jmiller

It also seems to do it after i do some trail riding or slower riding. When i put new plugs into it seems to get alot better/ completely clear up

NOpe not yet but that definetly sounds like float to you guys?

Anyone?

This is not my banshee just a video i found on youtube. Mine makes the same breaking up sound that this one does around 0:23 turn the volume up good to hear it

Nope it will pull hard and crisp through that rpm range its when its way up there that i start having problems and it doesn't break up with that sound. How do i upload a video that would problably help

Should i throw the stock coil back in? Also how would i test it to make sure its not faulty @gotta_gofast i cannot tell if its breaking up on one cylinder or both i just hear/feel a miss just like a freaking rev limiter

Okay so im looking at either a problem within the crap stock carbs or something with ignition. The ign coil and pickup coil both tested good.16.4 Ign. Coil and 104.8 for the pickup. Has anyone else had issues with these nology coils and hotwires? Thing is brand new cost me almost 150 shouldnt have any problems with it

I dont think its a CDI problem it runs mint everywhere except for them i scream the shit out of it starts right up and doesnt do anything funny so i wouldnt THINK its a CDI?? I notice it breaking up after i go through some trail/slower riding. Ill replace plugs and they will look fine put new plugs in it runs great and then does it again next time i do slow riding or get a few hours on the plugs.

Just tested ign. coil and pickup coil IGN. Coil tested 16.4 Supposed to be between 13.7-20.5 Pickup Coil. Tested 104.8 Suppossed t o be between 94-140 So both of them are good and the nology coil and hotwires is very new. I wouldnt think id have a problem with a brand new coil wires and caps. But idk? Does this sound more like a fuel related issue or a electrical? thanks guys

Okay thanks for your inputs i appreciate it im going to look into the float issue

Thanks ZillaFreak that sounds like it could be the case would drying up the bowls be easy to do with setup i have? thanks for the input guys

Nope, also when i go trail riding and then get back out into the open and run it WOT it breaks up. Ill go back and put new plugs into it and it will run alot better but the plugs never look fouled??

Other than gettting a bigger set of carbs is there anything i can do? Like maybe pingel? or bigger bowls? thanks

Hey seasoned guys need some help here. I have a banshee that is breaking up under WOT launch and high revs through the gears. It only happens when im really reving it out but it sounds like a rev limiter. Since there is no such thing on a stock banshee it wont go away. I was wondering what electrical parts commonly cause something like this to happen. I know that when i origninally took off my stator cover there was light rust in there nothing major. Top end has less than 10 hours on it. Tryed all jets from 310-360 tryed different needles different settings different pilots different settings. I know my carbs drip gas out the overflow when i park it it has always done that not sure if that could be the problem? List of mods and elevation at bottom. Has been driving me completely nuts for months. Have tryed cleaning carbs. Changed plugs. Pickup gap is good Plug gap is good someone has to have had this happen before thanks for your help 2002 Yamaha Banshee FAST dune port .40 Wiesco pistons Shearer Small Bore inframes V-Force 3 Reeds Adjustable plate +4 Cool Head 20cc domes 145psi cold both jugs Nology Coil and Wires (BRand NEw) K&N pod filters Tors eliminated Stock Carbs CUrrent Jetting 340 Main Stock Needle Mid. CLip Stock Pilot A/screw 1___1 1/2 out depends on temp.

Also yes they are stock carbs tors removed 330 mains 27.5 polots and needle clip in mid. position. thanks

Elevation is less than 500 feet in in jersey. I am using standard b8es plugs non resistor type. Plugs look brand new when i take them out considering im only getting about a half hour to a set of plugs now. Bike runs great once warmed up then about after a half hour or 45 min of riding it runs like shit again.... when i had the t5 and it was running mint they were light light brown 310 mains.. My bike has always ran richer for some reason. Would a pingle help me out? also when i put the quad on flat ground and turn the fuel on carbs overflow but not real bad. idk possibly dying out on top end from lack of fuel??

Hey banshee guys i have an 02 banshee with a dune port and wiesco pistons .10 over by Jeff at F.A.S.T. It has shearer pipes k&n pods, cool heads with 20cc domes 125 psi (seems really low) only about 25hrs on top end. +4 timing vf3 reed cages nology coil and wires and i have been having the same problem and have been trouble shooting for about 6 months. When im running it through the gears and winding it out in the upper rpm it breakes up similar to a 450 bouncing off rev limiter. I bought a new ignition coil thinking it was that. No good. Tryed swapping stators flywheels cdi's and still no better. I pulled my reeds out and the one petal was bent do i bought some vf3 and it cleared it up ALOT but it still does it especially when i get off to switch gears and get back on it it breaks up real bad. Im running stock carbs with the tors elimiated 330 mains stock clip mid position 27.5 pilots. I have taken the wiring harness out and stripped all the crap of of it and rewond it with electrial tape. Here is the thing. I have noticed when i first through a new set of plugs in it will run great untill i get about a few hrs on the plugs then it runs like shit again. Running 93 octane maxiama 927 40:1 any suggestons would be great. I have done a leak down test and compression test and it all seems good. Getting very frustrated thanks

Hey, the d-10 hoosier racing tires are great for clay surfaces that are wet. If its a real dry night and you have a 75 hp banshee you dont have anything left to those tires by the feature. The dryer it is the higher number youd want d12 d15 ect. The higher the number the stiffer the tire. D10 is the softest. Alot of the guys are running anti sway or antiroll bars. Durable makes them lonestar ect. Uhmm.. 18in fronts and 20in rear or else your arms will be dead if you run anything bigger in the front. I think stock front shocks would be alright if your on a budget just put a couple extra turns in that front right unless your using a sway bar. Rear should be fine.

Hey everyone i gotta banshee with a dune port done by Jeff at F.A.S.T, nology coil and hotwires, cool heads 20cc domes (135psi), wiesco pistons (10 over), 330 mains 27.5 pilots stock clip, advanced timing +5 running pump 93 octane, shearer inframe pipes, k&n pods, what next??? i was thinkin carbs or maybe v-force 3 :shrug: ... currently stock carbs reeds cylinders crank ect. i eventually am planning on a 421 cub 4mill But for now what would you recommend and would that work with a cub in the future...?? Top end junkie

I have a banshee with a fast dune port, wiesco pistons .10 over +4 timing cool head 20cc domes 135 psi. Stock carbs reeds ect. Running PowerMist 36:1 ratio with 93 octane fuel. Heres the deal... I had a set of Toomey T5 pipes with a full airbox with 16 uni circle filters and a pro-design 2 stage filter with a plate. Ran 310 mains and stock pilots 1.5 turns out in January Toomey Needle. Ran perfect... Got a set of shearer small bores because i was told they would perform better on the setup i have and also got some k&n pod filters for stock carbs. Its about 80 degrees here in Jersey. It has no power in 5th and 6th gear and breaks up very badly and has random burps across the powerband. Will not wind out clearly. Ive tryed different cdi boxes different plugs every main jet from a 360 to a 310 stock pilots and 27.5 pilots all different settings and the toomey needle and the stock needle in all different settings. Ive tryed the k and n with and without the prefilters Still no better. Please help.. Im outta ideas. :PPPPP

BRAND NEW majer black front plastic (race cut style) used for a couple hours with YAMAHA letters on sides--- BRAND NEW!!!! 75$$ DG Nerf Bars 75$ j.a.miller@embarqmail.com thanks for looking. for those who were looking at the toomeys im still trying to get pictures up

Trying to upload pics sorry thanks for looking jeremy

Sorry but 200 is too low thanks for looking .. Jeremy

I got a vitos tors eliminator kit for the stock carbs b.c the tors were giving me problems.. Put the vitos kit on problem solved. :biggrin: couple tanks later the one screw falls out... i go too the vitos site and order another screw shipping was muchhhh more than the screw itself so i got another screw cleaned out carbs and put the new screw in and it stripped out without even really tightening it. Ive been through 4 idle screws now since july the springs seem to be working ok even know they are too long so you have to cut them to make them fit. Now i did that after putting the 4th key in and the throttle cable broke... VITOS SUCKS ive also emailed them and their customer support isnt the best... If i could do it again id go with another manufacturer like motion pro or moose... I was expecting better quailty from such a big name...

I have a set of Toomey T5 in chrome. I bought them this past june BRAND NEW CONDITION. Looking to either trade for a nice set of shearer inframes in SHOW CHROME or cash talks make an offer j.a.miller@embarqmail.com thanks for looking