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volcrano

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Posts posted by volcrano

  1. that's exactly what im saying

    uh dude-i dont think u got the point here.hes poking fun and its hilarious.what props are u giving urself saying that ur fine tuned machine would beat a cub that ran like a plug was out of it.ID SURE AS HELL HOPE SO!!!!!!!the only way u can state it right is your port and all the goods can beat a cub setup too and tuned as well as ur stock cylinder.can u make that claim???or claim that u can be close???i got a ported 4mil with the same bolt ons and compression as my buddies unported 421 and i could pull him by 1 bike when i had my cpis and 34mms.if he was ported my ass would have been toast-that bitch just grunts upon throttle.put up some numbers on dyno or something.prove here that u have a good product,the talking isnt going well,and i wont bash u because i have no reason to.im sure u do do good work.id like to see what u guys have to offer before spending money without proof of quality since these claims of beating shitty running cubs.. :shrugani:

  2. raise the needles in the carb slides to the center position and try hold n the throttle a tiny bit open and it should run !! if flooded already, more than likly, hold wide open to start to get max air into the engine.it may take some kickn over before it starts

    wtf?re-jetting it isnt going to do anything but waste alot of time!!!!!y does he have to move the clip to the center and hold the throttle open?is the needle not gonna move on the clip its at when the throttle is opened??? banghead

  3. CLEAN YOUR NEEDLE AND SEATS REALLY GOOD!!!!!!!! by what you just described its sounds like its not getting fuel

    X2!!!!!!!!!if you have fuel coming out of ue fuel lines your needle and seat are stuck for sure.check the routing of ur fuel lines like if its running up hill to clear a shitty boost bottle.make it as straight to the carbs from the tank as possible.well thats good news-it runs and u know its just a fuel issue.that oughta help u breathe a sigh!!!!!!

  4. I know this means it will be slightly more gas per volume then 32:1 but is it enough to make a change in jets that I am running?

    running less oil which u are with the 40:1 will richen your air/fuel ratio slightly,wont be enough to make u worry.it cant hurt in these temps as its colder but when you do run less oil,there is a little less lubrication.use a good oil for ur mix-i like klotz supertechniplate esp. if u are running less oil.u would be wise to put bigger jets in and if u havent done that for the temp. change for winter,just changing the oil ratio to gas is not going to be enough to keep piece of mind.its a coin flip of running lean.hopefully u richened mains bro-i see ur in MD.

  5. Yo guys, I am thinking about doing another order of hoodies since my others are pretty well sold out. I want to expand the colors.

     

    I want to keep the black with while/yellow logo unless someone can come up with something to replace the yellow. red always looks orange on them so thats a no go.

     

    I want to do another run of graphite with blue replacing the red. I think those would look good.

     

    I also want to do sport grey. I'm still up in the air about the colors on them. Our company hoodies have red/black on them and they look pretty good, but I will branch out if it's a good idea.

     

    I probably won't do red again as they weren't as popular as I thought they'd be.

     

    Navy blue?

    Yellow?

    Royal blue?

     

    Shoot me some ideas.

     

    ALSO, I am working on getting designs from Mull and Wildcard to put on these as well.

    yo tyler-i dunno if u ever had white with blue lettering-i wanted one of the hoodies but i need xxxl and they all went quick!!!!ok-how about doing banshee schemes to go along with the website.random color schemes from 87 shees till now.yami blue with white letters,white with red letters,maybe for the boys chicks or fellow female shee riders the purple with yellow lettering.shit i dont know what other old school schemes the shees had but u know where im going.im not missing another chance on these bitches!!!!!!!

  6. im telling u this for a fact u can watch me on youtube run a 13.2

    and that was the night we were tuning it

     

    it was an 16/39 with a 20 inch american racer

    eat it

    eat it lol.i must have to go to sylvan learning center for math.i was unaware 13.2 is the same as 12.6.interesting watson.

  7. get rid of your dune port and pro circuits... i did and i'll never go back!!!!!!!

    negative captain.ive had a setup for drag with cpis and 34mms and it sucked for me.i ride woods only and had a hp setup but totally 180 from what i wanted.the dune and pcs are an ass kicker in the woods.

  8. wow! this one got wierd..... i tried to find the ebay auction i was asking about but. its allready done.... when i posted this thread it was over the ebay auction for stock cylinder porting regular 350.00 auction special 200.00! it said ''dont waist your money on cheetah cub cylinders" and even said that this perticular port job an a 350 will out run a 421 cub....... this was all off ebay!!!!!!!

    i dident even see there website....... i dont give a shit about grammer or spelling!

     

     

    So.... the ebay listing's are frome someone else? :confused:

    obviously u dont care about spelling "frome".gurt b. frome.lol.either the listing changed or something but i saw nowhere on their ebay page claiming stock cyl. to beat a cub.they did claim mid 70's hp for $200.i havent seen their company internet website though.whatever-i dont care.

  9. banshee boyz did my port work and i ran stock stroke 64mm bore 34mm pjs and he told me how to set it up bike ran a 12.6 in the 1/4 without being fully jetted right.. he knows what he is talking about so dont judge him by the way he types ( thats just plain fucking stupid )

    get the fuck outta here.do u have a 16 tooth front and rear with 25 inch tires.highly doubt it.

  10. i have a bone stock banshee and tomorrow ill be ordering a set of pro circuit platinum pipes the only mod my bike has is a kn filter

    with airbox lid i want to order some jets so when i get the pipe it will be ready to slap on , what are some good starting points on jets, will my pilots be okay and will the needle be alright where its at, it runs great now it also has a boost bottle it was on my bike when i got it do i have to remove it or can i leave it on and one last question where should i order jets from is there a site sponsar i should order from

     

    Thanks

    good choice in pipes bro.id say to get u started in this ohio weather and temps-27.5 pilot,needle in the middle and 310 main.it might be a lil rich but might be real close.the richer the better.my buds bike has similar mods and hes at 310.cant hurt-its fucking 10 degrees.if u want a few get 290,300,310.use the 310 tho-run the bike,get it to temp and check plug after bout 10 mins of riding-20 if you are using new plugs.if u look a little wet,take just the snorkel off the air box lid to let more air in.do another run.if still wet,pull ur lid and test again,unless u want to leave ur airbox on for good,then rejet down one size at a time,going to the 300 and so on so forth.id think youll be pretty close with 310 tho.

  11. not sure if the bowls are on the right side. How can i tell do I need to pull them back off? Not sure what the choke tube is

    the bowl with the brass bb at the bottom goes on the carb with the choke pull lever.the choke tube is the little piece of fuel line/vacuum hose that connects the two carbs together so when u choke the left-it chokes the right.check to see if u have spark!!!!!!put a known firing plug in ur spark plug cap and lay it on the head.if u have spark and u know ur motor is tight-u have a fuel issue.i hope u got spark and are just missing ur choke tube-easy fixes are nice. :headbang:

  12. Yep I did I use castor 32 to1 . I pulled the plugs today and put new ones they were black and wet. But what confuses me is that after I put the new plugs it still did it then I pulled the choke out and it stoped but I thought when your plug was black and wet it was to rich so why when I pull the choke it runs fine? I'm so dam confused

    how long are u running the bike before you look at ur plugs?are you getting it hot and unloaded??if u let it idle for a while ur plugs will most likely be wet.are u sure ur pilots are clean??

  13. sweet..will the timing plate/cool heads add more low end power or what? Also will adding them effect jetting? thanks dude!

    proper timing will add horsepower-not sure how much unless u get into big mods and alot of timing.+4 will give a better low end torqey feel and rev a little quicker but wont rev as high.the cool head will add horsepower across the powerband as u have more compression-being u go with a smaller dome than stock size.i think stock is like 24cc-dont quote me i could be wrong.20ccs will add power for sure.really shouldnt affect jetting,but checking plugs frequently is easy insurance and takes 2 minutes.

  14. lol i kno I HAVE DECIDED ON t-6's over the sst's purley because toomey tells me how to jet it. IVE NEVER jetted a bike so this is REALLY APPEALING to me. now all i need answered are these questions:What reeds are the best for them?, should i use a timing plate? and should i install a cool head w smaller domes? Also does the bare/plain finish rust easily? PLEASE OPINIONS?? ILL NEVER POST AGAIN ABOUT THESE DAMN EXHAUSTS!!!!

    dont make the jetting fact the reason ur gonna go one way or another.its not hard to jet,it just takes a little time and patience.the ssts or any pipe really will be similar in jetting.ull probably end up with a 290ish in there regardless of pipe.hell,toomeys recommendations are most likely not spot on anyway,especially if you install reeds.as for reeds-the v3s are the way u want to go if your setting up for top end,they are nice reeds i think.timing plate,get one and try it.like u said,u can always go back to zero if you dont like it-u probably will like it advanced to 4.the cool heads are sweet.u get more cooling and can change domes quickly for more compression.i wouldnt go lower than 20cc domes for 93 pump gas.u can go lower but u get into 50/50 with 110 and 93,and like straight 110 with like 18-17s-i believe.20s are good so if ur with ur buddies and u run out of gas u can use theirs and not worry about race fuel.if money is tight,i would get pipes and head before the reeds-youll make more power with the head instead of the reeds.get the chariot 1 piece head-i have it and it is very nice quality and havent had any o-ring leaks or any issues.as for the bare/plain finish-they definately rust easier.they sell them cheaper because they arent coated.most people will get them powdercoated or take very good care of them.id say wash them real good after every ride and spray em with wd-40 if you are going the plain route.

  15. I will be rejetting soon, the gas is only two weeks old I ran out went to the gas station and filled it up I put it in the day before I left and rode it a little bit not sure how fast it would seperate. I had the carbs out day before yesterday and apart they were a little dirty so I thought it might have been that so I cleaned them, same thing happen. The tors is unpluged but I will soon get an tors eleminator. What size jets do you think I should use not to familiar. And I'm thinking of junking the boost bottle what's do you all think. Thanks again for the help.

    you havent stated what size mains u have in there now,im sure they arent 200s since its piped.just go up 2 sizes from whats in it,1 size is 10,so if you have 290s in there you would need 310s (going up 2).as for the boost bottle-you dont have to get rid of it since you have it-it wont make a difference.thats why people shouldnt buy one-they dont make a difference,but since u have it fuck it.or out ur stocker on and ebay that one if u dont want it.make sure all jets are clean and try some new plugs. :cheers:

  16. i dt wanna sound like an ass but isnt it the point of buying an adjustable timing plate so... you canadjust it lol? if i dont like it i can always change it back.

    um-yeah if it helps ur cause.u want top end-it will hurt that.if u like adjusting shit buy some lrds.

  17. i got a 2004 banshee this is the third time i have had this problem. when i bought the bike it would wun good intermititantly but bad most of the time and was spitting gas out of the right pipe cost 270 to have the carbs rebuilt. ran great for a month. put fmf fatty and power core pro flow kit and k&n jetted myself ran great for about 2 months went on vaccation and had to rejet the bike for elevation and temp diff ran good 2 days then just quit. no acceleration or power. revs good. tore everthing from the heads back off cleaned nothing wrong disconected the tors. finaly took out the choke and tube cleaned then ran great.

     

    this time rode for about an hour then started to loose top end checked plugs good. pulled choke and cleaned ran good put gas for another ride and no power at all . pulled both carbs and cleaned everything put together and no power. loaded up and brought it home. took off the trailer and cracked on it first gear ripped good, then second gear on all bog

     

    just wondering what the problem could be the carb has been rebuilt every year since new its starting to get expensive

    why do u keep cleaning the carbs?sounds like a deeper problem.it sounds like it needs a top end!check ur compreesion before u keep trying to jet it,ur just chasing ur tail.get a compression tester-heat the bike to operating temp and shut it off.put the guage in the spark plug hole and kick it with throttle wide open until the guage stops climbing.u should have no less than 100 psi. in each cyl.if ur under its time for pistons or u have a compression leak as in head gasket,o-rings in head,base gaskets.if u have good compression do leakdown and look for other issues,vaccuum leak or whatever..also-ouch on 270 to rebuild just ur carbs?????that hurts me!!!!!

  18. the transfers are the most restrictive part of the banshee ports :)

    but yeh i would say theres prob no porting

     

    volcrano the pipes are still going good :cheers:

    i feel ya brother,but everyday dude doesnt have the tools to get in the transfers.they would have been done by a somewhat knowledgeable person that had the tools.if they would have had the tools for the transfers-they would have done the intakes.im just busting balls here cuz im bored :rotflmao: glad to hear the pipes are treating u well.i miss the sound and top end banghead but my setup now is right for the riding i do.

  19. I'm not sure how you all can say it doesn't have any porting done just by looking at a couple pics of the intakes. There obviously isn't any work done in the intakes but what about the exhuast and transfer ports?? Would need more pics/measurements to answer the question.

    would anybody do exhaust and transfers and not intakes?ive never seen it in my life and would bet money they have no porting.even if somebody wanted to attempt to "clean up"-they would do the intakes and probably leave it alone.

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