blueshee

Sold the banshee and have these parts laying arround. Graydon Proline 2ito1 intake with airbox and 35mm pwk in excellent condition. also k&n filter that i ran. (I did not use the airbox on my bike. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Graydon-Proline-2into1-intake-35pwk-k-n-uni-banshee-/150658888814?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2313f8346e Toomey Hush kit spark arrestor in great shape. I only used it for maybe 3 rides. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toomey-Racing-Hush-kit-Spart-arrestor-banshee-/150658890444?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2313f83acc

A friend of a friend did the port job. He actually did very good. my bike ran very good before I put the single carb on. the 50 hp was with the single carb. It was way faster before. I think Ill buy another 35 pwk and run two.

So, I installed the timing plate at +4 and it made a world of difference. Then I put the graydon 2 into one with a 35mm pwk and it runs like ass. I figured the dyno would get it figured out but here at gordons wells its running like ass. it seems to me like it is rich, but I pulled the plugs which were a nice chocolate brown before, and now half of the porcelin is chocolate brown and the other half is white-ish, yellow. this is with 210 main, 50 pilot, dek needle at middle clip, 1.50 out on air screw. with the stock carbs the bilke ran like a raped ape, now after putting the single carb on, it runs like it did before it was ported. front wheels dont even come up. please help cause im getting beat by 450s that I used to smoke. Sorry if i dont make much sence but I have a few beers in me. by the way, I already tried a 200 main and It doesnt seem much diiferent

well i took it to the dyno yesterday. Mods are whatever is in my sig and +4 timing, graydon intake with 1 35mm pwk. ended up with 49.15 HP and 30 ft. lbs. torque. I took the bike in jetted at 200 main, 50 pilot, dek needle at middle clip, 2 turns out on air screw. He ended up putting a 210 main and left the rest the same. It seems to me, it was snappier before with the stock carbs but I guess ill find out for sure this weekend at the dunes. Im leaving here in a few hours. Ill post up when I get back

Do the garbage can thing or use your bathtub. It could possibly be leaking at the rim where it is welded together. I have one that is leaking from the weld that I need to fix

BTW.. Are you the one that won the Graydon intake with aluminum airbox and uni-filters? If so good deal! thats me. how much did these go for new

I won an ebay auction on a graydon intake setup and am now looking for a carb for it. I found a 38mm lectron on ebay and am wondering if it is too big for my setup. Also are there any jets to change on lectrons or is it completely externally adjustable? If I dont get this Ill probably just order a brand new 35 pwk. I just need some quick answers in order to make a decision. Thanks in advance.

so i decided to do a carb swap before paying to get it dyno-tuned. I found a graydon manifold, airbox, and two uni filters on ebay and won the auction since im kind of on a budget, i figured one carb will be cheaper than two. So now I need to get a carb and am wondering what size would go good with my setup. If the 2into1 guys could give me some advice I would appreciate it. Also I was wondering if I need a high flow fuel valve since one carb will be doing the job of two. thanks in advance

anyone know what bikes had pwk 33s stock. by chance, is a 95 cr 125 carb one thanks in advance

So Im thinking ill try to get a set of pwk carbs sooner than later. Anyone know where I can get a good deal on them. I suppose I also need to get new intakes and pods. Do I need a new throttle cable. If anyone has a set of used 33mm pwks that you want to get rid of let me know.

Thanks for the input guys. Carbs are definitely next on the list. Dave, so are you saying more timing will give me more power, but less reliable. I mostly dune the thing with a little hill shooting now and then. I deffinitely want it to be reliable. Do you think +7 is reliable, or should i go +6 to be that much safer

Dune season is almost here, so I wanted to do a little more to my shee before the first trip. I ordered a timing plate and it should be here in a couple days. I am wondering where I should set it to for my setup. I will also, hopefully find the time to go get it dyno tuned before the trip, So If you guys would like to guess my horsepower, Ill post up with the results. Here is my mods list. .040" bore .030" milled off the head (175 psi compression) aggressive dune port stock carbs with k@n pods vforce 3 reeds toomey t-5 running 50/50 110 race gas and 91 pump timing plate will go on this weekend (suggestions on how much timing?) thanks in advance for any suggestions

If you have fiberglass, yes you will clear 33s.

"So i don't know what you mean by this thing being good for just gettin' "the look." I didnt say just the look. Sure you can still wheel it, but this kit is just stock suspension modified so that you can get it aligned with a taller coil. Im not saying its a bad kit, as I said i had it on my 92 and now im going to use it again on my 97. Im just saying it is no where near a true performance set up like custom egual length i-beams and radius arms with coilovers, which will cost a lot more. By the way this is pretty much the same thing as the camburg entry level kit, except camburg uses custom radius arms instead of modifying the stock ones. Camburg also uses eibach springs where autfab uses generic coil.

alright, thanks for all your help. I'll be running the 101 out of the pump.

Well my bike is up and running now I just got back from riding and im really happy with it. I rebuilt the top end w/65mm wisecos, milled the head .030 and had my cylinders ported (dune/drag port) I ended up at 160 psi compression so I guess I need to run race gas. For today I picked up some VP 101 octane unleaded fuel that I can get from the pump at a local gas station. Should I run this straight, mix it 50/50 or get higher octane fuel and mix it. Also should I get leaded or unleaded.

I got the engine together last night but it was too late to rip it around the street. So when I got home tonite I ripped it around the block. I am very happy with it, the thing scoots. I ended up at dead nuts 160 psi on a snap-on guage, so I guess ill have to mix with race gas? after ripping it around a bit I pulled the plugs, they started to whiten. I have 350 mains in there now and 30 pilots, air screw 1 turn out. Any suggestions on what I should jump the jets up to? I am at 1000 above sea level. Most the riding I do is at Glamis and Gordons Wells. Also The left pipe is getting hotter than the right when I fire it up and idle/rev it while sitting. But after ripping it around I cant tell because their both really f-ing hot. Any Ideas? Oh yeah, I just went from uni/airbox to k&n pods so add that to the list of my mods.

I just picked one up today at a local vw/buggy shop. looks just like the one on fast website. It works great.

why would you guys like the wet kit rather than the dry kit seams to me the dry kit would be more reliable due to not as much horse power shot but hey any ideas or explantions im all ears to any suggestions. When you spray nitrous in your engine it creates a lot of heat. Adding gas to it cools it down. The dry kit just shoots nitrous w'out adding fuel and you can melt your engine. :: The wet kit on the other hand shoots nitrous along with gas to cool it down.

Thank you all for your input. I just got my cylinders back last night and the port job looks bitchen. My pistons arrived today so ill pick them up tomorrow. Hopefully Ill get it all put back together tomorrow night so I can check what my compression ends up at. And this weekend go break her in. :biggrin: I hope it rips, I think I should notice a difference since before this the motor was stock other than pipes, filter and vforce. Ill be sure to post the outcome

I just had my head milled .030" and am wondering what size that puts my combustion chambers at. Also my cylinders are out being ported, so I was wondering if Im going to need to run race fuel or a mix. If I can get some opinions, It would be appreciated. Here is a rundown on what the bike will have done. 65mm pistons, .030 off the head, full port job, t-5s, vforce 3s. Im also thinking of advancing the timing, but if that is the deciding factor btwn pump and race gas, ill leave it alone. Thanks for any help

In mm my bore is 65 mm, pistons 64.8. Im guessing this size piston is advertized as 65?. I guess Il just order 65mm pistons and hone the cylinders and call it good. What do you all say about vertex pistons, are they any good? Or should i just stick with wiseco. Thanks for any replys and suggestions