Dcuzz23

yeh that sux----o well-gotta learn sometime huh-

i think i have a bad crank seal on the clutch side of my engine. this bank (passenger side)is running xtremely rich and smells like burnt gear oil. note wutever is behind the exhaust when its running gets covered in oil. also the bike as soon as it starts revs right up and wont idle down-sounds like about half throttle. the rich side is smoking like i poured a gallon of engine fog in the cylinder and heats up really fast as the opposing cylinder stays cool and despite the high engine idle seems to be combusting properly. the heat on the passenger side leads me to believe that its burning the gear oil as it makes its way pass the seal resulting in the uncontrolable raise in rpm. is this possible?? if not wut could cause this?? if so--can i replace the seal without splitting the cases or do they have to be split. please help!!! ::

:shrug: well i went ridin for like the fourth time since i got my shee back together and im still working out the kinks. i installed ricky stator 200wstator,voltage regulator,cdi, adj. plate, and enhanced flywheel. the problems im having is where the throttle cable rubs on the little metal bar attached to the top steering stem clamp has rubbed its way through the rubber jacket and the metal underneath the rubber outside coating is rubbing the metal bracket and arcing is taking place when they contact eachother. also i have a voltage problem cause i keep blowing up mr-16 lamps with 24volts add high rpm. when i test voltage between the throttle cable and the metal bar it arcs to im getting 6volts. i checked for pinched wires in the harness and there is none. i m pretty sure i hooked up the voltage regulator correctly. i put the yellow wire of the regulator to the blue wire the old one was hooked up to and grounded the brown to the frame. is the brown wire NOT supposed to be hooked up to ground? i am at a loss for words. kinda wierd to me. the bike runs fine and when the arcing does take place there is no effect in performance.

i didn't change the rims and tires; the problem didn't exist until new a arms tie rods. the front hub bearings are brand new just did them. ill triple check em but they were tight. if they are tight ill swap front tires w/ a bud and see if still exists?

was riding my bike on street and when i hit 4th gear and started gaining mph my front wheels started vibrating llike crazy and got worst with more speed(almost impossible to hold onto bars). im guessing that the front end is out of alignment but the quad drives and stops straight. i spent a lot of time setting it up knowing i would have to adjust it but im unsure what adjustments are needed. i got fully adjustable asr a-arms+2+1. i haven't messed with it yet. figured id ask yall first. :beer:

YOUR THE MAN! i went through a bunch of shit looking for one then i just had one made. i looked in a lot of databases like the one you showed me but never looked in the the shift fork section->IDIOT!----thanxs a lot

On the engine cases there are small machined aluminium plugs that fit into the case in certain spots (around the sprocket) and if they arent installed tranny fluid spills out. there about the size of a lithium watch battery. i had a machinist make one and it worked for a while but it gave way. does anybody have one? they are not available at the dealership so hopefully someone has one

i forgot to say that ther in excellent shape also; the stingers are a lil blued along with the first couple inches of the main pipes. toomey wouldnt give me back my t-5s that they talked me into buying so now im trying to find a good home for em. Deb@toomey told me to send her the pipes (t-6's) and 350$ and they'd send me t-5's. i argued and argued and eventually told her id never buy another toomey product again since i had originally called just for one t-5 pipe cause the chrome was destroyed and they said send us your t-5s and 400$ and well send you the best pipe on the market period. this was 2yrs ago and i just got my bike back together bout 3 mos and am not pleased with there performance on my bike now. which i knew was gonna happen since i did all kinds of shit to it from reading yalls forums about the t-6. :baseball_sleep: anyway for my bike when i had the stock carbs and porting it ran great. :biggrin:

Selling pipes,stingers,silencers and ill even throw in stock carbs with idle screws installed(not a big deal or nothing i just figured id get rid of em with the toomey needles instead of just the needles) make me an offer there making great low and mid power but there hurtin my setup on top to much. they were awsome on my bike till i changed carbs/intakes and a lil portin.

ditto- thanx

sounds like a TORS problem to me. the switch on the thumb throttle could be f'd up or sumthing. if the black wire with yellow stripe i believe isn't grounded it will do that.

I PC'D THE FRAME, DID THE SUSPENSION, REBUILT TOP END, CLUTCH, STATOR +TIMING PLATE, THE LIST GOES ON. I DONT HAVE THAT RUBBER BUSHING BEHIND THE CLUTCH PLATES. AS SOON AS I PULL THE CLUTCH THE NOISE GOES AWAY AND ITS INTERMITTENT. SOMETIMES IT DOES IT SOME TIMES IT DONT BUT IT DEFINATELY SOUNDS LIKE IT COMING FROM THE STATOR SIDE. I HAD MY TOP CASE HALF REPLACED AND ALL NECCESARY GEARS IN THE PRIMARY DRIVE BECAUSE A YR AGO IN THE SNOW A CHUNK OF ICE BUILT UP ON THE CLUTCH LEVER(ON THE CASE) AND I PROCEEDED RIDING(VERY DRUNK) MAKE A LONG STORY SHORT I HEATED, SWELLED, AND SIEZED EVERY COMPONENT OF THE CLUTCH UP TITE AND MY ENGINE GUY DISSASEMBLED AND AND REPLACED EVERYTHING THAT WAS BAD. CLUTCH CHATTER MAKES SENSE BUT IM GONNA PULL OFF THE STATOR COVER JUST TO BE SURE. THANX

i just got my quad all back together and i noticed a sound coming from the engine when its running and in nuetral. when i pull in the clutch it goes away. it sounds like rough to like the stator or something is loose but its not that. any ideas?

does anybody know where to get some fancy footpeg bolts. ive looked around but 10mmx1.25 seems to be an odd size. dude used to sell em ebay but he passed away and the guys company ended. i kept calling and finally guys wife told me. he had high grade stainless 12pt bolts. i looked and cant even find it in stainless let alone 12 pt and xtra-strong.

how long did the ball joints and heims last. i just got a set and after staring at them on the bike i thought about em being totally exposed to the elements.

STILL GOT THOSED CASE COVERS? IF SO PM A PIC OR EMAIL TO DCUZZ23@COMCAST.NET. THANX

front brake lever is that with a master cylinder--is it silver?

how much for the propeg nerfs and heel gaurds and can i c pics

SWEET I THOUGHT OF THAT SINCE I TRADED IN T-5S FOR EM THANX

trade ya a set of mint t-6s for t-5s just pipes

the pipes have less than ten hours on them- there mint im changing my setup and would rather have t-5s. i enjoyed them and my bike ran great the ten hours i used them.

Haven't got to use them yet but they look great. he re did my works fronts and stock rear. glad to hear good feedback on the ride afterwards. will let yall know when i ride on em.

THE RUBBER BOOT THAT HAS AN ALLEN BOLT GOING THROUGH IT (ATTACHED TO CALIPER MOUNT) IS TRASHED AND APPARENTLY YOU CANT BUY IT! ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS? IS THIS PIECE CRITICAL?

6mmx1.00all others 7mmx1.00-motor mount bolts only 8mmx1.25all others 10mmx1.25foot peg bolts only thes for taps are all u need to tap a whole entire frame did it the long way.

Im trying to find sizes and thread pitches for the banshee frame. i got the tools just looking for a list or something that would simplify the process and to eliminate errors with wrong taps. i know theres some where where you can find this out figured id ask yall first. thanks