swrbansheeboy
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Posts posted by swrbansheeboy
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i'm assuming your refering to the idler gear thats on the end of the tranny shaft?
it can have a little bit of play in it but if it's wobbeling very bad you should replace the bushing, otherwise it can start breaking edge off the end of the tranny shaft that the snap ring rides against and once that edge gets broke off the snap ring will just keep popping off. then you will have to break the cases and replace the tranny shaft....twister sells a steel bushing for like $10.
it's kind of a pain finding something the right size to press the old one out, i took an old wrist pin and chucked it up in my drill press, spun it as fast as i could get it and ground it down to the right size. then pressed the old bushing out and the new bushing in.
it's righty tight now, well worth the 10 bones...
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i just sent one of the main sellers of this item this...
i am curious about this item and the power there capable of delivering, if you would be willing to send me a set to do a review i would be willing to install them and run them on our dyno. after the dyno run i will send you back your product with dyno sheets showing what gains your product provide for future use in your advertising.i have had several people inquire about your product and would like to demo it on our dyno so i can provide accurate information to our customers, at the same time i feel i can provide you with some factual numbers to back up your product.
if intrested e-mail me at.......
maybe they'll bite. it sure would be fun to mess with a set of these for an hr on the dyno just to see how much power they are capable of losing...
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anyone intrested in a niks pro x monoblock top end? posting for a friend.
fully polished monoblock with matching head/ cr250 polished billet intakes/ wsm silicone impregnated pistons/ 69mm bore/ all hardware and o-rings/ set up for 5 mill crank but can be decked to run 4 mill...
was running when tore down.
$500
if theres any intrest i can post pics...
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basicly your going to be looking for a slight "bevel" around your ports or that the edges of your ports have been ground/chamfered so there are no sharp edges that could hang up one of your rings...
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nope, i'v known my fair share of amsiol salesmen, though, and i got turned off by a product that doesn't sell itself. just the way i am, otherwise, i'm sure i would've tried it. i have run several different oils over the years, though. like i said, just my opinion, and you can do what you want.
just threw a little red flag, going from a high deposit oil, to a high detergent oil. the deposits don't get controlled like a 4 stroke when they come off.
i was just curious if you'd ever ran it since running saber at 80:1 the bikes actualy run rich, running 40:1 would be about the equivelant or running 10:1 with a conventional oil. i know guys who have tried it and you can barely get the bike started, but i appreciate the advice none the less...
and trust me, i dont dig the idea of drinking the amsoil koolaid. just factoring in the cash involved and the fact that we've swapped 4 of our groups bikes over with no problems. to me the bottom line is that i can run a full season on 2 quarts of saber compared to 2 gallons of r-50....
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i know they have 110 sunoco from the pump at the cfn by my parents house, i guess you could always take a pic of you getting it from the pump and take it with you in case anyone questions it.....
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i have a fluke knockoff from radio shack and it does so much shit i dont even use it's pathetic, freakin thing even plugs into my comp so i can look at graphs of shit i've tested. it was like $100...
for what it's worth if your not testing shit on the space shuttle then this will probably work out just fine for you....
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=92020
you can always step up to the mack daddy...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=37772
99.9% of the time i use my meter for voltage/ resistance and continuity, i have used the $5 meter against my $100 meter and there so damn close it dont matter for the stuff i use it for..
i actualy bought 5 cheap meters and handed them out to all my riding buddies so i always have a meter regardless of who i'm riding with....
my only real bitch with the cheap meter is when doing continuity it doesnt beep like my big meter...
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woah, you can do what you want, but i would start @ 40:1 for about 4 hrs, or 2 tanks, then inspect for deposits, to make sure you're running 80:1 in a clean engine. when i started the torco, i kept it rich for a while. it even removed all the paint from inside the intake. just to make sure none of the deposits stick somewhere else when they come off. wouldn't want to twist a rod, or stick a ring. just my .02
not trying to be a dick (i know i'll still sound like one) but have you ever ran saber before heathen?
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harbor freight has them, just have to figure out if there metric or sae...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=93540
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=93541
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Link thief... :biggrin: :biggrin:
who, me?
i just get the info people need, that your vid?
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if you think it's piston slap you can pull the intakes and exhaust then look at the piston skirts to make sure they dont have an excessive amount of scoring...
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right now i'm running klotz r-50 at 32:1 but am preparing to make the switch to the dark side, i'm going to start running amsoil saber at 80:1.
for the case i run redline shockproof.
i'm still not sold on one perfect mix oil but i am sold on redline shockproof for the case.
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oh, and congrats on makng 1000 posts cajun...
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i've actualy found that the hardest part is finding a good set of v blocks, like the cajun said you can actualy get a decent dial indicator and a mag base from harbor freight for like $25 when there on sale...
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sometimes when you weld the pushrod assembly up it will mar the pushrod surface of the armature creating a burr that wont allow you to reamove the arm without galling up the bore where tha arm rides.
i have removed them before with minimal scarring of the bore but the correct way to do it without chewing anything up is to split the cases and grind off the burr before removal of the arm.
that being said the main surfaces that the arm ride on are the small pin on the bottom that seats into the lower case half and the bearing at the top of the upper case so if it's not too bad you can try and work it out...
like most things on here it's kind of hard to form an opinion without having it in front of me...
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so you have no engine work and cpi inframes with filters?
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when i run upon this question i always site the instance of my buddie who for 2 years ran 10/40 motor oil as his mix in his 250r with no problems....
basicly what i'm saying is that there are many options out there and most all of them work, just pick something reputable and go with it. for every person here thats running "brand x" oil with no problems theres an equal number who are running "brand y" with no problems also.
everyone wants to see people use the brands there using to justify why there using that brand, i say just grab one and go...
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i run r-50 at 32:1 right now with absolutly no problems but am preparing to go to the dark side and start running amsoil sabre at 80:1...
done alot of research on it and watched 5 bikes switch last weekend without blowing up, if anything they seemed to be running rich at 80:1 so i'm going to take the plunge...
i hate the idea of jumping on the amsoil train but dollar wise it's cheaper...
and i've only seen rust on a crank from washing your bike and getting water in the exhaust
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Blaster rear brakes are mechanical and Banshee's are hydraulic, most people with Blasters convert to a Banshee rear caliper on them..I guess it'd work if you could rig it up..I would just go w/o one rather than do that..
the old school blaster rears are mechanical but the new style are hydraulic, i think from 03 up....
dont know if there a direct bolt on though...
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Bobby Boucher:
Mama says that alligators are ornery because they got all them teeth and no toothbrush.
Mama says that happiness comes from little rays of sunshine that shine down when your feeling blue.
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take a hooked pick and work the old one out, then grease up the new seal, slide it on the shaft till it starts to seat, then take a 1/2" drive socket and slide it over the shaft backward and gently tap the seal into place. the splines shouldnt be a problem as they are the same size as the shaft.
it'll make sense when you do it....
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right side smoke more often than not points to one thing...
blown crank seal, do a leak down test to confirm the engines holding pressure before you start chasing your tail trying to fix a bunch of stuff thats working correctly...
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well it's not exactly a few extra bucks.
you can get a stock stroke crank pistons and seals and gaskets for like 500ish probably less. won't need new carbs or anything else to keep it running well
you go 4 mil you are looking at around 730 for the crank pistons cool head domes, then another 300 for a port to match the stroke, then your stock carbs will maybe sufice, but you'll probably want bigger... so thats like 1300 bones right there. make sure you can afford it before you jump into the water.
agreed, i'd say stroke it but theres alot more to it then dropping another 2 bills on a crank...
do the math and decide if your wallet can handle the hit, thats why i still run stock stroke 350's...lol
if i ever do get the money to waste i'm going all twister though....
clutch push rod stuck in shaft
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
imo if you cannot use a magnet to pull the ball and rod out from the clutch side it might be time to split the case.
the hole in the clutch shaft goes all the way through so if you were able to remove the actuator arm then you should be able to look through the hole and see if the end of the rod is mangled so bad you cant pull it back through the clutch side.
i dont think you will be able to drill it since it's more than likely the ball got welded to the end of the rod, the ball and rod are made of some pretty hard stuff and your more likley to mess up the inside of the shaft trying to drill it....