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Rooster

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Everything posted by Rooster

  1. Ruger P89 9mm Ruger 10/22 Rifle - Stainless Ruger MK II 22 caliber auto Russian SKS 7.62 with all the goodies (+ 20 & 30 round clips) Mossburg Maveric 12 gauge 18.5" (composite pistolgrip w/stock) Raven Arms .25 ACP CZ 9 mm auto (antique) Rooster Fast cars, fast bikes, and guns..........................I LOVE AMERICA
  2. Whittier, California. Four hours from Glamis or Pismo Beach (but why bother), two from the mountains, and 30 minutes from Huntington Beach (hey, no riding there but what the hell, it's the beach). Southern California sucks, right? Rooster
  3. Isn't anybody gonna mention "Stickers"? Rooster
  4. I'm running the Trinity and like just fine. I'm wondering about the comment "I try to stay away from Trinity whenever possible". What's up with that? I don't normally buy from them these days but I do have a connection that's close to them. Rooster
  5. Rooster
  6. ssanddemon, What I understood when he said "owners manual" was the little yellow folder that comes with the bike. I agree with the comments on the Clymers manuals, that's what he needs, if not the Yamaha Shop manual itsef since that's where Clymers gets their info in the first place. Probably cheaper too. Sorry, maybe I wasn't clear enough. Rooster
  7. Remember, if you're replacing the front sprocket you should replace the rear one too, and the chain. If you just replace one item you stand a big chance of snapping the chain, and that's not a good thing, trust me. Rooster
  8. For a lot less money than a new head you can have your stock head milled and re-chambered. I had CT Racing do that years ago and it made a huge difference - not as much as the porting will do, but a good inexpensive mod none-the-less. I think I paid something like $80 back then, but I would imagine its not much more now. Rooster
  9. If you've removed the wiring harness I wouldn't be concerned with the lights since the motor won't be working either. What are you trying to do, save weight? Rooster
  10. The owners manual isn't what you need, it doesn't get into that much detail. If you're looking for tire pressures on stockers or jetting help maybe, but nothing like rebuild info. What you need is a Yamaha shop manual. Try something like eBay or the dealer if you don't see one in there. Expect to pay at least $20-30 for one. Rooster
  11. You might want to use an air impact wrench, that's the only way I can get mine tight and lined up with the cotter pin holes. Other wise you'll be busting your knuckles with a breaker bar. Rooster
  12. I've been running a Yamaha TZ clutch in my bike for at least ten years without a failure. My motor is putting out about 70-75 HP and I dump from full throttle in second gear a LOT at the sand drags with paddles. Never slips. Rooster
  13. The two cars he's asking about are four door sedans, not two door coupes so I doubt the 'vette is even an option. If you want nothing but pure speed, get the Dodge. But when you're sitting in the dealer's waiting room for the twenteeth time while its getting something repaired remember what I'm saying. Like I said before, just look at Consumer Reports and let the "people" give the right advise. That LS 430 is the BOMB! If I was in the market for a luxery sedan there would be no shopping around. Rooster PS: As for Ford screawing up the Jag.....those cars have always been a piece of shit. I'm more pissed that Ford bought them in the first place. With the Ford patform at least you can drive one to the grocery store without worring about getting home.
  14. Dodge vs. Lexus? You gotta be kidding me. That's like Read Consumer Reports and you'll never look at that Dodge again. All three of the new Dodges (Magnum, Charger and 300) got bad reviews. Sorry, but there is NO comparision between the two. The Lexus is far from a "fancy Toyota", but even a mid level Toyota is better than those Dodges as far as quality goes. Wanta go faster, then get the Lexus and tweek it some. The LS430 is considered the luxery car that they measure all other luxery cars against. Blows away Mercedes Benz as far as quality, performance and reliabulity goes. Rooster
  15. Sorry, but I have to laugh at this post. Why would it matter if the paddles aren't lined up together? Both tires are still turning at the same speed regardless if they're lined up. Think about it. So what if two paddles don't hit the ground at the exact same instant. By the time one leaves the ground the next one makes contact. I once had a friend - who will remain nameless - say that his bike turns to the right if they aren't lined up together. LAME! Rooster
  16. I'd buy another one. I've had mine since '91. It was a brand new '89 on the lot (they had '89, '90 & '91's available). The motor has only needed to be rebuilt twice since new - and yes, it does get riden and hard. However, 99% of my riding these days is in the Glamis dunes so it is seasonal and only about 5 to 6 trips a year since about '93 or so when I started playing with the motor. It is VERY reliable and only once left me stranded once and that was an electrical problem that I figured out later. GREAT bikes and huge bang for the buck! Rooster
  17. You guys are killing me. Rooster
  18. If you've got a metal to metal sound coming from the trans you're just hiding the problem if you're going to change oils until it goes away. Have it looked at ASAP. Wouldn't you rather spend a few bucks getting it fixed now before it grenades your engine case and/or transmission gears? This isn't the time to get cheap. Rooster
  19. Try messing with all the connections. My coil wires came loose once and did the same thing. It could be nothing more than that. Rooster
  20. About the comment "Dude he's right I run the Trinity Stage IV intake. Duh that means it's the Stage 1 V engine". I hope you're kidding. If not let me give you a quick lession on some of the Roman numerals. I = one V = Five X = Ten When a lower value preceeds a higher value you subtract, when it is afterwards you add it to the former. Stage IV = Stage 4 If you comment was just a joke, I'm sorry I guess I didn't get it.............. Never mind. Rooster
  21. Damm, can you all feel the love in here? Rooster
  22. I'm running the single carb set-up too and like it a lot. 99% of my riding is at Glamis and it seems to work really good for me, whether drag racing or duning. I went with the larger carb option (based on my engine builders suggestion). He is a mechanic at Trinity (who was self employed at the time) and really likes this set-up. Plus, it really cleans up things too. Rooster
  23. Yup, and divorce court too 'cause I'm sure the wife wouldn't appreciate her as much as I would!
  24. You may have a bent tie rod and/or upper J arm (if your bike has J arms and not A arms). I had the same problem and it was nearly impossible to see where the J arm was bent. New J arm, problem fixed. Also, the tie rod once did the same thing but it was easier to find because all I had to do was remove it and roll it across a flat surface to see the bend. Rooster
  25. I was thinking the same thing. I don't mean to be knocking anybody, but I'd probably focus on my riding skills before I went out and spent a ton-o-cash on a hot rod Banshee. Seriously, you might want to hook up with someone that does a fair amount of hill racing and drags and hone some launching techniques. It will really make a difference when counts. Once you've got it down then go out and build the dream bike. I don't want to sound like I'm bragging but I've smoked a few "race" bikes (you know the type, drag pipes, nitrous bottle hanging off the rear, etc) just because the rider didn't have a clue how to handle the bike. Given the right person behind the bars and I would have looked stupid eating his sand up the hill. Rooster
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