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venomaxx

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  • My Banshee (optional)
    1996 Banshee Mostly all red but going for Dale Jr. colors NOSS cool head with 20cc domes Toomey T5's K&N pods Hinson clutch basket G-Force rear axle Stock carbs flat bored to 28mm (so I was told) Hi-Flo water impellar Tusk chromoly tie rods and ends Procom aggresive curve CDI (If I can get it to work) Toomey carb tops

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  1. Thanks for the info RILS. Is there no one out there that has had or is having this problem? I've read numerous threads but no one has come back on them to say whether or not they rectified the problem and for that fact what the issue was that caused it. I'm begging for all your assistance. :baseball_wibble:
  2. I searched for a week trying to find a 96 CDI for my bike without having to go to the stealership. Was looking through E-bay and came across a Procom aggressive curve CDI for a 97. I wired in the old plugs off of my old CDI and just left the extra wire (Green with yellow stripe) hanging in the breez. Was this the right thing to do or is this wire supposed to be connected to something for the bike to run? I guess to get right to the problem, when I hooked up the new CDI the bike didn't so much as even make an effort to turn over. But when I re-wired in the old CDI it almost started. Motor sounded totally different between the 2 CDI's. Now with this new CDI being classified as a "Aggressive Curve" CDI, and I believe it is given this title in regards to the timing curve, does this mean that I have to adjust my timing plate back to zero for this new CDI to work? Right now my plate is set at +3*. On a lighter note has anyone had the problem of their bike starting up fine when it's stone cold and then tuning into a royal pain in the arse when you attempt to start it after it's been warmed up? If there is someone can you PLEEEEEEEEASE let me know what the problem was so that I can resolve it?
  3. I had sort of the same problem in that my problem was whenever I turned to the right the front right tire would almost go 90* from straight. Funny thing is it didn't seem to have a problem when turning to the left. Tried to do the tie-rod adjustment but ended up with one wheel toed in farther than the other. Ended up going to a welder and having the frame stop built up and also the stem stops. Didn't have to put much material on them to resolve the problem. Just do your fine adjustments with your tie-rods after your done with the stops. Hope it helps.
  4. I had this same problem when I got done with a rebuild and came to find out that I had the slides reversed (slide for right carb in left carb and vicea versa). After switching them back I didn't have another problem at all with the bike idleing.
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