razorbackbanshee

Yea I was afraid of that! Do you have to bore the stock sleeve out or will it press out? Whats a ball park figure for someone to resleeve it?

Thanks for the reply. Yes, I was just planning on getting it honed. Whats your opinion on boring it out to a 70mm and putting in a '85 piston in? Would that match up, or is there a difference because of the power valve?

Hey guys I've always been a banshee guy (I've got two) but I picked up a near mint 1992 LT250R the other day, and I'm hoping some of you have some background with them. I bought it cheap because compression was low so I'm trying to get it rebuilt. I took it to the local dealership to get bored out, but when they miked it they said that it was 69mm. Stock bore on a '92 is 67 so they said they didn't think they could get a piston that big. So I think it is .080 oversize and unfortunetly that is the last size that I can find. Does any one know what my options are? Would a RM250 Piston work? Or maybe a 70mm piston from a 85-86 LT250r? My last resort would be to resleeve it, which I would do because it has a lot of nice port work, and is also completely polished. But, the cylinder bore looks great with no marks, the reason it failed was the rings froze in the piston grooves

I want the bumper. Sent you a PM

Sent PM on bumper

Awesome thanks! Free bump! Good luck

Where did you get the blue and green gas and carb hoses?

I think a +6 is a little too big. Thanks though

Looking for a stock style +4 swinger. Would be interested in the chain for it also

Just sent money for +4 swingarm and chain. Thanks!

I would like to meet the person who pays 8,000 for a scooter, and kick him in the nuts.

How much for the A-arms and the front elka's?

I just got some T-6's and I need some hangers for the silencers. Will stock ones work? I'll take whatever will work.

Thanks drag, but I just got some yesterday.

Looking for some stock headlights in good shape. I have paypal. Tell me what you have and how much.

Dibs on the carbs. I sent you an email.

Ok so I switched the bowls and it started right up. Someone said that 1-1 is supposed to be on the LH side but it goes on the RH side. On the front of the LH (choke) bowl there is a brass ball that sticks about halfway out. I think this is the only way to tell which one is which when they are mounted. Thanks for the help guys.

Ok I took the bowls off and the bowl marked 1-1 is on the choke side and the 1-2 is on the kickstarter side. I think this is correct right? I changed the pilot from 27.5 to 25 and it started the first kick. I have the air screw at 1.5 out. It doesn't seem as though the choke is doing anything, as after it is idling full choke doesn't kill it. My choke doesn't catch at 1/2 or full out, which means I have to hold it open. Does the O-ring make the choke stay in position? I took it out and it looks good.

I just finished cleaning the choke, and the O-ring is in great shape. Also have thoroughly cleaned the pilots, and mains. I just got it started by covering the back of the carbs with a rag. Does this mean I might have the bowls on the wrong carb? I also will turn my air screws in to richen it. I currently have a 27.5 pilot. Am I too rich, too lean? I'm glad I got it started by covering the back of the carbs, making progress. Keep the suggestions coming!

Its in the upper 20's and the 30's. I also have been thinking that it might have something to do with my choke. It will not stay all the way out on full choke, and I have to hold it out. I'm going to take my pods off and cover the back of the carbs up and see if this will get it started. If so, I guess I have a problem with my choke circuit. I'll also screw in my pilot screws to richen it up some. Are there any other ways to check for a bad choke? I'll report back in a couple hours

Hey guys, I've been having trouble with the shee this winter. I have a recent rebuild with great compression but I can't get it to start when it is cold. I thought it might have been the Castor 927 seperating in cold weather but I cleaned the tank out and put in Golden Spectro and it still won't start cold. I can get it to start if I pour a little gas into the cylinder, and after its warm it will run great and start right up. So, I know I don't have an electrical issue, because I have a strong spark. I have a 27.5 pilot and have cleaned out the carbs about 4 times this winter, so I'm trying to narrow down whats wrong. Do you think I have too small of a pilot in? I just found a set of 30's and I also have a set of 25's. I am going to start with the 30's first and see if that will fix it. Anyone have this kind of problem before? ' Thanks, Travis

I've tried a few things. After the second time I turned the gas off and that didn't do it, and this past time I turned off the gas while it was idling and then let it burn the gas in the carbs. That didn't work either as it won't start again today. I have 27.5 pilots and when I take them off I can kinda see light coming through the holes, which makes me think that the clog is oil based.

Each time I go to ride the shee I have to take apart the carbs and unclog the pilots, and then it starts right up. It will also start no problem for the rest of the day. But if it sits for a day or more then I have to unclog them. I took off the tank and drained it and refilled it with fresh gas, and it still does it. My question is could the cold weather be causing my oil (castor 927) to thicken and clog? The shee sits outside, and its gotten really cold (5-10 degrees). Anyone have a similar problem?

I have more pics I can send through email

another pic