UNCC Grad

Sold the banshee so I have some parts for sale. Stock lower arms, one has a dent - $45 shipped Stock tie rods - $25 shipped Stock pipes and silencers - $45 shipped Stock nerfs and foot pegs - $45 shipped I also have some stock maier white front fenders, one has a crack where it attaches to the support, some Maier red tank and radiator plastic with graphics(somewhat faded and mounting hole are worn) Make me an offer for all of it and get it for a deal. Sorry no pics of the arms and tie rods.

I have a 1989 Winner 17' ski boat with 3.0 Merc i/o. Very good shape and reliable. I'm asking $2,800 for the boat and trailer but I would really like to find a 250r or another Shee. Located about 30 minutes north of Charlotte, NC.

I agree, I have roughly the same mods as you (FMF Gnarly, k&n, no lid) and I'm running stock pilots with 300 mains. No bog here at 700 ft. Check your needle setting, should be on the 3rd clip (middle one).

How bout 'em! And they don't even have Steve Smith on the field yet. Our running game looks nasty again this year!

Thanks! I've got some 450 shocks coming that I won on Ebay but I can't get in touch with the guy for a tracking number. I sent a dispute with Paypal. It's been almost 2 weeks and they still haven't shown up from CA

I couldn't have said it better than 98. Mine was doing the same thing but caused my throttle to stick and got into a nasty crash. JB weld that SOB so you don't get hurt!

Here's mine...it's not there yet but I'm getting closer

Still have the stock pegs and nerfs for $45 shipped

Send me a picture via PM

Sounds pretty typical of a Banshee. They aren't known for low end. You can do some things to them to help keep it in the powerband at lower RPMs. 2:1 carb, FMF Gnarly/PT Mid/Dynoport 2:1 pipes, drop a tooth on the front sprocket, etc. One thing you might check is the setting on the needle. If it isn't set just right, it will cause a bogging before the powerband hits. What pilot are you running also?

Porting won't come until after I get my suspension and handling up to par. Can't go any faster than I can keep her straight! :biggrin:

I'm looking to spend about $400 and don't know which way to go. 98 Banshee, Burgard 2+1 arms, stock shocks, FMF Gnarly pipes, stock airbox with no lid & K&N. Tread is getting somewhat low on my Kenda rears bu thtey could likely last a couple more months. Rear fender is cracked but stitched with zip ties and is holding. I am considering the following: Works shocks w/rezzies - $350 ish Steering stabilzer - $125 New rear Maxxis Razrs - $175 Used rear fender - $100 Noss head - $200 Adjustable timing plate - $50

Looking for some aftermarket shocks setup for 2+1 arms and a 200# rider.

Email sent

Sorry to hear about your back! That's one nice R you have. I wish I had the spare cash! Good luck with the sale, but more importantly with your health.

Man that sucks! I hope he finds it. I have my Shee in a simlar style building but have it chained to my 1500# Cub Cadet garden tractor. Nothing a set of bolt cutters couldn't take care of but they would have to work for it. If someone wants so steal something bad enough, they can find a way.

Thanks but I don't care for the DG style lines. I'm looking more for something like a PRM or AC Racing.

My local tire shop can get me a good price on 20" Carlisle Turf Tamers or Badlands. The Badlands look real similar to holeshots. For all around trail riding which would be the better tire? The turf tamers are 3 ply while the badlands are 2 ply.

I got my 98 Shee on Ebay for $800 and a shotgun. The guy had it listed as a "Banchee" with a buy it now price of $1300 and he was only 3 hours drive from me. That would likely never happen to me again but I stole it from him for that price. This is how it sat when I bought it.

I'm at 300 mains, stock pilot and needle on 3rd clip, 1 1/2 turns out with my FMF Gnarlys, no airbox lid and K&N with outerwares. I haven't done a plug chop yet but it runs and idles smooth and pulls hard all the way to full throttle. I'm at 700 ft elevation.

Looking for a PRM or AC racing bumper

My local shop said he can order some Works dual rates with rezzies for $350+ tax. This seems like a pretty good deal to me. I compared the specs on the Elkas to the Works and neither have rebound or compression adjustment, only preload. I think for my application and budget, the Works may be the way to go. I didn;t understand that the 2+1 arms need to be valved differently. I thought it was the length of the shock that was the difference in the regular vs. 2+1 shock. It makes sense now that they would have to be valved stiffer due to more force being transferred to the shock with the extra width of the a-arms.

Anyone? I'd like to get some before this weekend so I need to get moving on them I'm thinking something in the 15.5" to 16" range would be good. Maybe some Raptor 660/700 or 400ex shocks? I'd like the YFZ but I just don;t see paying $250 for factory shocks.

I've recently put on some Burgard 2+1 arms on my Shee and using the stock shocks, it seems to sit a little low. I'm looking for some longer shocks that will raise the ride height a little over the stocker which I think are 14.75". The prices for the YFZ 450 shocks are getting a little crazy, so which others will bolt right in? TRX 450r, LTR 450, KFX 400, LTZ 400, 400ex, etc?

Not yet, but I need to. I was thinking of using YFZ shocks or buying some Works dual rate. I don't race MX, mainly just trail and field riding and horsing around so I don't need a $1,000 set of shocks up front.