speedcrazyshee

1993 Yamaha Banshee $2500. For Sale: 1993 Yamaha Banshee, full frame up rebuild. Frame powder coated, gloss black. New pivot works A Arm bearings,swing arm bushings and axel bearings, steering stem bearing and wheel bearings. All break calipers fully rebuilt with new breaks and seals and srainless braided brake lines. New tires all the way around. Motor stock cylinder 4ml. Agressive trail port. Hotrods 4ml long rod crank trued and welded. tz bearing on pto side. Wiseco 795 series pistons 64.5ml bore. Noss machine cool head with 21cc cut domes for 4ml. 195lbs of compression per side cold-on 110 octane race fuel. Dual flow Pingel. 35ml pwk airstrikers carbs with a Boss Billet intake. Vforce 3 reeds, Toomy T5 exhaust with fresh packing. Prodesign Billet highflow water pump and timing plate, set at +5 timing. Kg factors clutch with Barnett Billet clutch basket. 3 HD springs, 3 standard springs, easy pull clutch perch, mull engineering modified shift star. New Regina chain and Renthal sprockets, Dg alloy series nerf bars. Trail tech head lights Maybe 10 hours on rebuild. no title. bill of sale only call or text me at 607 341-5064. thursday and friday calls may not be returned till saturday depending on cell service. pics sent per request. also for sale is a 2007 yfz450. tcr pipe, gtyr intake and cdi, new tires, chain and sprokets, a arm bearings pro amor tether not installed, full skid plates and hand guards. oil changed every 10 hours with yamaha 4r. dg alloy series nerf bars and gusseted frame 3000$ package deal will include a 5x8 utility trailer with tailgate. due to lack of time and a shoulder problem i can no longer ride these quads. need it gone asap. make offer worst that could happen is i would say no. sorry i have no pics on my computer to up load. i can send them from my phone via e mail or text i dont always have access to my computer so a call or text would be better to reach me. quads are located in binghamton ny

if anyone else wants to chime in to help it would be great.

pm sent with contact info.

if someone doesnt come in thats a little closer i will contact you. you are around 5 1/2 hours from me which is a little far.thank you very much for the offer and i will let you know.

i have recently finished a banshee build (mods in sig). my quad went from a stock machine that i rode once to the 4 mill that it is now. i really have no to idea what i should expect out of my machine.i know it may be hard to explain to me what to expect. so what i am actually looking for is some 4 mill owners that may live close to me so i can have some one judge my machine that knows what to look for in a build of this kind. dont get me wrong it is fast but i am not sure it is what i expected. i would be willing to meet someone to do some riding and have them ride my machine to give me an idea of what i have or if i should expect more. i would take it back to my motor builder but he never has time. it took him 9 months to build my motor. if anyone is willing to meet that has alot of xp with these machines let me know. i dont want to travel 5 or 6 hours but a couple of hours would not be a problem. thanks in advance.

in my opinion if the shop does not want to help. find a new shop to deal with. some people just dont want to be bothered to look for the parts we need. i have shops like that around me. i have a yamaha dealer 1 mile from my door but i drive almost 15 to the shop i deal with. they will bend over backwards to find what i need. find a shop you like and stick with them for all you can. i have spent so much at my local shop that i am to the point where i pay dealer cost on all that i buy. and with the amount of money that we spend on our shees it dont take long to start seeing deals. the shee is far from a dying breed. you can get anything for them if you are just willing to look.

i am in binghamton n.y

i dont know alot about compression. but 140 seems low for 18cc domes. i just finished my 4 mill build and i am at 195psi per side on 20cc domes. i am running cut domes for a 4 mill and no base plate.

pm and e mail sent.

i usually takes me about 15 minutes to bleed brake lines and calipers. here is what i do. i bleed at each point. first i unbolt at the line at the master cylinder. cover bolt hole with finger and pump the brakes. you will feel air preasure build behind your finger. let out air on the down stroke. when you have fluid rebolt the line at this point. next unbolt the brake line at the caliper and hold the end of the line between two fingers. pump the brakes. you will feel air preasure at the end of the line. let the air out on the down stroke and the squeeze tight on the up stroke so you dont let air back in. once you have fluid at this point rebolt the line to the caliper. then bleed caliper as normal. i know it sounds like a lot and a pain in the but but it works. the last time i did my brake system it was from a full rebuild so there was no fluid in the entire system. with this method it took me about a half hour to do both front calipers and about 10 to 15 minutes to do the rear. just the way i do it so good luck.

to everyone installing the vapor and having trouble with the tach working. wejust did one on a kfx450r. the tach wire has a resistor in it that was bad and would not allow the tach to work. we put the power on the tach and it worked just fine. we emailed trail tech and they sent us a new wire without the resistor in it. i have see many other people have the same problem. just a heads up to you all. resistors are bad mmmmmmmmmmkkkkkkkkkkk. they are worthless and can go bad very easily.

i use a product by maxima called SC-1. it is a detailing spray that really brings out the shine in the plastics and polishes metal well. it also leaves a teflon coating behind so water, mud and oil does not stick to anything. it makes it ten times easier to wash.

Not true in my opinion. i have owned a 07 yfz for 2 years that i have bought new, and i ride the hell out of it in the woods and tight trails up to drag racing and i have not had a single issue with the motor. maintaince is the key to a good running machine. i clean air filters after every ride and change oil every 8 hours. i love my yfz. it is a awsome ride. just my .02

pm sent

i used about 80 to 100psi depending on the grime on the cases. make sure to tape of all inlets to the internals of the motor. i used this method to clean and restore many of the parts on my banshee. it work very well. i does make a mess thou. dont do it in a grassy area. the baking soda will kill the grass.

i soda blasted mine and they came out great. just get your self a few boxes of baking soda and a sand blaster and go to town. it will remove all the dirt and grease but will not harm the cases.

weld a nut on to the bolt. hit it with a little heat then put an impact to it. i should come right out. good luck

i modified a large bolt that the head would fit in the hex nut that holds the bearing in. weld a nut to the bolt then use the head of the bolt to turn out the inverted hex that holds the bearing in. it was a cinch

thanks for the advice guys. i think i am going to have the stock carbs bored to 28mill and run them for now. i will talk to my motor guy about the pipes and see what he says. i cant wait till this thing is done so i can go beat up on all the 450s that ride with me. this is my first banshee project and i am really excited.

i am undecided on pipes so any advice would help there also. i ride mainly fast trails but still would like some low end for the tight stuff. i was thinking t5s. any other ideas would be cool

i am having a 4mil longrod stock bore built. he is doing a full port with cases port matched. pro design coolhead with 22 or 21 cc domes, +4 timing plate, billet pump. i need advice on carbs. what do you all think about boring the stock carbs. my builder thinks he an get them to 28 or 29mil. do you guys think that would be ok for this type of build. this will be a trail quad mostly. he also wants me to put rad valves that he will custom cut for my motor. he said that v force tend to come apart and take pistons with them. has anyone had a problem with this or heard about this? thanks in advance chris

i just did mine. i used a 17mil socket and extention to do one side and a 19mil to do the other side.my bearings were completely destroyed with the exception of the outer housing and i had them out in 5 minutes using a good bfh

i have decided to build a 485 cheetah to drag in a 1/8 mile asphalt. i have done searches and read many threads about overrides and still my questions are not answered. i want to do an override tranny but am still unsure which and why. i may some day want to trail ride this quad if i ever got out of draging but would not be afraid to buy a new tranny when it was time to do so. so here is my question. if a duneable will take a backload better than a straight override why would anyone take the chance of installing a straight override. why is it better for straight draging than a duneable. which would be my best option if i wanted to build a sole purpose drag bike and why. it seams to me that they both serve the same purpose but one has down side.

thanks for the input guys. i really want to put together my own quad instead of buying one. it would mean alot more to me if i built it myself then bought it even if i do have a limited budget. but 3000 is just my parts budget for the motor. i have a person that will take care of all my labor and port work for very little $ or none at all. the frame will have its on budget as far as swingarm ect. i will be watching for decent used parts. i am not above that at all. but i want to get this done thru my own blood sweat and $$$$$$$$$$$$$$. i truly love working on my machines almost as much as i like riding them. i dont know if that makes alot of difference but let me know.

HI ALL. I AM NEW TO THE BANSHEE WORLD WITH MY RECENT PURCHASE OF A BONE STOCK 2002 BANSHEE. I WANT TO BUILD A 1/8 MILE ASPHALT DRAG QUAD. I RECENTLY BUILT A 1986 TRX250R THAT IS NOW OVER 350CC AND WASNT HAPPY WITH IT. THE 250R IS NOW FOR SALE TO BUILD THE BANSHEE. MY QUESTION TO YOU GUYS IS WHAT IS THE BEST ROUT TO GO WITH THE BUILD FOR MAX PERFORMANCE ON A BUDGET OF ABOUT 3000 DOLLARS FOR THE MOTOR. I WAS THINKING A CUB BUILD BUT THERE ARE SO MANY TO CHOOSE FROM. I WOULD LIKE TO HAVE A QUAD IN THE 6 TO 7 SECOND RANGE OR FASTER IF POSSIBLE. THANKS IN ADVANCE 2007 YFZ 450 SEMI BUILT 2002 BONE STOCK BANSHEE 1986 TRX 250R BUILT TO THE HILT