edbooo

forecast for the halloween weekend should be in the mid 80's high. me and my group of friends (about 15) go every year. we'll be out there from thurs night through sunday 10/30-11/2. i on the other hand will be there till 11/5 so if anybody wants to meet up let me know. ill post up info on where im staying as the dates get closer. just got the bike redone into a 4mill cub by hjr so i cant wait to ride. im not too hard to miss with the oversized clear tank. havent seen one like mine yet. will be hanging out mostly at olds.

i drop a bit of grape under my car seat as a air freshner. those little tree air freshners can kiss my ass!!! :biggrin:

Awesome... thanks for the replies. it was only recently that i switched to R50 but all of a sudden i cant find it anymore. ive always run klotz and always will. i love that smell mixed with cotton candy in my fuel lol. hey btw team i just got my baby turned into a 4mil cub by kevin, ill post up some pics tommorow in the pic section. this thing rips!!!

i believe they are 1 1/8 where they clamp on to the stem and 7/8 at the horns. you wont regret having them it makes it so much easier on the arms. :thumbsup:

i went to the stealership the other day to buy some more R50 klotz oil. couldnt find any so i ended up buying some supertechniplate. i know R50 is full synthetic and supertech is 20% caster. so my question is... will i have some issues if i use supertechniplate or should i go back to R50? Also i heard that once you go full synthetic you cant go back. Dont remember where i heard it but it stuck im my head for some reason.

i have them and they help with choppy sand. they have different cushion inserts to set how much you want the bars to flex. i agree they are pricey but at the time i had the money to spend so i said why not :yelrotflmao:

try this is you still want some filtered gas. http://67.199.65.66/cascade_innovations/ne...p;search=filter i got em on two fuel jugs and have been great. they filter out all the crap at the bottom of the fuel jugs so it wont enter your gas tank.

i had a rs stator go bad on me once... it was when i first got the bike. was at glamis at night with new trailtechs and all of sudden i get no power and jolting like crazy with the lights dimming. luckily my buddy's 4 poke tractor'ed me back to camp. i got a replacement and it seems to be running okay. But what ill do is dig up my oem in a box somewhere in my garage and put it back on before i get my cub built. there is no way in hell im taking a risk like that after i dump some more money into the shee.

I just recently put my stock lights back on after a new wiring harness was installed and im thinking about buying some better bulbs for them. ive been looking at the H6m super bright from ricky stator and the H6m from the Piaa website. Both look the same but is there a difference? Is one better than the other or are they exactly the same? Ricky stator's are 9 bucks a piece and Piaa's are about 30 bucks. Will these bulbs work in high/lo just like the stockers or only one setting like the trail techs? whats your input fellas.

xbox 360: cod4, gta4 its sweeptheleg5.

we're do you get a degree wheel at? ill go buy one. my first trip to glamis was in the middle of june for a night ride . we got there about 2 hours before sunrise and it was 98 degrees lol. we rode into daylight and found our selves in the middle of the dunes lost. one of us ran outa gas and i had enough sense of direction to get us back on the highway on my reserve. ever since then i always carry some gas on my 6 pack rack and got a bigger tank. that was my first ride on my banshee and the first time at glamis....ever since then ive been hooked lol :thumbsup:

i totally agree with you, at this point im slamming my head in between a door because ive been a member of this site for couple of years but only now asking questions which i should have been doing before i got the bike worked on. shoot i coulda had a mean ass dune port from hjr right now. ill call him tommorow and ask about this and maybe its fixable. if not im headed the 4mill with cpi's road this coming season anyways. ill just fork out some change for a cub. and slo thanks for the reply, i also think im a little over paddled.

the tab as shown in these pics measure exactly 2 inches from each hole. im not sure if this is what your looking for but hope it helps....

he has sandstars for paddles, we are both at stock gearing, and his bike was tuned by me. he has my old setup wich ran tits before i did the port and the rest of the mods you see in my sig. we are the same height, weight and look almost like twins..we are cousins. im currently having issues with my electrical as well but im not sure if that could play a part in performance. my jetting at moment is 160 mains and 35(not sure if thats stock) pilots on 33pwk's.

do i have to take apart the jugs to do this? sorry im a noob

im not sure if you can tell but does this look like a decent port to you? reason i ask is cause im not feeling the power going up the hills at glamis. my cousin who has only fmf pipes, pods and reeds can take me from launch and stay with me in top end. now with my mods im assuming i should pull away easily on top end yet we're neck and neck. ive come to the conclusion that it may be be the port. the shop i took it to is not banshee specific. here are the pics..

whethere its approved or not you have your first customer. its one thing to read how to do it, its another to watch how to do it. im sure visual noobs like me will benefit alot from this video. :thumbsup:

believe it or not i wrapped it with tape as a quick fix at the dunes but eventually the bike would charge so much id get zapped on my clutch lever. rear brake ftw

thanks snop, indeed one bolt was missing so i put a new one with some loctite. ill go for a run on it and hopefully i wont get shocked again.

im getting shocked by my front hand brake as i got up sand hills at full throttle. this started happening after i had the bike wired back to ac after too many dc issues. i took it back once to the builder but he claimed my fancy handlebars needed more grounding... obviously that wasnt it. after further inspection i found my dyna ignition replaced with a stock one(sigh).

my question is would the voltage regulator not attached securely to the frame cause a grounding issue? i have an earlier post about getting zapped while in high rpm's but now im trying to fix this. i bought a multimeter to figure out how much ac voltage the frame is producing and when i rev the bike the multimeter reads .100 and above. i secured the voltage regulator and the multimeter does not pass .007, any help would be great.

ive been getting zapped from my bike at high rpms going up hills. i get a strong shock through my glove on my right hand every time i touch the front brake lever. this only happens when im racing up a hill. now that the season is over (glamis), i want to figure out whats causing this. the only possible cause i can think of is at the beginning of the glamis season i had my bike rewired to run dc current so i can run 4 lights. after the 200w ricky stator took a crap down i was fed up and asked the shop to wire it back to ac. soon after i was starting to get zapped to a point it wasnt fun duning anymore. now i was looking at cascade's website and they sell a harness for about 100 bucks. i was thinking of just buying it and see how it goes. do you guys have a easier solution? i appreciate the help.

im been messing around with my 33pwk's lately and it seems when i go up big hills at glamis my top end seems to run a bit lean. i dont know exactly what main to run as far as jetting but i have 158 mains right now. also on that same note when you guys talk about turning the air screw does that mean a 180 degree turn or a 360 turn? i appreciate the help