dawarriorman

My last thought on the subject, since everybody's mind is already made up, and not open to other options. Why on earth are you comparing Works anything to someone like PEP, Axis, TCS or whoevers new rear. Of course those companies are going to be better than anything works can put out. Send a rear to TCS or Derisi or someone like that, and then compare it to a new rear. Don't just base your comparison of rebuilt rears on something that Works gave you.

Heres my other thought on porting stock cages. The tip of the reed is what opens, the base of the reed isn't going to move that much. Removing all that material from the base of the reed isn't going to really open it up for much more flow at all. It might look impressive, but I doubt its doing much at all.

125 lbs, with 21cc domes. At sea level with stock port. Yeah I know, time for a rebuild. Just waiting on some money.

Pretty much all the other ATFs have the same friction modifiers that the oils do. Type F is doesn't, and lets the clutch hook up good.

23cc jrod -- Sometimes compression testers, more often cheaper ones, will just read off. Just check a few times and make sure it keeps getting the same reading (so you know its at least consistantly off). If its not consistant, then you might want to get a new one.

Somethings not right, 21s should only get you to 156 at sea level, so 22s would be less than that. But either way, you would need at least 50/50 with 19s.

For MX it would be bad. No point in having ground clearance there, all you do is raise the center of gravity. That and the bigger tires will weigh more, and suck horsepower. For harescrambles it would be good, although you would probably want to gear down. I used to have 22" holeshot XCTs when I first got my banshee, and once I went to 20" XCRs, I won't go back.

Thats what I heard, and the reason it won't do much. I think the people that notice a difference had more of a psychological response (they really thought it was going to do something, so their mind made them think they noticed a difference). Think about it, 26mm carbs have an area of 5.3 sq cm. I know the reed cages are bigger than that.

PM sent. And just a thought, the problem with carbon fiber reeds seems to be they will break sooner or later right? Well I wonder how the carbon fiber / kevlar hybrid fabrics would work for a set of reeds. Kevlar should keep them from breaking, and possibly make them not quite as stiff for a wider powerband.

I've heard nothing but bad about ASR. I can't count how many people Ive heard of breaking them, and I know of 2 people at the local MX track that broke a set.

What makes a rebuilt rear shock inferior? If he totally rebuilds it, then the only thing he's using are the shock body and shaft. Both of which have no effect on performance. The only possible benefit of a new aftermarket shock would be increased travel, but he say's thats possible rebuilding the stocker. Now if you can find some factual reason that a new aftermarket is better than a rebuilt stocker, then Im ready to listen.

Are these carbon fiber reeds? fiberglass? special weeve? whole cage, or just replacement reeds? And sorry for doubting you, but evey manufacturer says theres is the best and make more horsepower than everyone elses. Why should we believe you over everyone else? Send Jim some, he is a reputable person, and I believe people would trust him.

Ok, good to know, no more Castrol then. Im curious though, do you have that info on the computer, and if so could you email it to me [email protected] . The boat shop I used to work at used NAPA oil, and all the mechanics swore by it. I took it with a grain of salt, but I guess they were on to something.

Why on earth would you have to change it that often? How many miles do you put on your car before you change the ATF? A LOT. Now sure your going to ride your quad harder than a car, but really, enough to have to change it that often? I just changed mine that I put in there in March and it still looked like new. I probably only put about 10 tanks of gas through it in that time, but compared to what Ive seen from a friend that uses gear oil, my tranny is in a whole lot better shape than his. Just keep an eye on it, and change it when its needed.

From everything Ive read and people Ive talked to you don't want anything that says energy conserving. I found a good paper about motorcycle oils a while back, i'll see if i can find it. But basically in the whole push to get better gas mileage, the oil companies are making the oils as frictionless as possible, and sacrificing other areas of the oils performance. The EC oil with the friction modifiers will make your clutch slip, and typically they don't have the extreme pressure additives that you want either. Just run ATF type F. Its meant for a transmission and wet clutch, and won't cause any slippage. Walmart has Castrol ATF for $3 a quart. Ive never felt a quad or bike that shifts any smoother than mine, and I've only used ATF since I bought it. I've also heard some good things about Redlines shockproof gear oils, but I haven't tried them yet myself (nobody around here sells it).

Ah yes, those virgin trails are the best, nobody else's tracks have spoiled them yet.

Pretty much!! Just keep riding it till your sore, and you'll build up the muscles. I never even notice it anymore, until I let someone else take it for a ride, and they come back 5 minutes later whining about it. It'll get better though, trust me

Hey, thats a good idea. Oh, by the way, can I borrow about $400? Yeah they're on my wish list, along with about 3 or 4 grand in other stuff. All i need now is a good instant lottery ticket and i'll be set.

To check the pilot just warm it up, throw in a new set of plugs and let it idle for a minute or 2, shut it off and check the plugs. Same thing as normal, just when you would normally hold it wide open to see how the main jet is, leave the throttle closed to check the pilot.

Haha, yeah that happened exactly one week after I got the shee. Me + twist throttle + quad = bad wreck. These are the only 2 other pictures I have. I wish I had got one of the tree, it didn't look to pretty either. That was a couple years ago, its still basically a stock 01 blue shee. Hopefully that will change this fall though.

Novus makes good plastic polishes. They have a 3 different stages, one for heavy scratches, one for light scratches, and the third is a cleaner. Anyways, when I had my warrior, I took the warning labels off with some chemical that ended up stripping the finish off the plastic. I took the middle polish for light scratches and with a drill and buffing wheel, it made those plastics shine like new. If you have deep scratches though, I would use sand paper (increasing in grit as in start with say 100 and work your way up to 1000) to smooth the plastic, then polish it to get a shiny finish. http://www.noscratch.com/novus/

I wouldn't worry about it, turn off the gas when you stop riding. Mines done the same thing since I got it. I've cleaned the carbs, the floats are adjusted perfect, and it still leaks. Ive talked to a couple other people that have the same problems. If anyone knows a surefire solution I'll try it, but Im not losing any sleep over it.

I've known about this place for awhile, but never really came here until just recently. Man have I been missing out. This place has tons of info, and people that actually want to help. I've been on Bluetraxx since its beginning, but I don't really go there too much any more cuz its turned into a bunch of kids whose 450s can't be beat by anything. Anyways, just figured Id say high, and thanks for info i'll be getting from here.