409Banshee

Does anyone use needle bearings or some type of bearings for their A Arms where they bolt on to the frame? When I took mine off, it was just a bolt holding it on, no sleeve or bearings present. (now I know why I had so much play in them... bought machine used... Denton +3+1)

Cool. Thanks!

It doesn't show the depth real well, but it's enough to where I fit tested the arm with all new stuff and there is play there that wasn't there before. The arrows point to where that one area should be for thickness.

I didn't cut through the frame, I ended up shaving about a bladewidth off the frame. Can I take a patch plate and weld it in there without doing any damage?

Anyone got an idea on what carb size I may have? They are Mikuni. What do I measure to find out what I got?

PM sent!

Ain't worth too much now anymore. I've beaten on this thing so bad that I have dented the frame in a few spots. I thought about getting a new or used swinger, but at this point, it's gonna be worth it.

Fast: I've sprayed 1 can of WD, 1 can of PB Blaster and some stuff called Croil into this thing and it ain't working! I'll have to hijack some diesel from the shop. Doesn't hurt to try at this point. Been working on this for almost 2 weeks! Milo: You may be my savior! I forgot about that handy little tool. Will have to try that. Is it possible that something in there is bent just enough not to let that bolt out? Just my 2 cents, cuz who's to say that this wasn't crashed hard, fixed and put back together just to make a few $$$.

As the title says. Boy am I pissed, but I guess this can be expected from a used machine. I took it apart, only to find this: all kinds of mismatched bolts, some are missing and the ones in place are not the right ones, engine is not what the seller said it was (it is a big bore, no stroker crank) carbs are ???? cuz I ordered a new cable from Rocky Mountain for stock carbs without TORS and it doesn't fit. The swingarm I believe is toast because I had to cut off the bolt from the insides of the frame on both sides, but now that piece that is still in the arm is stuck and will not come out. I heated up with MAPP gas and it did nada,and I don't want to break out the oxy acetylene torch cuz that will melt the swingarm. Anyone got an idea on how to attempt to try to get this bolt out? I have hammered away on this to no avail and I'm on my last nerve with this thing.

I just opened my new Motion Pro cable only to find on the end where it screws into the top of the carbs is bigger than what it is now. Did I order the wrong cable? I do not believe the machine has TORS. Also wondering if it's possible to drill out the tops to make them fit and how the hell does the old cable come out from the slides?

Stock swinger, revalved rear. I adjusted it for what is was worth, went back out after I had posted, now the shock is pretty much blowing right through its stroke and this time I noticed some oil coming out from the seal where the shaft goes into the shock body. I guess it is time for a new shock.

I've noticed the last 2 times out, it seems like shee won't track straight in the whoops. I don't notice any bent wheels or axle and the tire pressures are the same. Could it be time for a new shock?

Compared to my buddy's stocker with FMF Gnarlys, I don't think do. He'll beat me in tight trails woods riding anyday of the second, minute, hour and day of the week for the rest of the year. It just isn't there at low rpms, but after we are out in the open places, he's smoked. After I had the clutch and a shift fork in it fixed, a few friends that race took it out for a spin on practice day (all 4 stroke boys), and they were impressed with its hi rpm pull and mid to high roll on power, and they said they wouldn't be shocked if it had some cylinder magic somewhere for the mid to hi rpm.

Now that I finally got my fuel right, it now has a bad breakup in 1st and 2nd in the mid to high rpms. You can take off in 1st, hold it at just above idle, then go wide open, then it breaks up. 2nd just about the same, but it's not as bad in the high r's. When I get to 3rd and higher gears in all rpms it's fine. Jets are unknown to me (yeah I know, shoot me for not doing my own jetting, but I blow shit up when I do) but my friend that does the work does so he'd know. (He writes things down) Where do I investigate from here?

I do and I like its mid and top end power. I spend most of my ride time in the mid to upper rpms. Has ZERO low end. Plan on getting beat off the line in a drag race. Throttle response sucks compared to a stock motor with pipes. I wouldn't recommend it for any type of woods riding. My buddy's stock motor with FMF Gnarlys smokes my ass in the woods. The powerband is narrow and when it's on, it's on and when you fall out of the power, plan on clutching it hard to get her back in the power or downshifting. I feel it's better on open areas such as gravel pits, fireroads or anywhere where the higher rpms can be reached. As far as reliability, I bought my machine used with the kit already installed. It was installed last year and still has the original pistons that came with the kit. I have had no major engine issues. I've owned it since June 1, and probably have about 15-20 tankfuls run in it, with the majority of the time seeing high rpms. Only problem I had was overheating, which I fixed with a billet impeller and Fluidyne radiator. I may end up selling the cylinders during the winter to make an all out MX motor that I can run in the ATVA Production B and C class. The 404 and crank, in my opinion, is not a MX motor.

Don't know. I bought it in Ohio then took it to a shop here and they did it. I forgot to ask them, and by now they won't remember, but I'm pulling the carbs off tomorrow, I'll know everything then. Oh yeah, plugs are NGK B8ES.

Did you see the "slicks" out back as well?

I see alot of people with them here. What's the info on them? Why are they a very popular choice? Who makes reputable ones, since it seems to be many shops that have them.

Klotz Red synthetic Super X2. I was also told that I needed the C12 for bumped timing, I guess that ain't true. Oh yeah, I looked at the plugs after today's ride. Looks like the right cyl is a little leaner than the left, both are on the edge of lean I think (starting to show white on the porcelain, but the little metal thing and and where the spark comes from is a light tan brown ). If I just went up one on the mains and adjusted accordingly, should I be fine? This may also explain why I've been overheating lately. Went through 2 bottles of Engine Ice in 3 weeks!! Radiator is full, just keep having to add in the overflow.

Stock head, possibly ported.

Well, just did a test and she reads 125-130 both cylinders. I am currently running VPC12 and 93 mix at 32:1. Can I run regular pump gas with the jetting as current for the octane mix, or is something bad gonna happen?

I'm looking for a set of ITP T9 Pro beadlocks with Razr 2 rears. Everywhere I look, it's nothing but Douglas Shamrocks with Razr 2 tires. Where do you all get your wheels/tires from?

Sure as hell, chain is too tight. What's the procedure on the chain adjusters? (Sorry, I'm a rookie)

I'll look into that. I haven't done any chain adjustment since the old one was off or the new one on, but it makes sense.

It's the lower. I have the stock pieces, not the UPP stuff.