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I installed a noss cool head and when i started it and let it idle for a while i noticed a very small leak from one of the studs. When i looked, the acorn nut was not even touching the head. I tightened it down, but then the stud came through the top of the acorn nut. These are the stock studs and now i cant get it to stop leaking. I left off the thin metal gasket that was for the stock head, was i supposed to leave this on? or has anyone heard of stock studs not all being the same length?

Yeah i know i just started riding again and needed some plastics, i thought these looked good at the time but miss the classic banshee look, i spent the same as a set of laker plastics too. I had to learn the hard way and im stuck with 'em. but thanks everyone for the help, the head went on quick and easy.

HAHA well its a good thing i didnt get it done i just got a quote from a place here in phoenix that seems like they know what they are doing but i guess ill keep looking. And thanks for the tips on the o-rings using vasoline will make it a lot easier, and i was just thinking of just a dab here and there just so i know it wont fall out, not coating the entire oring. I did read something about perserving the o-ring with grease if you lube the whole thing, is that even true?

Im trying to install my noss head and want to know if it is ok to put some kind of grease on the o-rings to make them seat beter in the grooves. or any other ideas i just dont want any orings getting pinched or something because i didnt get them good and set. on a side note is $125 for a sand blast and $200 for a powdercoat a good deal for a banshee frame?

you could take apart your carb and make sure that your float valve is good. You can check to see if there is a smooth ring around the pointed top where it would seat into the valve and seal off the gas flow. If it has a smoothed out ring and you can see a little ripple in the cone it is bad. Or maybe your float valve clip needs to be adjusted to make sure the floats push the valve up high enough to make a good seal. this should help if the gas is leaking out of the overflow....

Look where he is from, and David from Noss said that he could ship to the UAE but it would be like 40-50 so with the cost of a noss head at about 195 your looking at 245 for a noss shipped(thats without the discount you get for being a bhq member) The domes from noss are 65 but then again you do get a small discount. The trinity is going to be more around 320 +shipping for head with domes. The PD is about the same as the noss, a little more, but you have to change the studs on both the trinity and PD. So if those are really your only two options i would go with trinity because the head does force coolant into the sleeves...but i think you can then only get domes from trinity and those are expensive and not all that common. So i would say that if you can wait for the shipping get a noss and then you can change the domes out with any PD style, install it without replacing the studs, and the noss is a great head.

Thanks for the advice thats what ill probably end up doing. also did you have the stock basket and inner/outer pressure plate things?

mine did this right before it needed a new top end, the one cylinder had decent compression and would run regular, the other had bad compression and would smoke, so try testing the compression. although mine ran ok i could tell that i was loosing power but it still would idle fine

well if the boost bottle doesnt do it try getting an o-ring chain, maybe it wont wear out so much but that sounds a little crazy, you keep up with it that well and it stretched out two links? theres something wrong there... I think the x-ring chains are supposed to stretch the least although i have never run one, and make sure that when you are adjusting your chain that your not making it too tight to begin with. it should be tight when the swingarm is about half way through its pivot. i dont know if this changes that much with a +swinger but just check by siting on the quad and find where the swing arm is farthest from the front sprocket and feel how tight the chain is, if it is really really tight...youre over doing it

i have two white stock shocks that i will give you just pay for the postage. they arent "crap" but they arent very pretty but i guess they are kinda free so if you want let me know my email is [email protected]

I have started doing motor work to my bike and now need a new clutch. My quad now has no where near 90hp that is said to be needed for a lockup...but maybe only 60hp, but i plan on many more upgrades and port work to one day be close to that 90hp. So my question is, because i need a clutch now should i buy the lockup clutch and case and run it with only the 60hp as opposed to buying a racing clutch then having to put in a lockup down the road. So can you even run a lockup with low hp, also how does a lock up work? It looks like it uses weights to create centrifugal force to lever down on the clutch plates, is that even close?

I dont know if this makes any sense but if you think it may be the transmission couldnt you put the bike in 6th gear and try and spin the wheels when it is off, just to see if anything in the trans is frozen, or the clutch is locked up? also i have seen oil in my buddies bike almost white just because he never changed it and just flushed it out and put new oil in and never had any problems with leaks just old i guess

I have the chance to buy some kenda geckos for really cheap and want to know how they perform. I run haulers right now but really need new ones and these seem like they have some serious cups so are they any good?

I was wondering if you use brake caliper paint it would be a little more resistant to chipping, what do you all think?

I saw a banshee with the Dean Sundal long travel a arm kit and couldnt believe the travel it had! Has anyone here done this to thier bike, and what does it ride like. Also how do you go about getting this done?

I have chrome pipes and am trying to black out my bike and want to know what i can use to paint the pipes with, or do i have to powder coat them.....or what? any help is appreciated

I want a dune port but i dont want it to be so peaky that its no fun to just cruise on a nice ride through the dunes, although i want some power if i wanna shoot the hill.

Hey thanks for the advice, i have seen a lot about herrjugs and checked out thier webpage kinda seems like a garage shop type deal. I like that they sound very personal i just want to know how good thier port work holds up to fast or trinity, what do you think?

Yeah those are the tors its easy to take them off you can get a kit with new carb caps from vitos and im sure other dealers aswell. Or you can just un plug everything that is connected to the tors boxes including the littleblack box on the left side of the frame under the front plastic mount.

OK so buyin used is not unusual, would you suggest building new or can you buy a heavily modified banshee and be confident that it will run? It just seems that with this much work done to all these quads that it would be risky. For the new stuff, where is the best place to shop from? Go for port work? suspension work? i am in phoenix az, so if any one knows a good place in the valley to get any of this done please let me know. I have been going to screwie lewies in north phoenix but it seems that whatever lewie tells me goes against everything that is said on this site so i need to know of some quality places. and as for my bikes compression it is about 150 at home -around 2500ft and when i go to the dunes (glamis) around 165-170 im guessing the motor is stock but has noss head with 20cc domes- so these numbers are straight from a chart

I have had a banshee since i bought it new in 01 but left it stock until just recently. Through making some minor mods i have found it to be very expensive. Then i look at the banshees for sale and wonder why i would even buy everything new when these guys say they have 5k in reciepts for just the mods and are asking 3k for the bike. So my question is, does everyone on this site really spend that much money on thier bikes or do they buy some used stuff or do they buy already upgraded bikes. on a side note, is it ok to run 110 octance vp leaded fuel in a banshee? im just unsure about the leaded part

What is wrong with a PJ, i just bought one for this same setup and i hope i didnt make to big of a mistake :ermm:

lol i figured it was something that simple, thanks a lot for the help

Hi all, as you might guess i am very new to working on my bike, i just bought a trininty cv carb setup from ebay and was told that the carb was a 38mm keihin. I looked around and saw that this kit usually comes with a 35mm, so i was just wondering what i measure to find out what size carb it is to see if i infact have a 38mm. Thanks

I have an 01 banshee with minor engine mods and want to know what i should do from here to get the most hp and keep reliability. I have paul turner hi rev pipes, v force 3 reeds, the trinity cv intake with a single 38mm keihin, noos cool head, and 20cc domes. So what should my next move be, thanks for any advice Justin