SEBanshee

A while back my buddy and I were out riding and playing around pulling wheelies, when my throttle seemed to stick for a couple of seconds at a time and shortly afterwards, the clutch stops working and I lose all tension on the clutch lever...as if the cable had snapped but it didn't. I took it home and took it apart. The photo below shows what I found. I have since put it back together with a new pressure plate and new push rod, but have yet to take it out and test it. Does anyone know what may have caused this? http://imageshack.us/a/img35/504/bansheepressureplate.jpg ^^That was the only thing that I found out of the ordinary.

Ok, well if you guys think I'm ok then great. I rode it for about 5 minutes on the street in front of my house, and checked it when I was done. Once again there was no oil in the checkered area.

I Was actually thinking that it was all being sucked in the tranny. I went out and checked it a few minutes ago, and its back to its normal level. It fills the checkered area. I'm worried about it not circulating. I filled it up as per my service manual's specifications (which I cant remember off the top of my head how much it is). The bike smokes a lot, but it always has, as the jetting is rich at the moment. It doesn't smell weird either. It just smells like a typical 2 stroke.

I put my engine all back together after getting the crank welded, and am now paranoid. It starts and runs like it used to, but I'm nervous that I didn't do a good job at putting Yamabond on the cases. I used Yamabond 5. I've noticed that my engine oil keeps getting lower. I check it on the dipstick, and it it seems to keep getting lower. Now, Everytime I have checked it, it has been after it was running for a minute or two, so I guess it could just be because it was thinnned out from just running. But I'm scared its leaking into the crankshaft compartment. Just tonight when it was cold, the oil filled the checkered area on the dipstick. When I go done, the oil wasn't touching the dipstick at all. So my question is, if it lost that much oil to the crankshaft compartment in the two or three minutes that it was running, would it still run the same, or would i notice something (i.e. not running the same) I expect I would notice something, but was not sure. Oil does not seem to be leaking anywhere from the outside of the cases. So, if someone can calm my nerves, I would be a very happy person.

The stock stator on my Banshee got damaged and is now trashed. I need a new aftermarket one. I dont want stock. I want something prefferabley around 200 watts, but will take other suggestions. I looked at Ricky Stator but have heard they get a lot of bad reviews, and I cant seem to find anyone else. So, any suggestions would be great. Thanks.

I was starting to think the same thing. I think whenever I tighten it down, the primary pushes the bearing into the welds, and makes it very hard to spin. I had the crank welded by Port Magic Racing. He seemed to be a good person to go to, as a lot of people on everything2stroke suggested him to me. Plus, hes only like an hour and 30 minutes away. The bearing does not spin freely when the crank is out of the case. However, the old bearing that this happened to the first time seems to spin fine, and its off the crank.

Alright everyone, I have pics of it. It was said earlier that the primary gear and bearing are not supposed to contact each other when pushed in all the way, unless its assembled wrong. Well, you can see in the pics below that it does infact touch the bearing. If anyone can help as to what I'm doing wrong based on the pics, I would appreciate it very much.

Yep ridges are inside. I'll get pics tomarrow after I tear it back down again, so you can see how I have it assembled.

Are you sure? I push the primary in until it stops, and I think it comes to rest with the bearing. I could be wrong though. When you say "seal" are you talking about the crank seal with the "ridges" on one side?

I got the crank welded.

I dont even know exactly. They just dont want to spin afterwards. They have a lot of resistance.

I got the cases back together and mounted in the frame of my Banshee. Every time I go to tighten the primary drive gear nut onto the crankshaft, it messes up the crank bearing on that side, and the crank shaft will not turn over by hand. I even had to buy a new bearing and replace the old one because it would not spin right. And now its doing it again. I tighten it down, and now the crank will not spin by hand. I have to use a wrench on the flywheel nut to spin it, and its very resistant. I'm not tightening the nut down hard either. The torque listing for it in my Clymers manual is around 47 ft. lb. I wasn't even close to that on my torque wrench when it got like that. I just dont know whats going on. If anyone can help I would really appreciate it. Thanks.

Ok guys, this is what it all looks like after I put it back together. If anyone wants to see better/more detailed pictures then just let me know.

Ok. I'll get some pics tomarrow.

Nope, its there. I'll get some pics up soon.

It moves down like it should, but its like the gear isn't catching, and therefore it doesn't spin the engine. I checked it many, many times and the gear moves out like it should, but its just not turning the rest of it.

I almost have my engine all the way back together after splitting the cases, and have since put it back in the frame of the bike. I followed my Clymers manual all the way and did what it told me to do in putting it back together. I can spin the engine (in gear without the chain around the sprocket) with the flyweel, and everything seems to be working fine. I put the kickstarter shaft in the way it told me, and put the case cover for that side on, and put the kickstater on the shaft. I tried kicking it, but it will not budge the engine. I'm at a loss. I can turn the engine over fine if I grab the flywheel, but the kickstarter will not do it. If anyone has any ideas, I would be greatly appreciate it. I think I've had more bad luck than good and just want to get it back together and finished.

I was actually beginning to think about it like that. I actually ended up calling a buddy, and he basically said the same thing you did. So, that makes me feel a lot better. Thanks for the help you guys. I really appreciate it.

Yes, thats what it felt like, but I fixed that with adjusting that little screw. And yes I installed the ball and rod.

I adjusted that little screw until I could pull the clutch lever and watch the pressure plate move in and out as I pulled it. But, thats all its doing. with the clutch pulled in I can grab the flywheel and turn it, and watch the sprocket spin. So, I'm kinda at a loss again. Any ideas?

The lever is about a millimeter or so away from being lined up from the arrow. I'll adjust it tomarrow, and hopefully it will all work out. And Yes, I oiled all the disks before I installed them, and no, I didn't forget the ball or the rod, haha. Everything is there. Thanks for the help guys. I really appreciate it.

I got my engine all put back together (split cases), and the clutch installed. I connected the clutch cable to the clutch release lever, and tightened it up at the clutch lever. When I pull the clutch in, there is absolutely no resistance. The engine is currently in gear, and I tried spinning the sprocket with my hand with the clutch pulled in, and I couldn't turn it. Before I would have been able too. I'm thinking its an adjustment, but I dont know what. If anyone has information at all, or any ideas I would be very happy. Thanks.

I got my crank in the crankcase and got it all bolted togther. I was bolting down the primary and waterpump gers, when I stopped and notice the crankshaft would not budge. After trying to get it to spin, I took the cases apart again. The problem seems to be with the crank bearing on that side. It would not spin at all. I put some two stroke oil in it, and got it to spin, but not freely. Its almost like its rubbing against the crank. The other sie spins flawlessly. I'm thinking that when I tried to bolt the gears down, they pushed against the bearing to hard and now its rubbing on the crank. I dont know though. What do you guys think? Has this ever happenend to anyone? I need help desperately.

So now that I've decided to mod my Banshee for the dunes, and know what I want to do to it, where do I start? I want to get 33mm carbs, dune port, pipes (I've heard CPI pipes work great with a dune port), and 20 or 21cc head domes. Aside from welding the crank, what would be the very first thing I should get? Keep in mind I will be riding it as I add stuff to it, and I cant get it all at once. I'm thinking maybe send the cylinders off frist to get ported, so while those are gone, I can tear into the bottom end and weld the crank, but I dont know. Also, I'm worried that after I do all of this, I will have reliability issues. I'm not saying that the Banshee is an unreliable quad, but I know when you start adding mods to any engine that increases performance, reliability could be an issue, and I just wanted to check with some of you guys first. Any replies would be appreciated.

Alright thanks you two. I'll just wait and get pods then.