Knight_Rider

hey guys just wanting to know what end gap you run. I have a new set of wiesco pro lites 64.75mm ive sat the ring in the bore and i measure 9 thou gap does this sound about right?. also with the wiesco pistons when you sit them in the bore does it matter if the boost ports dont quite match up. The pistons i pulled out of it were factory yamaha ones .50 they look like the have slightly bigger boost ports they look wider where as the wiesco ones look taller. any help would be appreciated

thanks for the help guys where bouts in oz u from ozbanshee i was beginning to think i was the only one on this site from this side of the world lol

what oil are you guys running? ive been running a Elf oil full synthetic when i had the motor down the pistons were still like brand new after 80 hours i ran it at 35:1

thanks for the help guys what pre mix do you run in yours?> i think i was running 35-1 last time with a Elf oil full synthetic

whats the best way to run a banshee in with a fresh engine rebuild? any help would be appreciated

hey guys just just putting my engine back together at the moment ive got a hot rod crank for it. Ive noticed that the factory crank has pins which locate in the casings on the bearings. The hot rod crank has one pin on the clutch side but no other ones. Have they done away with this design now? ive noticed the hot rod crank has o rings aswell. any1 know what im talking about?

as far as i know its the standard needle that came with the carbs they are KEIHN 35mm flatside carbs

hey sorry i forgot to mention it has been ported just a mild port nothing to big. It seems to be running good i did a plug chop and they came out a dark tan colour prob slightly rich more than lean, just wanted other peoples opinions cause i thought 35mm carbs would be to big, the bike came with them when i brought it

hey guys ive got a 99 shee with fmf gold series pipes standard compression pro design intake boysen reeds no lid on airbox 35mm keihn carbs with 155 main jets. i ride at sea level bike goes awsome but lacks down low a bit anyone got any ideas r the carbs to big. its got wiesco 64.75mm pro lights in it cheers

hey sorry for the late reply just got back from holiday i'll try post sum pics of the setup for ya. The exhaust pipe was a 2into 1. with the rhb5 the turbine wheel is very small and will create to much backpressure in the exhaust housing. what housing have u got on yours? 12r 15r or 20r?. with the oil system we made up a catch tank that ran a pump which just recycled itself. I'll get the photos up cause they paint a million words

hey sorry i've just got back from holiday i'll try get that file uploaded tnite for ya cheers

awsome cheers man i'll give you the file

i was the same forever having problems with the 2 nuts coming undone i locktighted mine and did them up really tight they still came loose. whats the difference with the LSR one?

just tryin to figureo out how to upload this vid

another pic

without the carbon fibre wings it spends more time lookin at the sky lol :yelrotflmao:

Hey guys just thought i would post some pics of our superquad we run its not a banshee but thought it might interest ya its a 2001 Raptor 660 frame with a 02 GSXR1000 turbocharged engine It competes in hillclimb events and gravel sprints, only weighs 260kg puts out 228rwhp on 6psi of boost the motor has been built to take 18 pound but 6 pound is more than enough lol all i can say is that its insane the power is instant no lag wotsoever. Ive got a vid of it ill try post. Jarrad

Hey sorry for the late reply. In my opinion the IHI RHB5 Turbine wheel will be far to small will be to restrictive. The GT30 we ran had the .64 housing on it, we tried the .86 but found the .64 more responsive. The reason we used the gt series turbo is because the pump dosent have to flow as much oil for the bb turbo. We played around with alot of combinations turbo's i mean and found the gt30 to be the best of them all. We tried a gt2871r but found the turbine wheel was to restrictive was getting to higher backpressure in the housing. 2 strokes require alot of air they are greedy if you ask me the 3071r comp wheel with the 53mm inducer works perfect. As for the pipes in the end we ran with FMF gold series which worked really well. We made up a exahust header for it and ran it without the expansion chambers, which worked well if you dont want to take it past 4500rpm lol it made 11hp more than a stock motor but after 4500rpm the curve went from goin straight up to straight down due to backpressure getting to high in the housing, we tried going bigger on the exhaust housing but nothing changed it didnt matter what we did we couldnt get it to work.

Yea timeless amounts of time go into testing its incredible how much time you can spend on the dyno. 1 other thing we found interesting is we tested 10 different brands of 2 stroke oils on the dyno mixed up 5 litre containers all fully syntheic oils and tested them to see what one made the most power because alot of oil companys state there oil will make more power over other brands. Out of the 10 oils tested all of them made the same hp/torque bar 1 which was 0.5hp down on the rest. The turbo we ran on out banshee was a Garrett GT3071r we used the bb turbo as they dont require as much oil flow as the journal bearing.

When turboing a 2 stroke its best to leave the ports standard we have found if you open the ports up you slow the velocity of the air going into the motor the one we turboed was running 7 pounds of boost. we tried running the turbo before the expansion chambers and made more power down low than a stock banshee but as soon as we got over 4500rpm it went backwards due to the pulses in the exhaust. 1 other thing thats interesting is that the AR ratio of the turbine housing is critical as this is where all the backpressure comes from. If you get it wrong the power curve drops of quickly. After playing around and spending hours and hours we came to the conclusion that turboeing a 2 stroke without expansion chambers is a waste of time, well good if you dont want to run over 4500rpm lol there is about a 11hp gain up to 4500 rpm over a stock one. With the turbo at the back of the expansion chambers and with the turbo matched to the engine properly you can safely produce 140hp on low boost levels if there is anything else you wana know just leave me a message i could type for hours lol

awsome cheers

Hey guys just wanting some opinions on my setup, its a 99 banshee has wiesco 713 series pistons 64.75mm ported barrels standard head and compression, standard timing pro design inlet manifolds FMF gold series pipes wiesco crank. When i brought the bike it had 35mm Keihn flatside carbs on it. I pulled the main jet out and it had 155 stamped on it. The bike never misses a beat goes awsome, ive noticed recently that the plugs look like they are running quite rich kind of a dark tan colour. I know its impossible to work out what jet is best by me telling you guys but does anyone else out there have similar mods to me? Im goin to do race to the sky in Easter which is a big hillclimb over here. It starts at 1500ft and goes up to 5000ft so have to get a jet sorted for that. most of my riding is done at sea level and our temperateures over here on average would be between 18-22 degrees very dry heat not humid. any help would be appreciated. Ps if anyone wants info on turboing a banshee let me know as we did one over here a while ago and got awsome results with it on the dyno. Took a while to get there but we got it sorted Jarrad

Hey guys im pretty new to this site im currently rebuilding my 99 banshee motor,i need help adjusting the shifter mechanisim which connects to the shift cluster for changing gear there is a procedure for doing it it states that the clearance must be equal. has anyone done this? any help would be appreciated Jarrad