel thats how I realized they were loose. I just cleaned the carbs but did not see a size on the pilote, I might have just overlooked it though, I will be pulling them again tomorrow though. The right plug had a little oil on it but not soaked, other than that both plugs didnt have enough run time on them to really show much, it literally runs for 2 to 3 seconds, if you keep trying it starts running less and less, but if it sits for 30 sec to a min. it fires up easier again.

I still got to get the pilots out but the carb model is Mikuni VM28-418, the pilots should be #15 in there now but I wont get to get to that till tomorrow, I will get some pics.

Ya it will not stay running long enough to see what it does at 1/4 throttle, soon as you try to give it gas it bogs out. I pulled the pilot out and did not see a number on it but im gona recheck today

Thats what I thought, I did not see any numbers when I pulled it out the other day, I will try again and see if I just overlooked it. My concern is that these are not banshee specific carbs, I was told it did not matter as long as they were the same carb, but thats why im trying to find out what a good starting point would be for the main and pilot and then Go from there.

Rebuilt, new crank and top end both stock, and new intake with built in crossover, and new 28mm mikuni flat slide carbs with a 280 main and stock pilot with the needle clip in the 3rd ring up from bottom out of 6, not sure what size pilot is. I also have the airbox off and using two can filters. The only other thing different than stock is a set of toomey T-6 pipes and new carbon reeds. Ill explain my problem to and see if it helps or if you can offer some insight. She fires over 1st second kick with the chokes on (Well at least I think they are on, its a lever choke, but I assume they are on because the levers are down and the plungers are pulled up or out like if you where pulling the choke out on a normal carb choke). But she will not turn over with them off and when she starts she sounds good but only for a second or two, then she cuts off. Once I let her sit for a couple seconds she will fire right up again for a few seconds, and it keeps going like that. The fuel lines are clear and flowing but they are a bit loose where they go into the carbs, I noticed them leaking gas there tonight when I was trying to get her going. Could this be causing the carbs to loose suction and not draw in the fuel properly? Or this sound like a jetting issue?

Is the Pilot the smaller one right next to the main, it has holes down along the shaft of it, or am I looking at the wrong part. I did not see any sizing on that piece when I removed it. Do you know what I should be running with my set up. Ill explain my problem a little bit and see if that helps at all or if you can offer some insight. I just rebuilt engine and she fires up 1st - 2nd kick and sounds fine, purring, but then cuts right off after a second or two, if I let her sit for a second she will fire right up again, and on and on. I can only assume its my jetting, the lines are clear and flowing, and shes getting spark from what I can tell. My fuel line coming into the carbs are a little loose, I noticed it leaking there at the carb when I was trying to start her tonight, could that be causing the lines to loose suction and not draw in the fuel properly?

Hi I know this is the wrong forum but I cant get any help in the carb forum. I need to know what jet setup to use, I am getting the bike to start 1st or 2nd kick but it will not stay running. I am at sea level, with a stock motor that has toomey t-6 pipes and the air box has been removed, I am running 2 mikuni 28mm flat slide carbs with a 280 main, and the pilots are whatever comes stock with the carbs, not sure the size of them. Also the carbs have two k&n style filters on them.