ColumbianaBanshee

This might help. I am actually in the process of adding them to my quad (got for free) and wanted to know the same answer. I plan to try them on both sides and run against my friend's 525 Outlaw on pavement (running start bogged down in 2nd for 2 city size block distance) to see if there is any difference in the low end pull, mid and then high end (averaged over multiple runs). We did this when comparing a Dynoport 2into1 pipe against a DMC low-mid pipe to see which one pulled stronger on the bottom (I ride woods). Bought my quad for $1500 and the guy gave me both pipes for free and I'm too cheap to pay $$$ for something that really doesn't effect the fun factor I have when riding. By the way on pavement the Dynoports let me keep up with his Outlaw (only about 1 quad back) while the DMC's dropped me back about 3-4 quad lengths by the time we ran the 2 city block distance. On dirt and on the trail it was impossible to notice any differences (stock pipes were very noticeably weak on the bottom and mid and I did have trouble keeping in the pipe). I am using this 1 quad distance with the same exact setup on both my and his quad to see if the spacers do anything. Should have everything back together in about a week and see what happens. Quoted from Trinity's website "Yamaha Banshee Reed Spacers Part: n/a Trinity's 1/2" or 3/4" reed spacers manipulate intake air so you can adjust how hard the engine kicks when you open the throttle. Different sizes of reed spacers give you the ability to fine tune your quad's powerband to your personal preference. Moving the reed cage further back slightly shifts power toward the bottom end, while leaving it forward and shifting the manifold back will tend to lean towards high RPM."

Was riding and a friend behind me said my alignment is off as the rear is pulling to the right. After a lot of screwin with the chain adjustments we were unable to get the carrier square (t) with the swingarm. No accidents, bearings are tight, etc... We got out a car frame measuring tram and took measurements of both sides of the bikes frame and it all lines up (except for grab bar area. damn six-pack rack and wheelies don't mix). We also measured from the center of the lower a-arm ball joints to the top swingarm-to-carrier mount and they are within 1/16 of an inch. It actually looks like the mount brackets that are welded around the round part of the carrier itself are slightly offset at the top mount bolt (favoring a closer chain side). This seems to cause the chain side of axle hub to be 7/8 of an inch closer to lt front lower ball joint then the rt side. It is actually very visible now that someone pointed it out. Has anyone heard of this. Again frame and swingarm are definitely not bent, but appears carrier is welded wrong from the factory. Is this a common issue? I can take pix of it, but it is really hard to tell without seeing it in person (3D). Any known fixes out there other then buying a new or aftermarket carrier!

I do understand what you are saying, but still feel that the smoothness of the pipe is beneficial in trail and tight area riding. Just as high performance cars like the Bugatti sport an x-pipe to connect the exhaust gases together so that all cylinders work in sequence to push air through the mufflers, this is the single reason Dynoport does this. Yes you can rev higher with a dual pipe setup but at the loss of efficiency and torque because it takes longer to get back in the powerband (more fuel and throttle input) with duals compared to single pipe. Unless I plan on running nearly full throttle non-stop (to possibly feel the 1 or 2 extra horses), there is no reason to run duals when trail riding. Now for overall top end power (wide open throttle only) a dual setup might be better(example: drag cars exhaust out 8 heads), but just physics and the fact that every high performance car runs some time of ?? into 1 or x-pipe setup shows overall 2into1's should be better. Otherwise my Mustang's Bassani exhaust would have 8 separate head pipes and exhaust pipes sticking out its ass. The reason for Banshee HQ is not to bash anyones setup. We are all Banshee riders. We are here to support each other and help to beat the snot out of the 4-strokes out there regardless of how lame you may think someones setup is. I plan to keep the 2into1's as they were cheap (free) and I have no intention of paying 400-600 for a dual setup for a handful of horses which I won't even feel are there. I did that with my $1500 car exhaust and regret it everyday (until I hammer it in the tunnels around Pittsburgh). 99.9% of the engineers in the world can't be wrong by connecting exhausts together for power and efficiency. Now since you started! Dyno sheets are worthless! Unless run on the same dynamometer, at the same time in the day with the same temp and humidity, you can experience horsepower differences in the reading. I work at a Harley shop and I am an avid tech for our dyno. I've dyno'd bikes that ran worse with pipes and jetting then factory setup because of the time of day the run was made only to have the run done again the next day with a completely different outcome. I have seen differences of 10-15 horses on a weak 100 hp Harley due to humidity. Now unless those dyno charts were done on a newer SAE J1349 machine, which adjusts to these differences (very few of these machines in the world) your dyno readings can be used to wipe and flush down a toilet. Our dyno is only 3 years old and it does not run the new standard. As a matter of fact, neither does Dynoport, Paul Turner or Pro-Circuit because the machines cost so damn much money. I'm not a mechanic but I am a tech geek that has been running a dyno for about 6 months and I know pipes (original post says I built the silencer out of a pro-circuit can that I gutted for airflow match to the 2into1 pipe). I just don't know shit about jetting because most of what I work with is fuel injected and programming a CPU is my niche.

I've been reading these 2into1 posts to get info on my Dynoports for better jetting ideas. So far I absolutely love the pipes. It all depends on how you are riding. For normal trail riding and hill climbing I think they are much better than dual pipes. I have yet to find anyone that can release their clutch with no throttle input and just let the idle (normal speed idle) pull the quad forward without stalling. It sputters a bit but doesn't stall. Can't do that with duals. Also the motor runs smoother. Just rode the Marienville bike trail in PA this past Sunday for the first time with Dynoports on. Worked it up the rock hill without 1 stall, and lugged it over the rough stuff in 3rd up and down the hills without having to keep shifting. Before this I was always shifting to keep in on the band (stock pipes of course). Plus you cant beat the used price of them.

Need help figuring out where to start on jetting for Dynoport exhaust. Here are my mods. Stock cylinders with .60 wiseco pro-lite pistons and slightly shaved heads. Previously with .40 OEM pistons and shaved heads had 126 pounds in each cylinder but no longer have compression test avail to check now so we will use the 126 lb rating (shouldn't mean much with jetting). still have stock filter box, but put clamp on foam filter kit and have outerwear lid replacement cover over the stock box (no lid anymore). was running stock exhaust with silencer baffles removed (still had end caps on though) and had it perfectly jetted with stock pilot and needle setting and a 240 main. put on dynoport pipe with remade pro-circuit silencer to match the barker silencer that comes with the dynoport pipe but with slightly better flow (no spark arrester). this gave me an extremely clean idle with both cylinders sounding perfectly in sync, but here is my issue. it feels like sometimes the off idle throttle hesitates a little before it kicks in, mid-range seems flawless, but top end is sometimes bad. the off idle hesitation is consitent, but the full throttle issue is inconsistent. sometimes there is mad power and sometimes if feels flat. I am thinking I need to make needle and main jet adjustments? When I spoke with Dynoport they said a stock Banshee jetting is fine for a stock engine and intake, but with my changes they can't give a suggestion. there is no doubt the pipe is better than what i had stock being that i gained about 3 more quad lengths against my friends suzuki 400 than i had without the dynoports on in a street drag. also top end is actually unexpectedly faster once it gets itself through the carb issues. the pipe was free and since it is better than stock i plan to keep it. plus when at mid throttle the cylinders get in a perfect harmony and sound like a jet engine whining.