202banshee

LOL shake down run = I bought it not running and got it running and the shake down was first time taking it out

Have done some searching and have a lil info on subject. Just before I bought the bike it had clutches put in it. It will drag pretty bad. Well I finally got the other probs fixed and got it running right. So havent had much testing time. It will fire up in gear but it jumps a lil. Also at times you gotta keep it revved a bit to keep it running in gear. I do have my idle pretty low. The other day on the one and only shake down run it seemed to wanna die more when I would stop in gear clutch pulled then usual but could have been the tight trail riding I was doing.From what I have read the dragging is very common. But I still took the side cover off and set it with the arrows and the clutch lever. Havent tried it yet. But I noticed that when I pull in the clutch lever the pressure plate backs of more on one side then the other. was wondering if this was anything to be extremely worried about. Also bought Yamalube 4 10w30 to put back in but now am reading that most of you run thicker oil. You think the 10w30 being thinner may help the dragging a little ????? Wanting to spend as little as possible about ready to trade her off. LOL

Mine was the idle was to high. Throttle blades were open to far and didnt have enough air velocity to pull fuel on first start. Mine would fire with starting fluid or by pull starting but never by kicking. But after it started It would start all day long even if cold. Afetr I cleaned the carbs and still nothing. So I set the air screws to 2 turns. With air box still off I backed the idle screws all the way off. Done my best hillbilly carb synch and then turned the idle screws just till they started to raise the slides then fired the bike and set the idle just high enough to run. Worked fine fires on first kick now. Hope this helps. My tors was bad but it didnt effect mine starting at all.

Very intereted could you send pics [email protected] Thanks

What part of midwest you from? Im in KCK

Need the front fenders and grill bad mine are trashed and butcher cut. And Will take them both off your hands for sure Im in Kansas 66106. Also intereted in bars Let me know THANKS. PM'd you but not sure if it went through cause not showing in my sent mail. Thanks again

LOL no sorry should have clarified. Gonna try repacking my FMF's first

Had a guy a at a shop tell me to just go to home depot and get some regular home fiberglass insulation. He said it is the same thing and way cheaper ???? Anyone tried this ????

LOL I havent checked yet but I would imagine that the packing is completely takin out of my silencers. The guy I got it from is notorious for that. He even took the baffles out of his sons 80 raptor LOL So you guys think new packing should do the trick. I know it made a world of diff on my LTR250 ... THANKS

Mine is all blue and the dufuss I bought it from said it was 02 or 01. How can I tell is shee stamped ????

I know a few of you run this way. The main reason I want this option is to quiet it down as much as possible when needed. There is a spot like 4 blocks from my house that I ride at most the time. Dont wanna piss off neighbors anymore then have 2 LOL What and how much metal do I have to take off to get them to slip fit.. I read that one of you used a dremel But where and how much FMF fatty's gold series THANKSZ

When I pull the clutch in all the way it still grabs some. Is there a way to adjust it without opening the side case ?? The lever has no freeplay so I dont think adjusting it there would help, maybe at bottom. Also if I have to open the case can I just take the side panel off that has the phillips head screws?? Or do I have to take the whole side off like online manual said???? Clutches are new the guy I bought it from had them done at a shop. But that is the same shop that couldnt get it to fire up. So maybe they couldnt adjust the clutch correctly ????? :down: :down:

I am by far a banshee expert LOL. But mine was doing the exact same thing when I bought it. Alot of the guys on here helped me a ton. Some one suggested that my idle was to high. The slide has to big of a gap to have enough velocity to pull the fuel like its suppose to. Yours isnt as bad as mine. Mine wouldnt start after 100 kicks LOL. I lowered my idle down and now by second kick its fired. Not saying that it couldnt be your rings but its something else to try. Also how does it idle after started ?? someone mentioned that idle is terrible when rings are gone.

I think I got it pretty good,, running fine right now. Its in garage in back of my pickup and dont have any help to unload it LOL So I havent done a blast down the street yet. But as soon as I do I will know more. Also wondering how the cold start is gonna be now that carb is set ALOT better. You guys helped me alot any more help or tips would be appreciated THANKS

Also with my idle screws all the way out should there by any gap at all between slide bottoms and carbs. I couldnt get my idle down till I backed off the cables and that let the slides drop down some but they would probably go more.

You know what that had crossed my mind but I thought who would be that stupid LOL Should i worry about them sealing to prevent an air leak ???

I know I need a manual but dont have one yet. Downloaded the one on here and it helped a bunch along with alot of help from you all. Ok I have fac carbs with tors caps.I have 2 large screws on the caps (which I believe are the idle screws) To small brass ones that are almost flush (left side of each carb) But i also have two large ones that are brass in color with nuts to lock. No matter how I adjust these I get no change. Originally I thought they were idle screws. But you guys tell me no, I have got my idle down to a respectable point with a combo of adjusting the screws up top and backing off the cables and synching the carbs better. BUT what are the side screws for THANKS HELP Also remember I just bought this from a guy that done a great bit of screw turning on carb trying to get it to run.

AHHA my slides do look like they are high. Gonna give it a shot. Thanks for all the replys And keep them coming THANKS

Dunno for sure LOL I was assuming the ones on top you talk about were to synch the carbs only. And the ones that protrude out the side were idle screws and the small countersunk ones were the air screws. ????? Just got off work and went out to see how it fired up. Kcked till i bruised finnally got mad (I know its not good BUT) gave a small squirt of starting fluid. Fired right up and ran fine. Then it fires easily after that. The TORS is definately shot I plugged it in just to see if it worked and ran like trash dont need it anyway... My question is anyone have a reason or pointers on why its so hard to start the first time. Any help to send me in the right direction. THANKS

Ok took a minute but she fired up and sounded excellent compared to what it did. Idled fine maybe a tad high. Seemed a lil lean to me (not sure why lol) of course I didnt have the breather or air box on. But now my next ? Turned the idle screws all the way in and out but no diff. Doesnt seem like they even touch the slides. Never seen the slides move at all while going in and out. Not real sure of all the mods it has but it does have the tors caps so I am thinking factory idle screws. It idles fine BUT HOW !!! I am so close HELP

I should still have plenty of slack for that. Now both carbs have the same. What I had before was crazy-- were the 2 cables meet the one the lt side cable had so much slack that the protective cover was hanging down and you could see bare cable. LOL That will happen when you have slide in backwards and it has no groove on the side it needs to be ... I guess !!!! Thanks for alll replies and keep them coming THANKS

I just spun the slide around to face the correct way. ????? then kinda eyeballed it from back side and it was open slightly more then the right carb.Do the idle screws adjust this ???? But things look alot better cause all the slack is out of the cable now. Got left torn apart and cleaning hope to fire after dinner .... oh yeah and some tunning. :biggrin:

anybody ?? Going out now to finish cleaning left carb and I guess try to just spin the slide around. Then off with the right for some cleaning. Any help wou;d be appreciated

Also noticed that the slide has a vertical groove from top to bottom and the inside of carb has a flat protrusion inside of it that looks to me should run in the groove of the slide. But they are on opposite sides right now ?????????

Was on here about a month back asking a few ?'s about the shee was gonna buy. Well went ahead and made the deal today. Pretty new to banshees have done some 2 stroke work but not alot. Have done a chunk of searching and still kinda confused. If you unplugg the tors it revs to the moon, while plugged in it wont idle or run right. So I first noticed alot of slack in the throttle cable going to left carb (where to 2 cables meet to one). dropped that carb down making sure not to disturb the position of carb slide so I would know if it was off. Well there was a fair amount of grime and also the slides half moon cut away was faceing the reeds and not the filter(like I think it is suppose to from searching lol ) The choke tube was off also which helped but still wasnt right.The guy I bought it from had it at a shop getting some clutch work done and it sat there for 7 months and hasnt ran right since. He thinks it gummed up from setting and they took the carbs apart and got the slides wrong. Dont wanna even try going back to that shop lol. My ? is if the slide cut away is suppose to face the filter can I just turn it around or is it on wrong carb and I have to switch the slides --- and if so caps and all or just slides. Any help appreciated to bring this Banshee back from the grave LOL stock carbs