pinkshee

99 banshee obviously. no boost bottle, +4 key, stock carbs, open box with uni filter and pro flow adapter, milled head, pro circuit platinums, renthal sprocket and bars, new pivot works axle bearings, vito's carbon flex 2 stage reeds on stock cages. no port no stroke. .020 over m&h pistons that i just put in 2.5 gallons of gas ago. i am in a financial bind and need the money. i figured 1500 is reasonable for a running bike. if anyone cares i run 42:1 super techni with 93 oct. engine ice in the rad. bel ray gear saver in the case. thanks. btw i will keep it before i go below 1500 pm for pics

from the looks of it, it appears that the water jackets run at least a quarter of the way down the jug so the coolant has to flow down there, at least a little. btw i am talking about a stock head

so i was looking at my head gasket today in comparison to the jugs and the head. i noticed that the water jackets on both the head and the jugs have a little more material in the gasket space. has anyone ever thought of removing that material to open the water jackets up to match the gasket? it seems like it would flow a little better since there is more of an opening. i am thinking about doing this while mine is apart, waiting on a piston. on a side note, what generally go on during a dome re-chambering? is the squish band narrowed to give the dome more of a cone shape? btw definitely mic your cylinders if you buy a used bike. turns out the reason i was blowing pistons is because i was putting std pistons in .020 over jugs. $300 bones later i figured this out. don't roast me for this either.

careful you are opening a can of worms that has been opened a million times. as for the oil everyone has their favorites. the most popular are klotz and amsoil, but there are also people that just run stuff they can get at wal mart or a gas station. so you pretty much have to decide for yourself which you like best. and on to the boost bottle the general consensus is that it don't do shit. while there is no notable gains in performance, it does put a little bling on the machine. just watch out for ripped intake boots that will cause air leaks. so there you go. just try a little of everything and find what you like.

make sure your rings are on the right way. i learned the $200 way

the last time my kicker was stuck it was because i blew a piston skirt and some debris went into the bottom end. you should probably pull the carbs and reed and see what you can. either that or the little ear on the kicker shaft isn't in the right spot, but i kinda doubt that. anyone else?

i am in richlands, i will check my jets tonight and see what i am running, (i believe 280 mains and 25 pilots, 3rd clip) it should be a good baseline for our elevation and current temps. last week when it was warmer it ran great and before when it was cold it ran a little better. i know mine is a bitch to start cold so i might need to check my carb bowls as well. (side note: the stock pickup gap makes mine harder to start than .024 for some reason. maybe you could try that as well. just a thought)

unfortunately i had to cut the sprocket and sprocket hub to get them off the axle. i tried everything i could think of to get it off but ended up using a torch. good thing is the axle is still straight and i got the bearings changed. now i just have to shit a hub and sprocket

how much for the hub and sprocket shipped to 28574

hey can u do 100 for the hub and sprocket shipped. i really need those two things.

hey guys i am trying to locate a "V" style fitting to replace the "T" fitting in the fuel line. i noticed that on a long pull i am sucking my bowls dry enough to lose power. it seems that the "T" fitting is going to be my problem as it restricts the fuel flow. i don't have money for the pingle valve, but this seems like it will fix my deal. any ideas or does anyone have an extra? no a "Y" fitting will not work because it won't flow right. thanks in advance. BTW i have checked advance auto and auto zone and a couple of tuning places around here.

yeah that is pretty much what i was gonna do. thanks

thanks man. that was pretty fast.

real quick what is the size of the two jam nuts on the rear axle. i am at work and trying to figure out what size wrenchs i need to borrow. and i can't get to the service manual on these computers. thanks guys

damn i am guilty thrice. 1. i have shee in my user name (don't remember typing it otherwise on here and don't reference it by "shee" verbally) 2. i have referred to it as a bike. 3. it has pink plastics. BUT, i am definitely not gay and i will make you day very unpleasant if you say otherwise. my logic for the pink plastics is what is worse than getting beat by someone on a four wheeler of any type than getting beat by any type of four wheeler with pink plastics. that and i am to lazy to put the orange plastics on that came with it (it was previously owned by a chick).

easy gents.... no need to get hostile. in any event, either the pilot air screws or the timing key was it because i finally got it running saturday thanks for all the input and ideas fellas and keith me and my buddy's are planning a trip to buscoe beach in april if you wanna join us.

no i don't have the stock timing key. and since it is an oem crank i would think that the keyway is in the right spot. I am running one of those 2 stage uni filters(didn't think about that) the trigger on the flywheel passes directly over the pickup coil. is anyone near jacksonville nc who could let me try the cdi swap? and i definitely don't ride in the air screw range, wot giving it hell when i can.(unless my ol lady is on the back. thanks. anything else?

yeah that was me. never figured it out just went with what worked. so i guess my next step is going to be resetting the gap to .20.i have been thinking about jetting also. the vito's pistons and reeds say to rejet but i haven't had it running yet to do any real diagnosing.

ok i flipped the timing key around and now it sounds like it wants to fire but it won't. the pickup gap is set at .24 because with my previous set up that is the only setting at which it would fire. i am going to reset the pickup gap to .20. hopefully i can get it running this weekend because i am having withdrawals.

the tors is removed and the choke tube is installed. i also tried tapping the bowls with the a screwdriver thinking the floats might be sticking... still nothing. i am using octane booster because any octane over 93 is not readily available to me and i required higher octane for the old head which was shaved(also why i refer to the new one as fresh since it is not milled) i haven't tried swapping the key around yet but i plan to this evening and the carb slides are in the right way and the carbs are sync'd. haven't done a leak down test but i will look into it and i used high temp copper rtv to seal the case. while i am at it i will go ahead and pull the carbs and clean them. i am really hoping that the timing key is just backwards. thanks guys. any other thoughts.

ok i just rebuilt the top end with vito's pistons std bore, 2 stage carbon fiber reeds and pro circuit exhaust. i put a fresh stock head and crank in also. it has a +4 key in and my jetting is 280, 25, 3rd clip, and 2 and quarter turns out on the air screw. ele is about 100 ft above. new plugs and cleaned the air filter. running 93 with octane booster at 32:1. and 130psi in both cylinders. And yes i searched first. Now with that said here is the problem. I have Fuel, Spark, Air and Compression (everything required for combustion if i remember correctly) but guess what...... nothing. i tried pop starting it and it only popped a little bit and backfired a couple of times. the head got a little warm but not the pipes. i am dumbfounded. the plugs are wet and black in both cylinders, obviously because the motor isn't firing.... right? While i am writing this it ran across my mind that if the timing key was installed backwards may be that could be the reason it is acting retarded (pun intended). Btw i put the key in with the "ledge" on the forward side of the crank (in the direction of rotation). thanks in advance.

pm sent

here are the pics of the head crank and pistons. the flywheel as no play in it and the cylinders are fine. i am gonna open the case up tomorrow.

i have already had the stator cover off and it is not all rusted. no water no dirt or anything. i am pretty sure the reason the piston was all smashed up is because of the poor job the machine shop did on the head. the left side has more material removed than the right side. so the guy who had it before me probably didn't notice that flaw. the piston with the broke skirt was on that side also. it was also all banged up. i am going to take some pics and post them. still working on getting a crank and a head. if anyone has either plz let me know.

well i have a small problem with that. i really don't have all the money in the world. i am looking for the most comepetive pricing possible. i will only need one piston if i cant salvage the one good one that i pulled. as long as the windows are the same size i will be able to get away with re ringing it. i am not ready to go to a stroker setup but would definitely like to have a cool head with like 20cc domes. anyone got one they wanna get rid of?