gomerkfx700

How the fuck u get thus thing out to change the bearing

And those pips ant t5s there 3s or 4s still great ideal

Dam it you lucky pricks out west get the sweetest deals that bike would go for 2500-3500 hear easy anyday

Put enough pressure on the 700 itll blow to shit just like the 660's would. Push the stock crank with some good compression cams big bore if your lucky itll just be the bearings more likely itll be rod threw case but it dont happin as often as it did with the 660.

Bidding on a set of fox float 2 now hope to win them will get the arms soon. Do you know of a air pressure to rider weight chart or something like that anywere

Would a 16.5 be to short for the long travel but to long for stock

What length shocks are you guys running on them on the long travel setting thanks

Ive fixed some that was cracked one time like that using a wood burner but it looks like shit when done if nit sanded and painted

I dont think youll have much heating problems as long as you radiator stays clean and is suggest the 13 on the front it will make getting unstuck easier if you can leave it idling in gear while pushing but if your guide is good and rides a sport quad his self youll be set

I have to agree i like the foam better then kandn they do stop up but that just means there catching more just my 2 pennies

Lol busted

I have grew up right hear in the heart of southwest Virginia just about 30 min from hatfield and mccoy trails. the under body skid and axle skid is a must have a arms well thats a toss up they can help but then they get full if mud and they will do that fast then when you get stuck theres that much more weight you have to pickup. Let me give you the best advice anyone will probaby give you. Get some 22s for rear gear it down at least one tooth on front from what you think is good and when your ridding hear and there is a trail around something it is much advised to take it. And please dont craw back in the auger holes around the old coal mines besides the mountain falling in on you coyotes bear and snakes really like to call them home. Hear is what im talking about this is very dangerous http://www.xtrememudmag.com/forums/upload/t3902/

Besides the fact of why would you do that a arm extension thingy in the first place. The big question is why the fuck design them around stock pipes. Ohh and im sure i miss spelled something hear but fuck it im gettin my crayons and coloring books and bustin this shit storm

Ok my buddys banshee is bored to 64.75 has fmfs +4 timing pods on stock carbs and vf4s portwork is not pro work but looks decent also has 18cc domes with 108 fuel. The bike runs nice on top has a really hard hit but from dead stop has no rollon just does not want to come on the pipe and ideling dry reving it just seems like it doesnt want to rev he says when you are goin and it comes on its extream hard hit it actually ran out from under him today when it came on in second very funny phone call. I have not rode it or looked at it just asking for him. He doesnt have an acct. Hear and isnt very familiar with forums. Piolet jet i dont know main is 310 mixture screws 2 turns out. Clip in middle. I think its fat on piolet or air screw but ive not looked at it. But he says plugs look good after a pass just cant get the bottom end lined out What do you guys think

Opps sorry didnt see your post jereme

Your topend (high rpm) tuning is at the base if the porcelain about a mm or 2 thick band it should be tanish in color there is a nice read on hear somewere on plug chops and reading them

i cant tell alot about it by the pics but looks like you have some color down in there may be the shadow looks like some color right around the electrode also like it either hadnt burnt all the idel time off the plug or something. but timing looks good looks like the ring is right around the bend of the strap but im not the best at reading plugs

i was hoping to make it to the ride but keep hitting snags in my build. note to self never build from ground up with a bunch of parts you know nothing about

thanks nightmare i sent him a message theres plenty on ebay but id rather buy from the hq to help someone out then some rattle can ray wannabe

im looking for a j-arm frame with tight ball joints in the front arms that is good and straight with no breaks or welds on it. i would prefer kinda local so i can look at it but i dalt that will happen may settle for a a arm frame but not my first choice.

They work on vacuum the traveling buy the sucks fuel threw them from the float bowls yes its more complicated then that but thats the basic concept

May be because of my phone but cheek out the worst bikes of all time. Is it wrong that ive owned 3 or them lol

yea i know all about a silicosis i work in the mining industry i run a drill rig and a surface blaster probably ate more silica dust than i would care to think about. getting a good setup

just got my parts from rippin66 great parts just like he said they was shipping was fast and communication was great.

ok lets start this by saying i am no body man or have no experiance with sand blasters. first off i bought this sand blaster from tractor supply. http://www.tractorsupply.com/jobsmart-reg-siphon-feed-abrasive-blaster-3907837 this was way to much for my compressor by the time it got to really blowing sand i was out of air. so i went to harbor freight and got this blaster http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html it was some better but was still to much for my compressor. so what i did was go to my dads and get my other small compressor and installed a line with a t fitting between the two compressors. more on this later. with this setup i was able to use the blaster from harbor freight continuously and never drop below 90psi both compressors ran full time but done great the one from tractor supply still used to much air and really wasted to much sand by blowing a wide spray it may be ok if blasting a body pannel on a car but for a frame its to wide of a spray. i tried two different sands a 80 grit and a 40 grit i thought the 40 would do better but it clogs more and bounces back bad and doesnt do as good in the tight corners. the 80 grit will remove a concentrated path about 3/8" wide on tough factory paint. i will try 60 grit when i get to go buy some. for those curious on my compressors one is a 12 gal. craftsman with a 1.8hp motor http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-12-gallon-portable-vertical-air-compressor-with/p-00916640000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3 the other is a off brand 2 hp 4 gallon similar to this http://www.ebay.com/itm/AIR-COMPRESSOR-4-GALLON-TWIN-TANK-2-HP-MOTOR-WEN-/130547160413 actually the off brand would run the baster alot better the craftsman but it is rated more cfm witch it should. now how i tied the compressors together was i bought 2 short lines 2 foot each with male ends bout a 3 way t fetting with 2 females and 1 male fittings on it. i put a coupler on the male end of the t and the lines on the female ends with 1/4 in male couplers on the other ends of the lines to connect to the compressors and just hooked my airline to the female coupler on the t. one idem i would highly recommend is the sand blasting full hood which i will have before doing anymore blasting you will have sand in your eyes ears noise and anyother orfice exposed and its ruff on your lungs but i had to try it. for the person who gets enjoyment out of doing as much of your own work on your bike as you can get the harbor freight blaster and have a great time but it isn't really cost effective for what i have in the blaster lines and sand i could have had someone do it for me but i like to do stuff myself.