Black01Shee

Got it all figured out, after 10 wraps of the wire was no good tried 5 still the same problem, then i tried 2 and now it works perfectly. I also had to calibrate the speed and i did so by holding a gps while im riding and comparing the speeds. after several adjustemnts to the wheel size the right number for the stock front tire turned out to be 1490 if anyone needs to know.

Ok i also ran into another problem, the rpm sensor is not reading correctly at above 6000 rpm it just jumps back down to like 4000 and becomes inaccurate. Im running BR8ES plugs and have the rpm wire wounded 10 times tightly around the spark plug wire by the spark plug.

I got my trail tech vapor computer today i cant seem to figure out how to install the speed sensor/magnet thing. I did some searching already but cant find any solid answers can someone direct me step by step please. Thanks

I just replaced my axle bearings/seals and so did my friend with another banshee. He got the all balls bearing and seal kit and i got new factory bearings and seals. I noticed that the all balls seals had little metal springs around the inside of the seals. and the factory seals did not. im guessing these are to make a tighter seal around the axle, will i be ok without those springs?

Wont that scuff on the carrier allow dirt/water to get inside?

Judging by the video you can see that wear caused by the rear sprocket you think ill be able to reuse it?

Well i was riding today and out of nowhere my rear skidplate nailed a huge rock but everything seemed ok so i kept riding. About 10 minutes later i started to hear some metal clanking from the rear so i stop to check it out. The 2 of the 4 skidplate mounts ripped off and the skidplate was kinda danglin and thats what the noise was. So i figure no big deal ill order a new skidplate when i get home. I kept riding hittin jumps and stuff then all of a sudden the chain starts binding up, it gets really tight and then really loose. I get home and put the rear end up in the air and it looks like i must have damaged the bearings and carrier i think once the bearings went the rear sprocket started to wear into the carrier. What should i do i think im gonna need to replace the carrier and bearings how hard is it to do anyone have any links to step by step directions? thanks for any help Heres a vid so you guys can see what im talking about http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfAadEhsvZo

All i got is a Dynoprot 2 into 1 Pipe and Modquad 2 into 1 intake system No snorkel 260 mains.

OK im having an idle problem and it all started when i decided to unscrew that 8mm bolt inside the throttle assembly that holds all the throttle plates together. After i retightened it my bike only idles sometimes and when it doesnt i snap the throttle a couple times and then itll idle fine again. I know its that damn little tors button inside the throttle assembly. I think its just not being pushed at the right time now when i let go off the throttle and makes the bike die. Heres a video so you can see what im talking about http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tismjml5NiE...re=channel_page What is the proper way that throttle assembly with that 8mm bolt needs to be adjusted to.

I see, well im looking for any kind of mods i want to gain some hp but not loose any reliabilty i do mostly woods riding with a few 6th gear wot runs here and there. I read about advancing the timing +4 how can i do that?

Me and my buddy bought 2 banshees and we want to do some mods. He says hes gonna give his bike to this shop that he knows about to tune it (its not running properly) and he said the guy at the shop will put some kind of a pin in the flyweel and that will give it 2 more HP is that possible? how does that work? also what are some easy to do mods that i can do myself to mine (i have good mechanical ability). I already have 2 into 1 dynoport exhuast.

first ill try #5, #3 wont work becuase i already loosened out the adjusters all the way and there was still a little clearance between the end of the adjusting bolt and the axle housing and i tried prying it to move it a little more but it wont, its defenetly at its loosest setting so the next step ill do is #4 if this chain dont work out. thanks for your help guys

I have a little slack its not super tight, like i said theres about 1/2 inch of chain movement.

you mean itll wear out so that itll be ok soon or wear out to the point where the chain is garbage. The adjustment is already at the loosest setting.

My chain was really lose and i also installed a 13 tooth in the front so it eas even looser after that, so i pulled a link and now its really tight, even after the adjusters are all the way out. There is about 1/2 inch of play on the top part of the chain between the front and back sprocket, should i be worried? will it loosen up eventually from riding?

well the plugs were new and after about 3 hours of riding one side (about 1/2) of the porcelain is a very dark brown almost black color the other side still looks like new. How do i adjust the needle clip

I have a slight bog right before i hit powerband, its more noticible when under load at low rpms and throttle is applied, but once it hits powerband its fine after that. I have a dynoport 2 into 1 pipe and snorkel removed. My air screws are 2 turns out

I love the power there is much more bottom end and mid range power and the sound is awsome, i had my friends sit and listen while i flew up and down my street and they said it sounds like a street bike but better, it is a tad on the loud side though (a little louder than the fmf fatties i had on there before).

Performance wise just the exhuast and fmf jet kit. If you wanna see what she looks like look at my other post. Oh yea and one more question after a few wot runs with the new exhuast i took the spark plugs out and they were very clean with a slight brownish/grayish hue on the porcelian is that good?

Well i managed to get it on, what i did was i used a spark plug defouler. I put it inbetween the two pipes and wrenched the defouler so it expands and pushes the pipes apart, then i installed it. Everything went pretty good exept the rubber collar was hard to install bewteen the pipe and silencer due to the larger exhuast diamater in that section. I couldnt get the exhaust all the way on to the motor but you guys said thats normal in the beggining right? this is what it looks like Is that ok?

Im afraid ill break the pipes if i try to pry them apart, what angle should i go in there with the pry bar?

IM trying to install a brand new dynoport 2 into 1 exhuast on my 01 banshee, but i cant seem to get the pipe on to the exhuast ports i can put either side of the pipe on but when i try to slip both on the there at the same time theres just barely not enough clearance. can i use a dremel tool to grind down the inside of the pipe a little to make it fit? or what should i do.