oliver566

thanks, only problem is that mine looks like this what in gods name is supposed to go over the c-clip??? Yours looks right, mine dont... lol, so therefore, what is over your clip, how come mine is right out in the open like it is? Is that little spacer about 1/4 of an inch long over the clip or is it the threaded piece of the locknut?

How high can you safely bore a stock cylinder without having to resleve or buy a new head or something of the such. At the maximun bore, what displacement would the bike be?

My compression test was done very near sea level. Next to 0 elevation. Would this make a considerable difference in the compression reading? Also, when I replace the top end, would it be a good idea to bore the cylinders, or is it ok to leave everything as is and just get the stock size?

No, I can safely say that I won't be using nitrous or anything like that. But if I get say the wiseco pistons, but don't rebore the cylinders, just leave it stock, is it possible that my cylinders might already be worn and the new top end might not have the same compression as it should? Should you always rebore when replacing the top end?

Yes I do, I believe. You can just barely see the spacer in the pic inside the locknut behind the c-clip. Is that where it is supposed to be? It would be a great help if someone would post a pic of how they have it done just for reference purposes. thanks.

About how much horsepower would you think would my shee be putting out? Taking into consideration the PC pipes/r204 silencers, dynojet race jet kit, uni filter, boost bottle. How much more would a lightened flywheel and advanced ignition make?

I totally understand what your saying there, that actually what I was figuring. But the problem with that for me is that I DO have the hollowed out end of the spacer facing the c-clip and that axle nut is tightened like something crazy, but the spacer will NOT go over the clip. Its very agrivating because it looks like it should and it probably should, but theres no way it will for me. Its probably like 1/16th of an inch smaller than the clip and no matter how hard I tighten it, it will not go on right. Think that maybe they sent me the right axle and hardwear but maybe a wrong spacer meant for another bike possibly?

I'm thinking about doing a top end rebuild... my compression is about 105 or so give or take a little and it is probably a good idea to do this as a project over the winter. I'm exploring my options, but would like to know who makes the best top ends? By this I mean in terms or durability, reliability, power output, and so on. And well over the stock setup, what kind of a difference would this make? would it even be noticable? -ryan

Before I just went out on it, I took your advice, but it is still a little plush for my liking. It seems without stiffer shocks I might do some major damage if I try anything crazy, so best I do that... thanks for the help though anyways.

I checked earlier and nothing about the frame or a-arms looked different than that on the other side which is completely straight. Also, there is no free play in the wheel or anything, it feels solid in place and doesn't make any noise which makes me think that it is not the bearings. But, when it is driven, there is a slight wobble, barely noticable but still there, in this wheel. Maybe that will help in the diagnosis of this problem.

Ok, I'm still confused about this. Should I put the spacer on the other side of the threaded part under the actual nut itself? This way, when I tightened the nut, wouldn't it just come right out over the clip or is there something stopping it? The directions for this thing were completely rediculous, they were like 2 lines long with nothing telling you what was what...

Thanks, as soon as I saw that just a couple of minutes ago I went out and tore it down to check it out, everything looks good... the season for me will be cut short though as it is. I only have about 2 weeks before I have to move away to go back to university, so I think I am set for the rest of the season.

Heres a pic to help illustrate what it is that I'm talking about, and I'll be sure to check in by where the top a-arm joins, thanks.

thanks, I'll look into it! how much of a power difference would be noticable with this mod?

I'll try to post a pic to show you now, and tell me if its on wrong please

Hey I see many of you have the ignition advanced on your shee's. From being a sportbike rider for many years I know you only have to buy a simple metal piece and an easy install to advance the ignition on a sportbike. Is it the same for the shee? just buy and install a product and there, my ignition is advanced? if so, where could I get this? if not, what do I do? thanks.

Hey I have the G-Force as well, but on mine, the c-clip on the sprocket hub side always backs off allowing the 3 piece locknut to move. Could you post some detailed pics showing how this setup is supposed to go together because by the sounds of it I have something incorrectly installed.

I have an 02 shee and am wondering how I should setup my suspension. I find it somewhat mushy and too soft for jumping, would playing with the compression and rebound on the stock suspension help to relieve this or should I go all out and buy some new shocks?

I have an 02 banshee and am wondering, how does a procircuit platinum pipes/r304 silcer combo compare to the other exhaust I've been hearing so much about, mainly the toomey t-5s and t-6s and shit like that? with mods such as pc pipes/silencers, dynojet race jetkit, boost bottle, uni filter, what should I be putting out in the line of horsepower? much more than stock? could this be improved with a different exhuast/jetting setup?

I have a problem, I installed one of those race intended jet kits on my 02 banshee but the performance doesn't really seem to have increased. Actually, off the line,like in the low rpms in first or second, the bike terribly bogs down but soon pulls out of this and rips up through the rest of the band. Is this normal for this type or jet kit? Or might I want to try a larger pilot or main to straighten it out?

Just out of curiousity I will post this, not much money on my hands, so I want the best bang for my buck

Yes the g-force axle is a cheap alternative to the other axles on the market. You can use your stock brake and sprocket hubs and the three piece locknut comes with it. Nothing to worry about, 10 minutes of installation and your back in business, screaming the rubber off your tires.

As in one of my last posts, I had to get another axle due to my wheelieing whoes. And at the same time I got a tilt in my left front wheel. I had to replace the rim because it was warped into a dorito. But I still have a tilt in the wheel, just slightly off centre. What could cause this? Could it be a bent spindle or a-arm? it is barely noticable and can not be noticed in driving, so is it ok to forget about it for a while? lol

I recently got my compression checked on my shee and it registered at about 105/110 on both cylinders. I'm after hearing that proper compression should be about 120-135. Is it time for a rebuild for my bike? or is it safe to run it for another couple months until more funds are coming in? I havent had any problems thus far....

Hey I'm a new user to the forum, only bought my 02 shee a couple weeks ago. It rips, enough for me to overcook a wheelie on the top in 4th. Anyway, a lot of stressing and 200 USD later, I have a G-Force axle from rmatv. Problem is that the c-clip on the sprocket hub side doesn't seem to properely fit into place and backs off sometimes allowing movement of the 3 piece locknet thing. I know some people on this forum have this axle so could you give me a breakdown of how this clip is supposed to stay in place. I probably have something put on backwards or something knowing my mechanical skills. Could someone post a pic or something of the locknut and how it all goes together please or email me one at [email protected] any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.