cjtl1000r

I got just what your looking for. 1994 shee already apart and ready for a rebuild. All parts are there, crank has a rod bearing out but if your building a dragger then you would upgrade this anyway. If your interested I can send you some pics. I'm in north west alabama so we aren't that far away. chris

Located in Florence Alabama 35630. Sorry!

I bought this shee completly in tact and was intending on doing a complete ground up rebuild. After gtting it apart, I realize I'm in over my head! LOL either way here's why it was locked up. The left side rod bearing on the crank came apart and caused the lock up. The cylinders are good but i'm sure could use a honning. The tranny has a busted shaft on the rear where the kick gear is held on with the cir-clip. Those are the two major things wrong but other than that all the parts are here. Plastics are in good condition and uncut. The first $700 gets it. PM me for pics or questions. Thanks, Chris

Here's the deal guys, I bought a 94 shee to do a rebuild on but now the money is needed else where. I would prefer to sale the entire unit as a whole and will be open to offers for a couple days, if the offer isn't there I'll procede with the part out. I'm in northwest Alabama and will be happy to meet you for pick up if you want the whole unit. I have a few pics of it before the tare down and some pics of the breakdown. The left rod bearing was shot and lead to the motor locking up. Once I got it apart I found the rear shaft on the tranny was busted at the kick gear and won't allow the cir clip to stay on. Other than that the rest of the unit was in pretty good shape. Like I said I would like to sale the whole thing so make me an offer. PM me for pics. Cj

How can I tell if the reeds are bad? I'm working on a project that i bought with a locked up engine. Before I put it all back together i would like to know what to look for. Also why are the V-force reeds any better than stock?

hey guys, got it figured out, The shop guy was looking at an 08' book and it didn't show an 80 over piston so he thought it was finished. We got all the info we need and new stuff on the way.

here's the deal. My jugs are currently at .075 over. the local shop seams to think they are on the last bore and would need to be resleeved. I have a guy at a shop in michigan telling me he has kit for sale that has a stock Wiceco crank with Hot Rods, .080 over Wiseco pistons and all the gaskets. i can get a good deal on the package but if i can't get my jugs bored agian i can 't use the .080 overs. So what's the deal? Wiseco's web site doesn't show an .080 over piston.

Ok thanks guys, that what i thought on the ball joints not being removable.

So i can pull the boots but will need to replace them after the powder coat? Sorry, I'm getting a lil confused!

i didn't think the whole ball joint could be removed It was my understanding that these were fixed into the a-arm

Two quick questions; first, can the rubber boots be removed from the a-arms to allow them to be powder coated? Also how do you get the bearings out of the swing arm where it connects to the frame? I got the pin out and the seals but those two bearings are bound up tight. I put some wd-40 on them last night and am going to try again tonight, if all else fails I

I need to run a die down the threads to clean them up but don't know what size they are. Any help?

What you want for the whole motor? Why are you spliting the case?

send pics to [email protected] please.

Florence Alabama 35630

Looking for a stock tranny and crank in good condition. Let me know what you got and what you want for it!

Assuming the spark arrestors will restrict the exhaust flow, is it safe to say the power core will have a louder sound and allow for more air flow?

Looking at options for my rebuild and have found good deal on these pipes. Whats the main differance and is performance better with one over the other?

I'm rebuilding an older shee and one of my ball joints has the boot busted. I can tell they are pressed in but is there an easy way to get them out? i was considering having the arms blasted and powder coated but i don't think you can do that with the rubber boots on? Any suggestions?

Got a few parts here that I

No there isn't anything to interfer with the crank and it isn't punctured through by any means. Mostly just scuffed but there are some places that are gouged. I'll try to post pics tonight.

Hey guys, working on a complete rebuild here. The left side rod bearing went out and left small metal parts in the bottom of the case. I'm assuming the crank has just pounded the broken bearing pieces into the bottom and has left some damage. Before replaceing the crank should i have the case repaired or will it be ok? I'll try to post a pic later.

After a little research I think these are anold set of FMF's with the end chopped off. I noticed another ad on here and the look very similar with the exception of the ends. One of the black ones has a crack but other wise in decent condition. I'l take $50 for the plus shipping.

After a little research I think these are anold set of FMF's with the end chopped off. I noticed another ad on here and the look very similar with the exception of the ends. One of the black ones has a crack but other wise in decent condition. I'l take $50 for the plus shipping.

As you can see these are in overall good ondition. The rear fender is the only one busted and it's not a show stopper by any means. I'll take $75 plus shipping. Some of the pictures look blue but thay are actually purple.