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I am installing v force3 reed cages on my banshee right now and I am not sure where the gasket goes. Does it go between the reed cage and the intake boot or does it go between the reed cage and the cylinder. or do you use a gasket at both spots. Please help as I am doing this right now. Thanks

Sent you a pm. I will take them. Let me know your paypal addy.

good call. water is beading up on the end of the spark plug. and come to think of it I have smelled a "sweet" smell on last run. I figured it was coolant that overspilled on the pipes when I filled it up. Damm , looks like I will be swapping the gaskets this weekend. Well i guess it is a small price to pay and an easy fix to something that could have been a major repair.Thanks for all the help and info guys! :biggrin:

It was raining slightly last time I took it for a rip,and I did hit a few puddles, maybe that has something to do with the water in the pipe. As for the leakdown tester.... I used (2) 1 inch pvc caps from home depot to plug the intake boots.(51 cents each) The I got two rubber 1 3/8 colapsable pipe plugs for the exhaust ports. ($3.60 each) I got a tire stem and valve from a local tire shop for free. I drilled a half in hole in one of the pvc caps and shoved the tire stem into it. I then put 7 lbs of air in it with my small compresor. I checked it with my low pressure tire guage. Guess I gota start to test the electrical system now

Did a leakdown test today and all was good. Held 7 lbs for 10 minutes. The one thing that seemed weird though was when I removed the left pipe that I noticed alot of condensation on the exhaust port. Then when i swung the fmf out of the way a nice amount of water poured out of the pipe as it must have been sitting in one of the bends. What the hell is this from? The right side was dry( the side firing properly). Where do i go to trouble shoot from here now that i know its not the crank seal or any other seals for that matter (the engine is air(pressure) tight). Please help! Thanks guys! -B P.s. I made my leakdown tester for only $8.59. Thanks to the search button I figured out everything I needed and it worked like a charm.

me too.... please give some advice.

I just took another look at the bike and I noticed that on the side that is not firing properly that the exhaust is real loose. It can move around with your hand where it connects to the motor. Could this cause the problem because it definatly doesnt seem sealed. Just a shot in the dark.

How can I check my coil? Wouldnt the problem switch sides when I swap plug wires if that was the problem?

Is there a step by step thread for this somewhere?

what do I have to do for a leak down test?

The second side does fire, just not nearly as much as the "good" side. If you apply gas sometimes it will kick in and run great, than after a few seconds the left side will bog than run good, than bog,. I almost feel that is has something to do with throttle position. it looks and seems like the carbs are sinced and they open and close at the same time. what wil a leakdown test show me/ Nothing else is abnormal. No fluids are mixing with each other...does not spit and kinds of fluids...does not smoke from anywhere and no signs of leaks. The intake boots are also new and definatly dont have an air leak. :shoothead:

tors is deleted. How do i check the coil? Is it specific from side to side? Would it cause the bike to run the same when switching the plug wires?

choke tube is in place, slides are proper, carbs just got a fresh cleaning yesterday and 1 month ago along with the reeds during the rebuild. They looked fine. :baseball_wibble:

the left side is the one that misses. The plugs are not fouling cause I swapped in new plugs and it still did the same thing. How can it be the plugs, wires or cdi if I switched the plug wires from side to side and it still misses on the left side. This is realy puzzling me

My banshee is firing on 0n 1 cylinder %80 of the time. It is an 04 w/ fmf pipes , dynojet jet kit and weisco .20 pistons and a k&n filter...lid on with no snorkel. I cant figure out the problem. The top end is a fresh rebuild and ran great for the first half hour. Now it sputters and is slower than my blaster and only has slightly over an hour on it if even. I did a comp test and both sides read 135. I cleaned the carbs and swapped the plug wires and no change from side to side in preformance. I put new br8es plugs in and it still only fired on one side. I am runing 32.1 motul with 94 octain. The jets are 280 / 25 and i am at sea level here in south florida. Please help me trouble shoot the problem so I can get back on the road again. Thanks! :shoothead: -Bryan

Well I pulled the water pump cover today and all I can say is wow. This thing was worn down to a small nub. No fins on it at all. Well at least its a cheaper fix than a new head or other issues mentioned. Now where can i get a nice upgraded impeller? I know the gears are fine cause I held the nub and kick started it with my hand and it definatly spins.

Head gasket is brand new. Less than 1/2 hour on it and rebuild. I am definatly starting to think it is the water pump. I guess I will be pulling that out tomorrow. I have a feeling that is it and that is why the top small hose going into the front of the head is " chugging" cause it is trying to suck the coolant past the broken water pump.

It has stock timing. it is jetted properly and bolts where torqued properly. I think it is just traping air. How do I get the bubbles out? How do I test flow?

Just got my 04 banshee back together after rebuilding the top end and fixing a bunch of other issues it had. Now when I ride it for more than 5 min I can hear the coolant bubbling. How do I get all the air out of the system? When it is boiling you can see the small coolant hose that goes into the head is "chugging" back and forth. Also Coolant is sometimes boiling out from the overflow hose on the side of the rad. I am running 50/50 water/cooant with a splash of water wetter. What can be my problem and how do I fix it. I wanna ride and I dont wanna warp the head. Please help!. Thanks.

Are the slides in the carbs supposed to be completly shut when the bike is off? Mine have a small gab on the front side and I was wondering if this is normal. I am trying to get them sync'ed up. Thanks in advance.

I have my motor apart and I have a question about the reeds. Are they supposed to be completly shut ( sealed) when the bike is not running? The lower ones on mine have a slight gap in them where they close. Can I just inscrew the reeds that are not sealing and flip them over so they would seal? Also on the cages I noticed there is a small line in the cast on one side ( some sort of marker) Are these lines supposed to be on top or bottom? Thanks for the help

Just had the top end rebuilt on my banshee. What is the proper way to break it in as I want this rebuild to last awhile. Thanks in advance!

I stated my mods in my post and also that I am at sea level

The bike has the tors delete. How far are the slides supposed to open and close? Is the indent in the slide supposed to line up with the "sight hole" when fully open? Mine goes past a little.

How do I re-sinc the carbs after I have removed them and cleaned them all out?