TT2

You obviously had better luck than I did. When I first installed it, I tightened it as hard as their crappy wrench would allow. It backed off after 3 rides (woods, dirt dragging). One of my riding buddys' GForce axles did the same exact thing. That's why I'm saying that you can't go wrong using threadlock. If you have difficulty in removing the nut later, a little heat from a torch will make the threadlock let go. Simple, and just a little added insurance.

OK, you can put threadlock on it the SECOND time you tighten it then. Been there, done that.

Use a gigantic adjustable wrench for the locknut. Borrow one if you have to. I bought their 'axle nut wrench' and it was a stamped P.O.S. Use blue threadlock all over the threads and tighten the bejeezus out of it. Use blue (or red if you dare) threadlock on the nut's pinch bolt. I did this and mine has stayed tight for over a year.

6/22/06: I spoke with Sebastian at Elka today. They are in the process of designing a true, long travel linkage / shock combo for the Banshee (finally)...and I'm going to be among the first to have one so EAT YOUR HEARTS OUT! The system should be ready toward the end of July 2006 so start saving your pennies...you'll need about 100,000 of them. This setup will give 12" of rear wheel travel (over the stock 8.7") with a stock length swingarm. I'm using an Eyeball +2 so I'll be getting about 13.375" according to my calcs. I can't wait. With 12" travel in the front and over 13" in the rear...well...I just can't wait to hammer the rough shit with it. Over and out, -Tom

<<Any way to just get the bracket without the UNI filters?>> Currently they are sold as a complete set...tubes, filters, bracket, hardware. <<how do those tubes hold up too rock hits from the sides?>> Rock impacts won't be any problem. The tubes are much stronger than they really need to be...matter of fact I have STOOD on one (as a demonstration) and I weigh about 170 lbs. <<How does this give you more air than just clamping filters to your carbs?>> The main advantage over using 'pod' filters clamped to the carbs is that the weight of the carbs and filters is being carried by the bracket...not just by the intake boots. Also, the length of the velocity tubes forces the airflow to be more linear when passing through the carbs. Another advantage is that it increases the length of the intake tract by almost 12" (to the backside of the filters). To understand why this is beneficial, CLICK HERE to go to the FAQ on Toomey Racing's website. Near the bottom of the page there is an explaination after "Q. Why is there a "Rich Spot" from 4000 to 5000 RPM, and how do I get rid of it?"

Here's the prototype installed using stock carbs / boots: (click on pic for full size) Simply loosen ONE boot screw and slide the tube rearward for instant carb access. The bracket is carbon fiber so it's stiff enough to hold the tube in place firmly yet is springy enough to allow it to slide. The bracket's interior is lined with a low friction plastic so the tubes will not get scratched up. The bracket keeps the filters / tubes / carbs from bouncing up and down which will eventually crack your expensive intake boots. (click on pic for full size) Note that the finish quality of the prototype is not nearly as nice as the production versions. Ever wonder why the chassis of F1 and Indy cars are almost entirely made of carbon fiber? You will understand when you get your hands on these parts...

I didn't know whether or not it was OK to post this here, so here goes.... If you want to get more air to your engine SAFELY then you need to check these out: (click on picture for details)