dsmrx7

Try the choke and check if your pilots are clogged if the choke doesn't work. Mine had the exact same problem...

Okay guys, one of the needle clips was LOOSE and the needle clips were on the Richest setting. I moved the needle clip up one and put on some 250 Mains and cleaned the carbs once more. (by the way I'm at about 1200 ft and keep the airbox cover) After re-assembling, it started after 4 KICKS. I was soooo relieved. It also pulls waaaay stronger with the 250 Mains on now. I can't believe I overlooked the Needles. Thanks again...I'm starting to LOVE the Banshee again...

The carbs are practically "New." I've already removed the Pilots and blew compressed air through the circuit twice and replaced the crossover tube. The 200 Mains are perfect for the setup. I had 225 mains on and it was way too rich. The plug chop yielded a nice chocolate brown with the 200 Mains. My Bro's Banshee has the same Mains with FMF Fatties and K&N Filter. I've also replaced my reeds with a "better" set that I had for spare. It's never had this problem before the rebuild...but at least I can still ride it... :cool:

I have a 96' Banshee with a fresh Motor Compression is at 135 PSI (all new seals, bearings, Leak down tested, etc). Here's the problem, I cannot get it statred with the Kickstarter. I've checked and cleaned the carbs twice. Once it's started, it runs like a champ on steroids. I also cannot get it to "Hot start" without Push-starting it. I've swapped the stator, Carbs, and coil from my Bro's banshee and still the same. (My Bro's Banshee has NO Problems.) Pilots are 25 and Mains are 200 on Stock Miluni's. It has Bills Pipes, K&N Filter, 66mm Wiseco's, Billet Water Pump Impeller, and mild Trail Port. I think it may be the wiring. The previous owner deleted all the switches and lights. There's 2 wires spliced together, looks like the wiring to the key...?

Sound EXACTLY like mine... I'm still trying to figure out the problem. Stator tested OK....

I need a pair of 200 Main Jets. PM me. Thanks, Anthony.

PM'd

There's an arm that the clutch cable connects to on the motor. That arm goes into the motor. There's an oil seal the arm goes through and under the oil seal is a needle bearing.

It's the Bearing that goes on the Top Part of the Motor Case...

Hey guys, I need a Clutch Release Lever Bearing. Mine's Shot. Thanks.

What about Toyota 102 Sealant (pt # 00295-00103). It says for Oil Pan/Camshaft housing...

I need to know if there's an alternative to Yama Bond. Someone suggested 3 bond, but nobody has here on Guam. I know Permatex will not work. Could I use the OEM Toyota Sealant for the Oil Pan? That's all I can find. Thanks Everyone...

Had a set on my shot motor Banshee. Dont know if they were any good though. I did know that they block the petcock valve and changing plugs were a challenge too, but the silencers were alloy all the way to the back. It has a nice popping sound at idle when the packing is burnt out and screams a nice tune at WOT. Put em on my bro's Banshee and they werent any different from the FMF Fatties except for sounding meaner and louder :biggrin: .

Nope, Im pretty sure its 1 down and 4 up. My brother confirmed it too. Gears look really good, no chips, no shavings, nothing. Maybe I got a Special Edition Banshee with a 5-speed :biggrin: .

I'm in the process of rebuilding right now and have split the cases. Everything in the tranny side "looks" okay. I'm going to check more closely when I start putting it back together. Thanks... :cool:

My 96' Banshee doesn't have a 6th gear. It ran real good and shifted smooth all the way to 5th gear and then won't go into the "6th gear." Did some Banshee's not come with a 6th gear?

Sounds like the problem I had. It turned out my Crank Bearing (shifter side) was toast, which in turn ruined the Crank Seal causing an air leak and leaning out my left cylinder... Rebuild time...

Heres some pics of how we cut my bro's fenders. Before: One side.. Side view of finished product. Whats left of the fenders. A dremel with a cut-off wheel sucks for the job. It melts the plastic and gets messy and throws off the line. So we used a hack saw blade a finished off the edge with 80 grit sandpaper and smoothened it out with 400 grit. Hope this helps. :cool:

I had a similar idea, but I was thinking of welding the thermometer to a Brass Tee. Your's is much more easier...

Yeah, he's hooking me up with a Trued Crank and some other little parts that I need to finish my Bike... :cool:

I'm looking for a Trued and Welded Crankshaft. Please PM me. Thanks, Anthony.

All but the Green FC. That's my Bro's. Here's a link to my latest Build: http://guamroadracers.invisionplus.net/?mf...;showtopic=1702 :cool: :biggrin: Sorry for the Off Topic...

I've Purchased many items from Minkia and all was good, no problems.

Crank Bearing and Seal Wasted... I originally Purchased the Bike for $500 and have since put about $2000+ in parts and lots of my time. It's like being in a bad Marriage. Overall, working on the motor was easier than Sunday Morning. Gotta wait for more parts to get in to finish...

Okay, back to the subject... I had a feeling that my crank seal was bad... My stator is probably weak also... I pulled off the head and was disgusted...This is the second brand new piston set and head that got F@CKED up with less than 2 hours run time... So I decide to just go all the way and Split the Cases. More Problems... Shavings and old piston pieces...