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nitroburner13

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Posts posted by nitroburner13

  1. Selling my asphalt drag banshee. There is lots of time and money in this bike and have a stack of receipts to prove it. First I'll start with the engine. Perfect cases no chain damage have been ported to match cylinders. 1-5 full override transmission with nuetral in stock position. Cut shift star mod. Billet clutch basket, stock pressure plate and hub, Barnett dirt digger plates. Hinson quick change clutch cover. Billet high flow water pump impellar. 200w ricky stator. Billet pro design stator plate. Stock crank has been trued and welded by metal tech and has tz and max load bearing. Has 115 long rods and new rod bearings makes it a 370 long rod motor. Cylinders have been welded and ported to a full drag port and port timed for the long rod pistons. Billet pro design cool head with 16cc big bore domes. 34mm keihn pj carbs set up on alcohol with powerjets. k&n filters. Msd ignition that runs off a 7.2 volt battery. Two step launch limiter set up on clutch lever switch. small bore out of stator side drag pipes. frame has been completely lightened and redone by metal tech. Has a removable chrome subframe. stock length forward one chrome drag lite a arms by metal tech. drag spindles. adjustable aluminum front struts. 10x2 spindle mount wheels with brand new tires. +2 lonestar anti vibe steering stem with straight drag bars. stock tank and stock drag cut plastics. new seat cover. +10 dave moore swingarm. stock linkage and chromoly strut. -2 axle and stock hubs. billet lonestar roundhouse carrier. 10 inch douglas blue label wheels with brand new 20 inch american racer tires. I'm sure there are things missing from this list but thats the majority. This bike has run an 11.76 quarter mile at 105mph. Consistantly runs low 12's on a rich tune. I really don't need to sell it but would like to move on to building my car. Would consider trading for another fox body mustang or some things I need done at my house. I am even looking for a high end shotgun. browning or kolar or anything alike. any questions call Adam 602-502-4019

    im in glendale,az

     

    here is a video link of the 11.76 pass

    post-22195-12806395082161_thumb.jpg

  2. We use a ignition kill for 5 & 6. It allows for clutchless full throttle shifts.

     

     

    is that a dyna programmable cdi? or is it a seperate box. are there any sources on how to wire up a system like that and what all i need for the ignition kill. i also want a shift light but have no idea how to wire to a 2 stroke.

  3. im running a cut stocker from metal tech here in phoenix. its held up great so far im just concerned if im gonna need 6th to make it to the lights. im gonna be running 1/4 mile. 1/8th mile isnt long enough for my taste

  4. +4 swingarm stock style carrier-$180

     

    jp racing +2 axle-$100

    stock rear shock revalved by pep for 180 pound rider-$85

     

    ENGINE PARTS

    stock cylinders that were ported by d&m racing here in phoenix. it is a full drag portand ported for a lond rod crank. no booster but the transfers are huge. these cylinders made 66 hp on d&m's dyno last month. it was on methanol and running t-5s-$400 (comes with wiseco prolites)

     

    stock stroke long rod crank. hot rod connecting rods, tz bearing, maxload bearing, completely welded by metal tech and was only a half a thousandth out when it was checked-$250

     

    pro design coolhead with 19cc domes-$165

     

    1-5 override tranny cut by metal tech-$275

  5. The treads on the adjuster are recessed down inside the tube. Look into the adjuster and you will see a space where there are no threads. Make sure your lock tight is actually getting down into the threads.

    Last time this happened to me, I used a japnut (a nut with plastic in the end to keep it form backing off) for a lock nut. I assembled everything and adjusted the pusher without lock tight and tightened the jap nut against the pusher. Then I pulled the pressure plate so I could get the pusher out without disassembling it. I pulled the pusher off the threaded rod being careful not to move the jap nut. I coated the threads with lock tight and screwed the pusher to the lock nut and tightened as tight as I could. Then put the adjuster back into the cliutch and reinstalled the pressure plate. So far, everything is staying put.

     

    Rick

     

     

    ill give thst a shot! thanks man!

  6. hey guys, i am running stock stroke dune ported stock jugs, t-5's, 33 pwks with pods, noss head with 18 cc domes at 1000' elevation, +4 timing v-force 3 reeds. I'm wanting to go faster but I dont have much of a budget to work with. I would really like to have a 421 cub but cant afford the jugs, crank, pipes to compliment the jugs, piston kit and maybe even a lock up and over ride. my current cylinders can not be reported for the 4 mil, so if I went for a 4 mil stock jug set up I would have to get another set of jugs, have them ported and a 4 mil crank and piston kit, and domes for the 4 mil. if I went for the stock stroke cub all i would need are the cylinders, piston kit, and domes correct?? which would run harder the 4 mil drag ported stock jugs or the stock stroke cub?

     

     

    i would def. go with the cub. no question

  7. i recently put a needle bearing clutch pusher in my bike but i keep having problems with the adjustment screw backing out and then i have no clutch. its happened to me three time. ive put lock nuts on it and ive put lock tight on it but still no luck. any ideas? what am i missing?

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