Doddy

You obviously have the internet so anything you can't get in your town you can always get online. What ever you do don't try and powder coat...won't hold.

Non hi-temp powder doesn't hold up well at all. I took three trips on my pipes and they are worse then before I PC'd them when they were just painted with high temp paint. Just flakes off. I heard ceramic coating is the way to go for anything that is going to be put through temps as hot as our pipes get.

God damn newbies don't know how this shit works! LOL Thanks guys. That's why I post shit on here, just saved my self about $200.

So I was taking off my A-arms to paint them this weekend and I had my bike over at a friends house to work on it because I no longer have a garage. I didn't bring ALL of my tools with me so I was working with what I had. I was trying to pop the ball joints and those freaking things were stuck in there good. I left my pickle fork at home so I just knocked them out with a hammer. Finally got em to bust loose took them home and spent about 4 hours sanding them and painting them with truck bed liner. Took them back over there last night to put them on and started threading the nuts back on and realized the entire fucking ball joint was spinning. So I apparently broke the shit out of 3 of the 4 A-arms and now I have to go spend a few hundred more on replacing them. I just thought I would post something up about it so no one else makes a dumb newbie mistake like I did. Just more proof that if you don't have the right tool for the job then go get the right damn tool so you don't have to go out and drop more money to replace the shit. GO BLAZERS!!!!

Just did this last week for the first time. It's super easy. Just pull the pipes off, unplug the wiring, unhook the clutch cable, pull the plugs, take the carb tops off, pope out like four bolts that hold the biatch to the frame, and slide it out. I found that I had to take the stator cover off (along with the shifter and left side peg) in order to slide the chain off the front sprocket. Be careful when doing this if you have the stock philips screws in it because they will strip if your not using an impacter.

Yeah if PC were an option I would def. go in that direction but b/c the ball joints aren't replaceable and obviously can't be baked I will defer to paint. I would by aftermarket, but I'm already dropping about $1,000 on motor work so new A-arms just won't work out. I don't race or anything so I'm not worried about adding a few extra oz to the frame due to the Rhino line I just want something that will hold up and I worry about plain paint on the A-arms holding up to mild abuse.

I desperately need to paint my A-arms...they are currently the stock Yamaha blue and I would like to paint them black as cheap as possible. I would by new ones, but they really aren't in the budget right now. Here is what I was thinking: 1) Rhino Lined Black - Would this work, has anyone done it? If so what prep work do I need to do? 2) Automotive paint - My buddy has a shop and a gun but how much would paint be, and what kind? Any help would be appreciated.

My =stock bore stock stroke Banshee can hit 120 MPH no probs. All I have to do is throw it in the back of my buddies chipped Duramax and hit the skinny peddle until I can go any faster...

If your in the Salem area there is also Dave Moore Racing. I have my motor at his shop right now and this will be the first build that he has done for me so I don't have first hand experience quite yet, but I will let you know how it goes. His shop is out of Keiser, he has competitive pricing, and he really knows his shit and he will pull the whole motor apart right in front of you and talk to you about any issues he sees and any work that he is recommending.

Well I posted a couple of weeks ago that I was having some serious issues with my bike. After trouble shooting for a week I could still only get one cylinder to fire, the other didn't have a high enough compression to even fire. So it's time for a top-end rebuild and some extra motor work. I'm planning on the following mods, and want to continue to run on pump gas. Current Mods: >FMF Fattys >V-Force II Reeds >Advanced Timing +4* >Pods Motor work to be done: >Cylinders: Bored, honed and new pistons >Shaved head (.035 I believe) >Dune/Play Port >Lightened flywheel >Crank Trued and welded Is there anything else that I should be looking into while I'm having all this done? Thanks, Alex

Awe hind site is a wonderful thing isn't it. Read my sig it says RAPED by the dealership brand new in '08. They got me for all I was worth. I'm no dummy I shouldn't have bought a bike from the dealer I know that, but it was an impulse buy. Believe me when I got it home I had the worst case of buyers remorse, and I even called the dealership back to try and return it, but they wouldn't take it. anyway...I was working on my bike last night and found the real problem. I lost two reed pedals off my V-force II which is why it wouldn't run. Thankfully none of the screw got sucked up in the motor, and the reed pedals themselves didn't get sucked up in there either just really close.

Well It's not completely blown, but it has pretty low compression in both cylinders (around 110-115). What happened was when I let the gas get down to low there was some moisture in the gas and that mixed with some sand that got sucked up in the carb was causing the issue. I got it to fire out of one cylinder last night, but couldn't get gas to the cylinder on the other side. I'm just tearing the carbs down, soaking then and cleaning them up and should be good to go for awhile. There is definitely a top end rebuild coming in the near future.

I realize how long the warranty is I was there when I bought the bike. I did buy the extended warranty however unfortunately I did take the POS TORS off and cut the wire going into the throttle. And do you think that you can get sand into your motor even if you have all the stock shit on? You could tear a hole in your intake boot. If you have the lid off your stock air box and the filter falls off you can get dirt and sand in it that way too.

I thought I was out of Gas. I kicked it over a couple times and then it Popped and backfired and I couldn't get it to kick over. I changed the spark plugs out thinking maybe I just fouled a plug, but it's not even trying to turn over. I'm going to do a compression test on it tonight and see what the deal is. After that I'm going to tear the head off and see if the piston is all scarred up.

I still have it all but I cut the damn wire that feeds into the throttle.

So I was out riding this weekend when all the sudden my throttle got stuck wide open. I killed the bike took a look at my carb and to my surprise I was missing a Pod Filter. So I towed it back to camp and took the carb off and cleaned it up. The next day I went out and bought a new filter and rode pretty much all day, but I think the damage was done because that night all the sudden my bike stopped running and I couldn't get it started again. I literally wore a hole in my shoe trying. My Bike is still covered under the factory warranty however I'm pretty sure some of the mods I have on there would void the warranty. Can some one please let me know which of the below mods will void the warranty so I can put my stock shit back on before I take my bike into the dealer. TORS Eliminator carb tops - ???? Adjustable timing plate - Putting back to stock Pod filters - ???? V-Force 2 Reeds - ???? Exhaust - doesn't void waranty Thanks, Alex

I was hoping someone had some spare bolts laying around. I need the two bolts that hold the brake caliper on. Thanks,

Looks like someone puked up a bottle of Pepto all over a perfectly nice Shee. J/K it's good for a girls ride. My girl wouldn't ride it I don't think, she'd prob want a freaking skull or something on there.

My friend lost the two bolts that hold her front brake caliper on so I'm wondering if anyone has some spare ones kicking around their parts bucket. Let me know I'd be happy to pay for shipping. Thanks, Alex

Unless your going with a custom paint job Krylon works just fine. And you do not need to sand it first unless you want to. Really I can't think of any reason to sand it down unless your going for a show finish in which case you should go ahead and have them custom painted. If all you want is to change the color just clean the plastics really well, freakin spray them down with like 5 coats and keep a couple extra cans so that you can do some touch up when it inevitably does scratch.

Here's mine. I'm prob going to do Yellow springs and black A-Arms eventually.

I have the stock Yamaha blue A-arms that really don't fit my color scheme anymore. They are in pretty good shape, some wear from normal riding on the lower arms. I would really prefer black A-arms, but silver might work also. PM me if your interested.

I wouldn't spend a bunch of money on painting your plastics. I was going to go ahead and do the automotive paint thing, and then I realized that it was just going to crack and scratch no matter what I did to protect it. I went w/ the Krylon fusion and it worked awesome. It will scratch just like and paint, and then you just go ahead and bust out the spray can and touch it up. I think the Krylon Fusion is quick, cheap and for what it is it looks damn good.

So I took her out to Florence over the weekend and all the paint actually held up pretty well. I had a few scratch on the rear fenders where I must have hit some branches and shit, but no stress cracks or huge flaking of any sort. I was pleasantly surprised. It was pretty wet so I had quite a bit of wet sand stuck to the bike, but when I got home I just washed it with some soap and water and everything came off with no problems. I did have some issues with the powder coating on the pipes. They told me at the shop that they used high temp powder coating, but it still began to flake where the pipe meets up with the head. I'm going to take them back in and have them try it again. Overall I am very happy with how it turned out, I would say that the Krylon Fusion paint is actually rather durable for what it is.

Did you put the slides in the correct carbs? If you get them backwards you will have a similar problem.