DVS1

sold...

Thanks bro! TTT!

Took the shee out to Glamis for Turkey day and had a blast. Going to be busy and wont be riding. Lowering the price to make a sweet deal. $3700 obo.

Ok, its not a hillshooter... its a trail bike! Bump!

2006 Banshee, titled and reg in Az. Customized powdercoated lightened frame and harness Stock bore and stroke Drag ported by Kenz Trued and welded Weisco pistons Cool head 175psi each cylinder Billet intakes w/ 38mm PJs and K&N pods w/ outerwears Chrome out frame CPI small bore pipes Stock trans new clutch w/ HD springs Rewound Stator lightened flywheel w/ billet adjustable timing plate at +4 Oversized HD radiator by Torch Works Chrome anti-vibe stem +2+1 ishock front arms with F8 ishocks +4 square tube ext swinger Lonestar ext axle Full bore plastics painted gloss black Douglas blue lables w/ haulers and Kendas. Dirt tires on stock rims. Some more small things on the bike, but that should be a close list of the major stuff. No front brakes. Was said to make 74hp on Kenz dyno. The drag port hits hard, but I was still able to dune it even with no front brakes. I have a shit ton of reciepts. Pics don't show, but I also just put on a 3 piece billet flamed stator cover. I've only had it out to Glamis for one 3 day trip and it pulled Olds nicely. Really didn't want to get rid of it but I'm building a 5 seat LT rail with a LS1. $4500 obo

I was so close to picking this up, but I held out. Looks like he has another Super Cub 10mm on ebay. I'm so tempted, but I've heard Super Cubs were not the way to go. Regardless, looks like a nice motor. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220630428239&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Thanks, replied...

TTT I could come down on the banshee a bit, probably not on the Raptor as I'm already taking a big loss. I'll "entertain" offers though :cool:

As far as comparing the Raptor to the Shee, the suspension is completely aftermarket on the Raptor so the ride and handling is just way more bitchin than the Shee. As far as power, I thought my piped banshee was fast until I got on the raptor. It flat out RUNS, not walks, away from the banshee. The power band is really broad on the raptor, lots of torque. If your in too high of a gear, most times just give it the throttle and it will pick up, where as the shee you probably already know that you need to be in the Rs to really take off. I don't know, I really like both bikes for their pros/cons. As far as the chrome goes, when I stripped both bikes to coat the frames, I just took some pieces to a local chroming shop. Small pieces like pegs and mounts are pretty cheap, its when you do A-arms, swingers, sub-frames, etc when the price can go up. Thanks again fellas...

thanks, I've always been into 2 strokes and the raptor was only supposed to be a clean up and flip type bike, but I couldn't stop. I'm still reluctant to sell the Banshee because I've had it so long and am attached to it, the Raptor I want to get rid of BEFORE I get too attached to it. hahaha Seriously though, I'm stepping up to a big daddy long travel sandrail and need the money and space. A couple more pix.

I just built the Raptor. Its an 03 Limited Edition, but fully customized now. Its only been to Glamis for Thanksgiving since complete build up and breaking in the motor, literally only bombed the hill maybe 8-10 times and flew down the drags 3-4 times. It whoops anything stock and I was walking an Athena Big Bore and cammed YZF450 up Olds hill no problem. Beside straight up drag bikes, I didn't get out ran. Lots of time and money invested, but I'll just highlight some things that I can think of off the top of my head. 102mm 11:1 Wiesco to make 686cc with matching cometic gasket set Stage 2 hot cam with double springs +1 Kibblewhite Valves Port/polish, intake port matched, serdi valve job and assembly by KenzCycleTech GYTR HD clutch LRD full exhaust Proflow w/ K&N no lid Trailtech billet Torch lights Clear tube mod and jetting that runs pretty good. Marvin Shaw Coilovers anodized blue with chrome springs +2 +1 Chromoly ASR A-Arms and tie rods (Chrome plated) +6 Chromoly ACE Fabrication swinger with billet round house RAD double row carrier. (Chrome Plated) +4 Lonestar Axcaliber axle & LSR locknut(Chrome Plated) Powder coated frame and misc small parts candy blue over metallic. (Sparkles in sunlight) Lots of polished aluminum. There is a few more little things but I think they're shown in the pictures. I'll explain if someone is interested. No problems with the bike at all and I was very happy with it out in the dunes. Price is with a full set of new dirt tires on ITPs and the rear paddles on douglas rims. You couldn't duplicate this for what I'm asking and I'm taking a loss. Also for sale is an 01 Banshee. Toomey T5 Piped, DJ jetted dual K&N pods, tors eliminated, billet impeller, advanced timing plate, lightened flywheel, but stock motor. 3 year old hinson clutch with no issues. Still had 123psi compression last time I rode it and the top end has never been apart. Powdercoated black frame, complete flamed billet package, polished clutch cover, and some chrome. Full set of dirt and sand rims/tires for it. Asking $10k for both. I have over $9k in the Raptor alone. I will sell both bikes separately $3500 for the Banshee and $7000 for the Raptor. Chandler, Az email me at ibadvs1@hotmail.com

It took me over 2 hrs cycling the break lever to finally build pressure. I had the master cap off, kept fluid damn near full, and every cycle of the lever would cause a tiny bubble to come up out of the line and slowly the fluid level would go down. I mean a tiny ass bubble too, but I just kept cycling and eventually no more bubbles and the lever built pressure. I just had to keep going well beyond the point of "this is fucking bullshit".

After I installed a lightened flywheel, I forgot to check pick-up coil gap and had a very similiar situation. Closed the gap down and ran fine. G/L

Check this out. I went to go back to 0 deg. and found the coil pick up gapped pretty far from the bump on the flywheel. Also pulled the flywheel again to make sure it was on the key straight. It was and is now too. I'm not using a degree key. Tell me if you think being this far away may have caused some of what I was experiencing. I have it set now to about .025-.030 gap. It's as close as I could get it. pick is before the fix btw

put the castle nut back on upside down about flush with the ball joint threads, then use a 2x4 over the nut and smack it with a hammer. The nut will protect the threads and give a bigger surface area to hit. Don't go crazy, but it should drop out of there.

I do have a stupid boost bottle, but it started started to crack the stock intake boots last halloween so I replaced them with UPPs before the Easter trip (also when I cleaned carbs) and all was good. Also went over all that shit before I went riding this time too and seemed good. I'm using the seam where the case halves come together at the +4 mark. It's an Ebay adjustable plate, maybe its off and I'm more advanced than I think. ????? I'm going to put it at 0 deg and run it down here again to see, just need time. Work too much... Thanks for insights fellas.

me too x 126

I'm pretty sure it was detonating. Sounds like ball bearings in the cylinder. I got off it and limped it back to camp both times it started acting up. Last time I really rode it was at Gordons well for Easter, but it's been started and warmed up, first gear rip in the street then back to the garage probably 3-4 times since then. I completely went through the carbs before the Easter trip to the dunes. These were new plugs before the Easter dune trip. When I got back from Gordons well they were good, ie light chocolate milk. This is after two 15-20 minute rides.

Ok so I have a stock motor 01 with T5s, K&N pods, Dynojet kit, no lid. It was a friends bike since new. I bought it from his wife a little over a year ago cuz he died. I have only ridden it at Glamis and Gordons well and its always been flawless. He used to let me ride it when he was alive 2-3 yrs ago. Jetting is correct for the dunes eventhough I don't know what size. Cant ask cuz he's dead and never needed to check. I recently put in a lightned flywheel, adjustable timing plate set to +4, billet impeller, and a Hinson clutch. I wouldn't normally do it, but I got invited to go ride up in the mountains at about 5000-6000 ft elevation. I didn't have time to rejet and figured it would just be pig rich and maybe at worst, foul out some plugs. The shee really ripped at first, but then when it seemed really wamed up it started bogging and detonating but really only on the left cylinder. I let it cool overnight, and the same thing. (Camping trip). I run straight pump gas VP 101 and Klots Super-techniplate at 40:1. I checked compression back here in Chandler,Az and have 128/125 left/right. I've always run this in the dunes with no issue. Question is why did it shit out after getting hot? It kicks ass for like 5-10 minutes then bogs and detonates. Could the gas just suck? It is pump "race" gas and I have no idea how often it gets cycled out and replenished new. Could the +4 advance cause or compound this? Is compression too low? It is a 5 year old top end. Sorry for the novel but details are important right? Any info would be appreciated...

regurgitate

I used the Aircraft stripper (Use acid gloves, shit still burns like hell through latex gloves) and Scotchbrite to take the paint off. Took a few times/coats too. I was going to use sandpaper and wetsand but after all the time spent on just getting the damn paint off, I said phuq it. Then I used a loose sewn wheel with a small enough arbor for my plug in, black and decker hand drill and polished with medium grade polishing compound from Lowe's. Then I hand polished with Mother's Billet polish. A bench grinder with polishing wheels might have polished out just a little better, but I didn't have one and I think it came out pretty good. Here's a pic 2 months later and after I had my greasy hands all over it and not wiping it down.

here are mine...