ryskie22
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Posts posted by ryskie22
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Hi, I have been working on a guys banshee for the past month or so on the weekends and have ran into problems every step of the way. it really was a real piece when i recieved it. THe skirts were broke off the pistons, the jugs were already on their last overbore and WAY over specs for just a ring job, the cool head had no o ring, just gasket material, the tors had been broken off, both carbs leaked about a quart a piece every minute and most every engine bolt was missing. Well I rebuilt it and cleaned a fixed everything, got it back together and went to start it, sweet, it started second kick. ran rough but a carb sync and new plugs would fix that. so i put the plugs in it and tinkered around with the carbs. I got it running and it cut out still and bogged over half throttle still then all of a sudden it backfired and died. after that I could not get any spark from it at all. I might get a week light blue spark every thirty kicks. so I got on here to learn how to disconnect the tors stuff, only two places did i change, the black box and the carb tors connectors. i went to check for spark again and i still have nothing, so i pulled the left cover off and checked the wires. then a pulled the flywheel and checked the rest of the wiring, all for proper resistance and cont. then i noticed that there was no flywheel key. anywhere. not on the magnets, on the floor or int he engine and i didnt remember hearing it drop either. I dont know what could be preventing spark. the ohms seem right for everything and the coils good.
also I can not figure this out, since i did not find a flywheel key, im assuming when it backfired it really through the flywheel way out of time. but what i can see is even if the flywheel is 45 degrees off, it should still make spark right? just not at the rigth time right. thank you all in advance.
one more thing is i have ran into is that both plug wires half to have plugs in them or they will not fire so if u got one wire disconected and the other with a plug in it, it wont spark. just make sure that the wires have plugs in them and grounded. i would just leave one plug in the cylinder and the other laying on the top and kick it and see what happens. this may not be your problem but its food for thought.
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i hope he used new seals..lol..
yes i used new seals
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need some help here, i just put together a 421 cheetta cub this weekend and into the bike, fired it off and noticed very shortly that the right pipe was smoking alot more than the left, gave it rev and holy shit i could paint the wall with trans fluid from the crankcase. i tore it all back down thinking maybe i had a defective seal? not so and it wasnt installed backwards either. checked the cases were the yamabond was and looked good, cant see any place that it could have leaked? everything is new except the cases. after some hair loss it hit me as i was staring at the crank, on the keyway on the wet side for the drive gear i thought maybe it leaked through there,so i put the gear on and slid the keyway in and the gear actually rocked on the crank a little with two different keys! so my queston is could it be leaking through the keyway from excessive play in it, my old hotrod 350 crank wasn't like that. the key went in farly hard. well im leaving my cases split for a while to see if anybody else has this problem or any other ideas becouse i have no more ideas of why. thanks for everybody who replies
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i ended up building my own tank and installed the efi sender and pump into it and its in the factory banshee tank location, its aprox 1.9 gallons, and it so far has seem to have worked pretty good.
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i do have some 21-12-10 18 paddle by sand tires unlimited that i was thinking maybe i could have comp cut to get the rotating weight down, maybe those will work and a 8 over swingarm, what do you guys think.
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ok heres the beast
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ok here it goes ive have put in a 2000 injected gsxr 750 into my banshee, my questons are that what would you put on it for tires 14 paddle? superlights? and i was thinking of a 8 inch swingarm, whats your guys thoughts? its supose to have 132 to 141 horsepower, it is k@n and piped so im thinking more toward the 140 mark. as far as weight, it weighs 425 pounds, well any input would be great. thanks bansheehq and the guys and gals, has helped out alot.
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So this bike is ported too?
You didn't tell us that in the original post...
i know and im sorry for that, i forgot about it, so yes it is ported
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its not ported that crazy and dont know who ported it butt it was done by someone that knows what there doing just cant remember the name,also have campared it to stock jugs and the exhaust is not even 1mm higher from the top of the jug(head surface) to the top of the exhaust port,and it has wiseco pistons in it,i know if you rase the exhaust port you will loose compression, i understand that,thats why i checked it this time before reinstalling the cylinders, as far as squish, didint check that but i use yamaha gaskets,if that helps. the transfer ports on the side are opened up alot though and the intake side is a lot bigger but not huge. the only reason i checked the running compression was to see if there was a difference becouse there always is just how much. i am a auto mechanic and do this every day for a a living, when i do this test with a engine with valves it does make a differnce and a automobile engie spins over much faster or even a 4 stroke quad than you could ever kick a banshee with that short ass kicker that they have. its easy just pull one plug screw in tester and fire it up on one cylinder and see what you get at idle that would be close to having a starter in my mind, but its a two stroke, if it dont have valves im not that educated on this, thats why im askingThe thing is porting will change compression numbers hugely. 150 psi is not really close to where I would assume they would be, unless he is running too much squish clearance and has a 1mm or so higher exhaust port. Hence, I need to know and dont like to make assumptions. There are too many times when people on here just want to shoot something off and dont really worry about what the real answer could be or should be. You have to ask questions, get facts, and then formulate an answer based on that.In example: Sunday I am chilling on the couch watching some tv. The neighbor guys come over and say the little kia sephia commuter car one of them owns broke down. The clutch apparently doesn't disengage and allow you to shift gears. I go through everything and tell them it sounds like the clutch slave cylinder or the clutch master cylinder went out. However, I ask some questions and tell them to see if there is anything that looks like shredded fiberglass in the trans bell housing. They come back and say yeah. I say ok, well your clutch disc is probably toast also. So the one guy takes the car in and has the repair shop put a clutch master, and a clutch slave cylinder on it. Never tells them the clutch is bad, or what I told him. They do the repairs at the tune of $300 and give him the car back, car drives like shit and will now pop out of gear and do crazy lurching stuff while it is running down the road.
The moral of the story is, ask questions, get the right answers, listen to them, and life is then cheaper and easier.
So do the compression test right, ask your builder some questions, and check your squish.
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i have had mixed input on fuel and on how to check the compression, i have 19cc domes in a prodesign cool head on a 350 with a hotrod crank, advanced 4 degrees, 33 keihn pwk carbs jetted at 165 mains and 48 pilots, also the tops of the jugs were surfaced due to imprefections, t4 pipes, now my queston is that should i be running straight 110 or 50/50 mix with pump or straight pump gas? ive checked compression many different ways, i really dont know what the proper way is but here it goes, i first kicked the shit out of it and it never got over 155,now if i check one cylinder while the other is running it has 180 to185 idleing of course, and the cylinders are even and this is a fresh topend. so what is the proper way is it that i cant kick it fast enough? from the info ive found this should have 180, oh and i am at sea leval to 500 feet, thanks for everyones help on this its been a question ive had for a long time. also just recently did a plug shop and ran it up hill into 4th gear and held it wide open warmed up and a new set of plugs, found after cutting the plug open to see the base that the porcelin was white and at the bottom was a aprox 2 millimeter of a golden brown ring with the mods shown above, what do you guys think maybe a little lean right on the edge?
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sorry about all the other posts guys dont know what the hell happend
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i have tried it with the throttle wide open and it makes no difference!Turn the bike off....Screw the tester threads into the spark plug hole with the other plug still in.
Hold the throttle wide open and kick like hell... when it stops, take the reading. Do the same for the other cylinder.
Sounds like 155 PSI is a little low for that setup... that would probably run on pump 93-94 octane without problems.
Test it again with the above instructions... see what you get.
But the general rule is 150 PSI and above is the race gas pressures. You could most likely get away with pump gas, but I would mix 110 and 93 half and half (50/50) to be safe. We don't know for sure what your compression is right now. Do it again and report back.
But you should be higher than 155 for sure
I have 190 PSI and I run 105 octane (116/93 mixed 50/50) without problems.
Good luck
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i have had mixed input on fuel and on how to check the compression, i have 19cc domes in a prodesign cool head on a 350 with a hotrod crank, advanced 4 degrees, 33 keihn pwk carbs jetted at 165 mains and 48 pilots, also the tops of the jugs were surfaced due to imprefections, now my queston is that should i be running straight 110 or 50/50 mix with pump or straight pump gas? ive checked compression many different ways, i really dont know what the proper way is but here it goes, i first kicked the shit out of it and it never got over 155,now if i check one cylinder while the other is running it has 180 to185 idleing of course, and the cylinders are even and this is a fresh topend. so what is the proper way is it that i cant kick it fast enough? from the info ive found this should have 180, oh and i am at sea leval to 500 feet, thanks for everyones help on this its been a question ive had for a long time.
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i have had mixed input on fuel and on how to check the compression, i have 19cc domes in a prodesign cool head on a 350 with a hotrod crank, advanced 4 degrees, 33 keihn pwk carbs jetted at 165 mains and 48 pilots, also the tops of the jugs were surfaced due to imprefections, now my queston is that should i be running straight 110 or 50/50 mix with pump or straight pump gas? ive checked compression many different ways, i really dont know what the proper way is but here it goes, i first kicked the shit out of it and it never got over 155,now if i check one cylinder while the other is running it has 180 to185 idleing of course, and the cylinders are even and this is a fresh topend. so what is the proper way is it that i cant kick it fast enough? from the info ive found this should have 180, oh and i am at sea leval to 500 feet, thanks for everyones help on this its been a question ive had for a long time.
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i have had mixed input on fuel and on how to check the compression, i have 19cc domes in a prodesign cool head on a 350 with a hotrod crank, advanced 4 degrees, 33 keihn pwk carbs jetted at 165 mains and 48 pilots, also the tops of the jugs were surfaced due to imprefections, now my queston is that should i be running straight 110 or 50/50 mix with pump or straight pump gas? ive checked compression many different ways, i really dont know what the proper way is but here it goes, i first kicked the shit out of it and it never got over 155,now if i check one cylinder while the other is running it has 180 to185 idleing of course, and the cylinders are even and this is a fresh topend. so what is the proper way is it that i cant kick it fast enough? from the info ive found this should have 180, oh and i am at sea leval to 500 feet, thanks for everyones help on this its been a question ive had for a long time.
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i have had mixed input on fuel and on how to check the compression, i have 19cc domes in a prodesign cool head on a 350 with a hotrod crank, advanced 4 degrees, 33 keihn pwk carbs jetted at 165 mains and 48 pilots, also the tops of the jugs were surfaced due to imprefections, now my queston is that should i be running straight 110 or 50/50 mix with pump or straight pump gas? ive checked compression many different ways, i really dont know what the proper way is but here it goes, i first kicked the shit out of it and it never got over 155,now if i check one cylinder while the other is running it has 180 to185 idleing of course, and the cylinders are even and this is a fresh topend. so what is the proper way is it that i cant kick it fast enough? from the info ive found this should have 180, oh and i am at sea leval to 500 feet, thanks for everyones help on this its been a question ive had for a long time.
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just wondering if any one new the torque specs for the trix performance head and the sequence thanks for any help getting the shee back together
thanks for the info
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so just wondering if anyone knows if you can camp in the open sand at coos bay on a holiday weekend without reservations? we were told no of course, but winchester youve never needed reservations, just pull right in and park in the open sand and pay or dues. what i find funny is they say the same thing about winchester about reservations,you must have them, but when you get there its no big deal been doing it for years! never done it at coos bay never thought it would be a problem beings its 10 miles long, looking for some input on any buddy who chanced it like that and or any one who would be willing to let us camp within 150 feet from there post and use there number, preferd area would be spinreal side. thanks for everyone who replies.
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just wondering if any one new the torque specs for the trix performance head and the sequence thanks for any help getting the shee back together
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I am at 2000 ft. I would start out at 160 and go down from there.
josh
ok thanks for the info i really appreciate it, for now i put the 165s back in and will do a plug check at the sand when i get there,beings that i have fuel to them now, i think that i thought it was runnig lean,but in theary it was do to runnig out of fuel in the bowls. i will get some 160s just in case.
chris
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Yea I have the same carbs. They also came with the jetting that Keihin's web page.
CGL and CEL are going to be the same taper
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It could be your float hight is messed up but that is pretty big jetting. I was just wondering if your running out of gas feeling wasnt being caused by to big of main jet.
What Needles you got in it. Again most people swap them out for CEL's
josh
im not sure exactly, what ever they come with out of the box,48CGL? do you have the same carbs? didnt they come with 165 mains? on keihin website thats what they say they come with and thats what mine had in them. should i just leave it and try it now that i have good volume of fuel now? i still need to set the floats though.
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What do you have for mods that require a 168 main. That is pretty big for dual pwk's. Most guys running cubs with pwks are in the 155 range.
they come with 165 mains in 33 pwk's out of the box,its a 350 hotrod crank,ported, cool head with 19cc domes,50 0ver with wisecos, and runs pretty good.
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33 keihin pwk, any one know what the correct float height is in mm or is just getting the seam of the floats parallel with the bowl surface good enough? tried to read on keihin website, but cant open it. just changed the main jet to a 168 and a dual pingal valve becouse it was runnig out of fuel. wanted to get the float height correct before getting er back together.
crank case oil in right cylinder 421 cub
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
just want to say thanks to everyone who replied it ended up being that it was sucking the trans oil through the keyway, little yamabond and shes cured :biggrin: