volcrano
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Posts posted by volcrano
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free bump. these pipes are the best for a trail/dune motor in my eyes. ive ran tons of pipes and these run as hard as they look. that center silencer is the shit btw. also the sound is amazing. if i were you i would cut and weld my frame back to the way it originally was and run them. mine fit great, and just to verify again, the dent in the pass pipe is supposed to be there for water pump hose clearance.
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Just do a leakdown test....that will insure you don't have a leaking seal
x2. just go rip on it too. gearbox oil shouldnt hurt unless your running like a detergent oil. its just gonna foul plugs. we dont even know thats what it is. now if it were lean i wouldnt run it, but you not. how do you tell if your rich or lean?? your plugs tell you right off the bat. now to really fine tune it right you need to do a plug chop but were far from that. if its leaking coolant, you'll know, it will come out of overflow and you'll smell it. go ride it!
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did you check float levels when you redid the carbs?? float bowls on correct carbs??? the one with the brass bb goes on choke carb. do you have your choke tube that connects the carbs in place??? try switching plug wires to see if its ignition related??
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did you have the motor at operating temp also when holding wfo for compression reading??? if a crank seal is bad it will be the clutch side if its rich. that means its sucling transmission oil into combustion chamber. if it were running lean constantly it could be a flywheel crank seal, cuz it would suck air on that side. have you noticed trans level dropping?? i would still also run that fucker. i usually after a rebuild will fire it up, let her idle for a few to get hot, blip her for a few mins then shut off to cool. do that again, then after 2nd cool down start putting engine load on it,going from easy load to hard load the more heat cycles. try that, esp if you havent put load on it yet.
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im pretty sure round jet shit is copy. look at your pwk on the carb body upbove the bowl. should have serial numbers. if not its a copy. thats why it runs out of fuel too, read that link i have on the previous post. im going to send these bitches back. i do like these tho..
http://www.treatland.tv/OKO-30mm-carburetor-p/oko-30mm-black.htm
and if you go to where it says main jets they are hex.. go figure
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They are d slide pwk copies thats what i dont understand. chrome d slides even. I think i got copy pwk okos, if you understand that.
this is the exact item i bought. what is the intake vent tube all about. i dont think these are correct.
http://www.miniriders.com/tech-talk/26815-keihin-pwk-copy-carb-mods.html
this is it. the emulsion tube on the left is supposed to be oko. i have the round jet one on the right. hex will not fit with bowl on.
also, if you look down, my float needle inlet has that shitty brass piece like this supposed pwk copy. it looks nothing like the oko. wtf gives...
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I got a set of brand new in the box 30m oko carbs. The odd thing is that they take round main jets instead of hex. Can i run my hex in them or do i have to change emulsion tube and jet needle to the hex style??? They have the nut for quick change on the bowl. Another odd thing is on the intake of the carb body in front of the slide body there is a vertical vent.. I havent heard of anybody running into this but they are okos brand new.. Please help, id like to get these on soon. Thanks guys.
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Ill trade u for a set of fmf pipes
really dude..
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yes the idle screws are most of your prob. as said before,file the carb body at the threads so your idle screw will sit in the bore further raising the slide more to give idle. if your orings/cap o rings were bad you would have a lean condition and wouldnt be fouling plugs. you also shouldnt be running the bilke at idle for extended periods of time. if you switch the plug wire to the opposite side will the right side foul?? is your pick up and both "poles" on the outside of flywheel clean and no corrosion?? why are you running 9 heat range plugs??? 40:1 fuel mix is a richer air/fuel mix, tho it doesnt explain why one side is fouling and not the other, esp the pto side. try ngk b8es plugs too. my shee does NOT like resistor plugs and i have never had a cdi or electrical issue due to running a non-resistor plug. you're probably fouling because its idling too low to stay running.
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the pictures are somewhat hard to see. it looks like the first plug pic is slightly lean, esp compared to the one under it. like i said the pics are hard to see so they might be okay. can you take a pic with both of them next to each other in same pic. have you checked for air leaks??
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yeah go pros are cool, if you like a goddamn vhs recorder hanging off your helmet. god they look queer. contour 1080 hd gps ftw.
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why is the right connecting rod notorious for vertical play?????? ive never heard of problems with them.
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damn winter. i always start mine up every month or so. gotta drink a few beers in a cloud of klotz in the garage with some country crankin takin in the smells and sight of my creation till next year lol.
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how would i port it and how big do i port it if i wanted it to be retarded when the power band comes on
Do you really want it retarded when your powerband kicks?? Then its harder to ride!!! You dont want to say i want the stupidest port ever,because you'll get something you hate. You port to your riding style and terrain. A retarded powerband will be a drag port which is mid top stupidness. If you ride in the woods, good luck. It will have NO power to lug you anywhere and you will clutch your dick off to get useable power. Port to what suits you or you will regret it, be pissed, and have to buy new cyls and have them ported the right way. Pc pipes do take porting tho and respond well. My 4 mil dune port had them and it pulled like crazy.
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hey man,u might be a lil high on the price.i got a set off ebay for 299 shipped and they looked like new without a scratch and type 296 silencers. not jacking ur shit or putting u down,just saying.good luck with the sale .pcs rip.free bump.
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Well I found the o-ring kit for like $22 bucks and says they're viton seals and was from Trinity or an authorized Trinity vendor anyway. Since the head looks like it can come off easily besides for taking off the tank which I'm going to flush out anyway I'm hoping I can get the head off the studs without taking much apart besides pulling the tank?
Just was looking it over last night and I see there is a metal "spacer" (& obv 2 gaskets) between the jugs and crankcase....uhh is that normal or a ghetto fix to make a 4mill crank work? or for some other kind of reason?
its not really "ghetto" but it doesnt give u the performance that u think it would by adding the crank.it keeps the port timing the same addding the spacer plate,but its added so the pistons dont hit the head. the correct way to do it is have the cyls. ported for the stroke and the builder will match port timings for more hp. then u get cut domes for the head,they cut the inside for piston clearance. pretty much all u have is a stock feeling engine with maybe a pube more bottom from the 4mil. get it ported and cut domes and be done. oh,yeah, i would ditch the trinity. too many o rings and spots to leak. get a chariot head. its a great design and ive never had an issue with the 2 i have.love em..
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so just buy 27.5 pilots and 280 and 290 mains
yup
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hey i need to know for sure before i rejet my bike, that is bone stock besides pro design air filter and pro circuit pipes, will be jetted for 35-65 degree weather, my jets i believe i should use is 280 mains and 27.5 pilot and elevation is at 400ft, what do you think?
lol,if u need confirmation u should have posted this in the first place lol.running open air box for summer will be 280 and k&n filter. you should even be good to the 65 degree but if ur getting colder run 290-300 or put ur lid on with 280s. do a plug chop and find out for sure.actually,since ur 400 ft, start with 290 then as it gets colder look into 300, getting into 30s run 310.a 290 and airbox lid might be fine.ur gonna have to do some detective work on the plugs period to see what ur bike wants.this will get u started and possibly in there.
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damn thats a HELLA deal somebody got!!!!!!!! i was almost hoping to see "still for sell".
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Ok guys, took the fly wheel off to inspect and realized my friend installed fly wheel with no wood ruff key. Could this create a no spark situation? I don't see how it could, the timing would be off, but is that it?
i believe it could,but only really if the crank was spinning and the flywheel wasnt,but with the nut tight it shouldnt spin that much at all. ive heard of people with go kart racing engines not using woodruff key,but lapping the flywheel to crank. definately put it back in. do u still have the tors brain connected over the left pipe????
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is ur tors brain box still connected?if so unplug it and check for spark again
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white dot?????pwks,either by eye or get a sync tool.
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is it possible u got metal shavings from filing ur carb body in there?if so that will toast a top end.
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when u talk hillclimb,do u mean in the dunes or in the woods.in the woods i would say hell to the no on shearers.from what i gather they lack bottom,but they are a inframe drag pipe,so thats not what they are built for.dunes,give em a try,but if ur woods,the t5s will be the choice.actually,pcs would be the woods choice.i still cheese over my dmcs tho
FS: Toomey 2:1 high flow filter system
in For Sale - Parts & Accessories
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I tried sending you a amessage pastrykiller but this site is so screwed up i cant see what im typing and it wont send pm. ill buy it now if youll take $30 shipped to 44685. let me know.