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400ccStroker_shee

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Posts posted by 400ccStroker_shee

  1. Same as head, 20ft/lbs. I recommend the same way as the head, start at 10, then 15, then 20 on each one (criss cross although). Do a search next time this is a very common question.

    Thanks bro I didn't have time to search!!! I'll search next time!!! Sorry for any inconvience.

  2. My Banshee with T6's and all the little shit was faster top end than an LTR with an exhaust and cherry bomb. Again, I'm not buying a drag bike, I have my turbo Banshee for that. I think I'm going to end up getting the LTR.

    And also the LTR has a lower seat and overall height than the YFZ. I guess its all a feel thing :shrug:

    its not so much the seat height is were the bars sit make it feel higher than the yfz.

  3. NOW THATS A BETTER RESPONSE TO THE TOPIC AND NOT TO THE PEOPLE. BEFORE YOU WENT OFF TOPIC AND BUSTED OUT WITH YOU PEOPLE STFU ABOUT 4 STROKES INSTEAD OF BASE'N YOUR RESPONSE ON THE TOPIC AT HAND..

     

    THEREFORE POST AWAY!! :thumbsup:

    heres my opinion on thr lt-r vs the yfz. In stock form! I have a yfz and my brother n law has a lt-r he's a little lighter then me about 50 lbs lighter he's 170, I'm 220. We are equally skilled riders. We raced several times and in stock form the yfz pulls by 1 to 2 bike lenghts.

     

    Now my brother in law put a cherry bomb and yoshi rs-5 full exhaust with spark arrestor out and no air box lid vs my yfz without an air box lid with K&N with billet adapter without the screen in the air box, spark arrestor out of stock exhaust and rejetted. The yfz pulled until about the beginning to middle of 4th gear then the lt-r gained a lot of power up top. Probably 3-4 bike lenghts.

     

    Next I was going to retard the exhaust cam on the yfz and thats suppose to give you more power up top with little bottom end scarafice.

     

    Now with that said my brother n law has spent about 650 dollars between the exhaust and cherry bomb and I only spent about 125 dollars for some jets and k&n with billet adaptor. After I retard the cam If I beat him the only mod that I spent money on is the K&N the bike is still pretty much stock, imagine with an aftermarket exhaust probably acouple more HP's.

     

    My opinion is both quads are good, I prefer the yfz because the power delivery feels strong all the way from bottom to top, the lt-r power delivery feels way to smooth for my comfort, I like to feel the power hit a little hard, thats probably because of my love for 2 strokes!!!! The lt-r sits a lttle too high for my comfort, but the lt-r has the better suspension feels softer and easier on the body for track or dunes. It's all going to come down to personal perferences and I hope this helps you in some way, if there is any other info you would like to know you can give me a shout and I'll help you to the best of my knowledge vs the 2

     

    I have no idea with the kfx450 sorry!!

  4. Pm sent, can you send pic?

     

    thanks,

    you can get custom graphics from huntgraphic.com You can send him a pics of what u want and he can make it for the banshee, the pricing I don't know because the guy sponsors my son, so I get discounts

  5. Does anyone know what a Skat-Trak Hauler 21x12x8x 8 paddle tire weighs? I'd like to find out if the Sand Haulers I picked up are much heavier.

     

    Thanks, Jay From SanD.

    Did u get those look a like skat trak off ebay. Are they any good? I was thinking about getting some for my wifes yfz450, I have some skat trak haulers and their pretty light.

  6. I run 270 mains with 27.5 pilots and needle on middle clip on my .60 over stock motor with pipes, airbox with no lid but I am at 0 elevation, you should for sure do a plug chop that way you know for sure, but that seems like it would be a bit rich IMO.

    My brother has fmf fatties and power core 2's with the airbox completely cut off and he is running 310 mains and 27.5 pilot and everything else is stock and he's a little rich at glamis, your plugs look a little rich if your looking at the porclein part it looks a little rich.

    looking at the pics again it looks like 1 plug is ok and the other is rich, that could be because carbs arent in sync

  7. Designing ports and such is trully my dream job. Im attending a trade school for mechanical engineering as of now. Where can i get these programs at? I am only 17 so i might have time to learn

    the tsr software you can google and just call the guy he is awesome, he has many different programs for different aspect in performance, the 2 programs I'm interested in are the port2000 and the new pipe program.

  8. ok, ive spent days searching for this before i posted it, and came up with little to nothing. i am porting my own cylinders and got one done pretty much, i want to go to the transfer ports but cant find much info on them. ive read you dont want to raise them much, but how wide can you go and still maintain a good overall powerband?? im not trying to step on maybodys toes here, like the real builders, just trying to accomplish sompthing for my own personal pride. i have a brand new set of untouched cylinders incase i screw up, but this is sompthnig i really want to try. ive been taking pics all along the way so you guys could give some constructive critisim, just have to develop them. and where is the best plact to buy a tool to get to the transfer ports?? cant find anything there either. i will try to post some pics soon too, polishing the cyls and head, looks cool.

    thanks a billion guys

     

    matt

    you can get some awesome porting tools at ccspecialtytool.com and cant really tell you how to port the transfers because that depends on what you did to the rest of the cylinder and what type of power you want, I know this because I'm starting to do all my own porting, I've read a lot of helpful material for macdizzy's 2 stroke page just goggle it, it has how to do cylinder mapping. I think in a week or so I'm going to order the tsr 2 storke porting software. Hope this helps u a little, I'm still a beginer with porting.

  9. It depends on what you are trying to do and how you are trying to do it. From an engineering standpoint the TSR software is pretty low-end, but if you don't have any experience with any CAD or CFD software, it is probably your best bet. The TSR software does take a bit more knowledge of engine theory and operation than the Race Logic templates do of course. :geek:

    well I'm tring to become someone who does good port jobs, I'm willing to learn whatever it takes. I was told tsr software was the best. what is cad and cfd. Thanks for all the input!

  10. Well said, some of us have "the feel" for it, I say giv'er, you'll do fine. Check out McDizzy's 2 stroke page, there is alot of info on there on some of the software available, as well a cylinder port mapping.

    Good luck to you :beer:

    Thanks for the info, I've been reading all macdizzy's stuff, thats where I got that boost bottle post but everyone here thinks he's an idiot.

  11. I have no knowledge of your abilities or equipment, but porting is a true art form that takes years of experience (and cylinders) to perfect. I wouldn't dare attempt it myself. As for your question, I'm not sure who else makes softwre for it.

    i have all the equipment i need and the only way to get good is to do it, a lot of people try to discourage me from doing my own porting, but everyone has to start sometime, my plan is to get really good and open my own shop.

  12. Dang I thought the purple powerband was the best bang 4 the buck last time I listen to my 4 year old nephew

    you guys are stupid. I do use a boost bottle, I didnt really feel a hp increase but I didnt feel a decrease either and it looks better than the stock tube. I just put that info out there because some people like info like that to make their own decision weather they want a boost bottle or not. any there is always someone out there that has to make a stupid ass comment. I'm also pretty sure that they didnt design the boost bottle to hurt the performance.

  13. i found this info while searching on the internet because I'm trying to learn how to do my own porting!

     

    Boost Bottle

    How does a Boost Bottle improve performance? Air rushes thru the carb on the intake cycle. Ignition accelerates the piston down, forcing the reeds to snap shut. The momentum (inertia) of the air has to go someplace. It goes back thru the carb causing a double rich mixture. The result can be rough idle or hesitation.

     

    Due to the high velocity of the fuel air mixture through the carb boot, we need to take advantage of this momentum/inertia energy. The Boost Bottle and tube provide storage for the fuel air mixture between carb boots. The energy (pulse) forces the pre-atomized mixture in the tube from the previous cycle into the adjoining carb boot where the reeds are just opening and ready to receive the fuel air mixture. The boost bottle and tube provide a "boost" supercharge effect to each cycle.

     

    The boost bottle is most effective at lower and mid-range rpm, and, when you are on & off the throttle. It assists in filling the cylinder (shorter distance) for a fraction of a second until the carburetor venturi gets enough velocity to fully atomize the fuel. The advantage is that it brings up the torque and horsepower in the bottom of the rpm range, up to where the pipe(s) starts to work. There is a small benefit at high rpm's.

     

    What Size? Singles = usually the CC of one cylinder or larger. 700cc Twins = 300cc boost bottle. 700cc Triples = 225cc.

     

    Variables: Engine CC's, Carb Size, RPM below pipe, Number of cylinders. Large carbs like larger bottles/tubes. Triples like smaller due to less time between pulses.

     

    I use the TSR computer software to calculate the Boost Bottle for a specific set up.

     

    Yes they work, when the size is right, the inertia of the air is stored like a spring in the boost bottle to help charge the next cycle. Try tuning a Yamaha Phazer without it's boost bottle!

     

    Power valve engines may not have similar performance gains because the valves will keep the bottom end crisp. Testing w/ powervalves will probably show gains off idle and low bottom end. Is it worth it?? That depends on what you are willing to pay for some torque and a couple of horses!

     

     

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  14. ok i have heard a couple of people say that the petals on the v3s tend to break so how man people have actually had one break?

    I haven't had one break yet on my shee or yz250, i think there awesome reeds

  15. Is your crank welded? If not...get that done. Otherwise, you have a great base for an alky bike!!

    I'd say 35PWK carbs...you could get 39's...but, I think you'll be happier with the overall output of 35's on alky.

    If you do get Shearers...then you're gonna be a pretty much all top end motor. Then get 39's.

    I'd go with 19 or 20cc domes as well, alky likes a bit more compression!!

     

    Again....weld that crank!!

     

    Ha...that's funny JT...same time, same stuff...:)

     

    :biggrin:

    The crank is trued and welded, so it sounds like 35 pwk's and still deciding on the pipe. one more question, i heard with mukini carbs they can go back and forth between gas and alky?

  16. 2 things. Most people run their alky from 20:1 to 28:1 premix ratio. And even if they left it at the common 32:1 mixture....they'd still be going through more oil due to you're be burning twice the amount of fuel (Alky)

    I agree on the purging. I wouldn't leave it in there for a long time, but...if you have a long weekend of riding...and ride it every day, then purge it at the end of the ride OR when you get home, I'd say you're gonna be fine...

    I won't be purging mine daily...no way!

    the carbs do need power jets in them for tuning it in.. the power jets are auxillary jets put on the filter side of the slide in the carb.. there are a few different types out there from some that use actual jets in them to adjustable ones that have a needle type screw in them..

     

    and aggressive dune port would do fine on alcohol.. just keep an eye on your gas tank..

    Yep yep!!!

    I ride sand only. my mods are an stock bore, aggressive dune port, +6 timing, pro design coolhead with 21cc domes, for right now I have fmf fatties with powercore 2's, but I was thinking of switching to shearers or cpis. Thanks guys if you can help me with what type of carbs would be best for me and other mods that would help this thing scream!!! For right now I just want to keep the bore and stroke stock!!!

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