80overShee
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Posts posted by 80overShee
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I had a big long story typed up but somehow it got deleted. I'll give a recap of the end, it was too long to retype
"You don't think the farmer that grows those soy beans and corn lets your 'beautiful creatures' share it do you? No, he drives around in his truck and on his combine with a shotgun or rifle and a full box of shells and kills everything that moves. Now you tell me the difference between me killing a deer and eating every part of meat on it and you eating soy beans and corn that a farmer killed dozens of deer and probably hundreds of racoons, possums and skunks to grow. I had one farmer that let me hunt his property pay me $5 a piece for every woodchuck (ground hog) that I killed"
The girl looked at me like I was Satan
If a few mice have to die so we can cure cancer.....go for it!
*recalls shooting 2 racoons this morning for destroying my garden (up to 61 now)*
I will say I am not a big fan of people wearing fur though, if you actually see how its done, you'd probably agree. Ever seen a fox trying to stand, half live, but has already been skinned? They boil them alive. Its definitely sick, I'll never forget it.
Other than that........F*** PETA
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Might have locked up the kicker gear or idler gear. The kicker should atleast move 1/4 turn even if the crank is locked up. If you pull the plugs and try to roll it while in gear, will the bike move and/or engine rotate? If so, its probably not a piston/rod/crank/bearing. Pull your clutch cover off and see if maybe you broke a gear tooth and it is wedged into the kicker or idler gear. Something as simple as putting the countershaft sprocket nut on backwards after puttin on the sprocket can cause BIG problems inside the clutch area....The genius that owned mine before me did it and it cost me about $400 to fix everything. I noticed yesterday that my friends Banshee had a 'loose' sprocket, he had his nut on backwards and I could feel the slop in the shaft and the spring on his kicker had already come out of its keeper slot. He didn't understand why his sprocket kept coming off. Now he has to tear open the clutch cover, fix the kicker and hunt inside for the snap-ring that holds the idler gear on. It comes off immediately and that little piece is exactly what tore my Shee a new one.
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
There's the racelogic porting templates. He puts auctions for the templates up from time to time for various engines. Might be able to email him to have him to put one up for you to buy at that price. They are like $30-40 more from www.racelogic.com Personally I have not tried the templates, I am currently looking for a set of jugs to experiment on (.050-.070)
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I adjusted the floats and cleaned the carbs out very very well. I am sure nothing it sticking or adjusted incorrectly now but the jettin situation hasnt changed. I am STILL rich with 280s. I havent checked the needle yet but if it were off by 2 positions could it really have that much of an effect on the mains? I just got it all back together after I thought I had a huge problem, ended up I completely destroyed a reed (only 2 week old Boyesens too) but its back to same ol' same ol' dead acceleration in the low end and very top end. My friends Shee with Fatty's is stomping me and its pissin me off!
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Metro-Detroit area. In Roseville now, moving to St. Clair Shores in a week.
As said, I have a 96 with a stock, untouched motor. Still runs good. I just know it's getting tired, and could use a freshening up. So, since it's stock...and they don't make a .010 piston kit, I'm 100% positive I can go a nice .020 on it...
Depending on how much they charge and how fast they can get it done, I might try to get it torn down and back together for the 4th of July weekend... If not, I'll wait...
I live near Flint and a friend of my dads runs a snowmobile engine race shop called "Iron Dog Racing" I have him do all my work. Hes excellent! You can take him your jugs and he will bore and hone them right on the spot, you won't wait but about 15 minutes. His shop is located near Clio (near I-75 & m-57) which is just over an hour away from Detroit. I think he charges $35 per jug and I wouldn't take mine to anyone else even if he charged $100. I am taking him a few jugs tonight as a matter of fact. Also, if you need parts, his prices are better than anyone elses but you have to wait for the order to come in, he doesn't keep much in stock for Banshees.
His number is (810)-241-7101, and his name is Jerry, can call up til I think around 10pm (he says midnight but I only do that if I am in a serious crunch). If he asks how you heard of him, tell him Jeff sent ya.
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A friend of mine just bought a Blaster to screw around with. We were tearing it down to paint the frame and rebuild that tiny lil motor. When we had it all apart we were wondering if its possible (without much mods) to fit the Banshee front suspension on it? I know it would make it a little wider (2-3 inches?)
Thanks
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I do have the clymer manual and thats where I tried the test. That is correct that I had the wires off and tested from the wire side of the coil to the negative side of the coil prong. So I thought it was the coil. Since the dealerships don't have any coils in stock and I don't know anyone with a Banshee I wanna know if it is possible to use say a coil off a twin cylinder snowmachine just to see if I get any spark before I order the correct one. Any coil should atleast give some spark, right??????????????
Not saying its foolproof but you might want to try Ebay for a coil. You can normally get one for $15-20 shipped. Not saying it won't be junk, but I just bought one cuz of the same problem for $8 and it works fine.
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The test procedure and exact readings are in teh Clymers manual. I don't have it in front of me or I would post it on here. If I remember later I will post the exact tolerances for resistance on the coil.
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Im assuming you havent had the flywheel taken off, since you said you havent changed the stator. After I had my flywheel lightend I didnt put it back on tight enough. It would run in neutral, but when in gear it would die. It also got progressively worse. I only mention this because I was having symptoms identical to what you described. I hope this helps,Good luck
-Brian
Mine is doing the same thing....pisses me right the F off.... I'll be riding, stop somewhere and shut it off, then out of no where it won't start up again, has spark but very weak. Won't start up by kicking it over but will start on a decent speed jump-start. Had it happen half a dozen times to the Silver lake dunes.... Now instead of going with both sides having weak spark, now one side one fire hardly at all........damn electrical crap! I think its time I call Ricky Stator, Dyna and MSD......get rid of all that Yamacrap
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If it is tranny oil, it would have nothing to do w/the rings on a 2-stroke. If it is engine tranny oil, it would have to do w/crank seal on right side, but then you would definately have oil in the right pipe. I agree that if he kicked it over a ton of times, it was probably gas mixed w/the grime in the pipe. As far as the electrical problem goes, good luck.
man........DUH.........had a brain fart, thinkin 4-stroke
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If the machine is already set up for it, its not a big deal. Can be done in just a few minutes and with much better results than with a honing stone. I've seen it done too, I've done it myself but not that often.
I would have to agree with anyone that grabbed their face and gasped "OH NO, NOT SAND PAPER!". You'll NEVER (no 'extremely difficult") achieve a 30 degree cross-hatch with sand paper. This cross-hatch grain is vital to proper ring lube. Without it..might was well buy your rings in bulk and put 'quick-disconnects' in your cylinders instead of studs. You can hone them yourself with a decent drill. Rent the hone and buy/rent stones (not sure if you can 'rent' stones) and get yourself a quart of machining oil. I'd give you directions on the exact way to do it but I dont remember the correct way of determining the rpm and stroke of the drill.....don't want to get you all screwed up. Ask someone, its not a difficult task.
If you decide to have a shop do it, I know its relatively cheap. A friend of mine does it in his shop for (I am not 100% sure on this) about $7-8 a hole, boring for $35 w/ honing included.
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Yes the end can be replaced. If you dont have the $ to go out and buy a new crank (providing your pins are worn) buy a trashed crank and take the end off. When I rebuilt mine, the keyway was totally whopped out and I thought I might have to get a new crank *thinks stroker* but the guy that I was ordering parts through and doing my machining just gave me a new end piece off of a trash crank. They are for the most part rebuildable, but sometimes not worth the effort. While you have it out, have it trued/welded. -- Read this post --How Much Money To True And Weld My Crank?
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A friend of mine that runs his own small engine race shop "Iron Dog Racing" does it pretty cheap. He did mine for free (now thats cheap) but if anyone is interested I can ask him how much he charges. He trues/welds them and actually heli-arc welds unlike a few places I have seen that actually break out the standard mig/argon welder....thats pathetic. I know he charges $35 per cylinder for boring and is VERY meticulous. I wouldn't trust anyone else to touch my jugs even if he charged double what he charges now. I am very good with machining but do not have the equipment so I know a good job when I see one (and a bad one), his is top notch every time.
If you are having him do your work, he also orders most parts cheaper than what you can buy them for most anywhere else.
My full rebuild on mine (bored/honed/welded/trued) with new Wiseco prolite pistons and wiseco rods, rod bearings, all new seals, a new tranny shaft, new clutch pushrod and lever was cheaper than the rods/pistons price retail. So I got a full rebuild (crank was still good but needed true/weld) cheaper than the price of parts for top-end rebuild I get a little special extra discount but he is still VERY cheap and VERY good.
If anyone is interested, PM me or let me know somehow and I can hook you up with his number.
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I'm going to buy eithe rthe 4 ply Holeshot, Knarly, or RAZR rear tires for my Shee. My main concern is tread life. Which will last longer? I ride on mostly dirt/sand roads, grassy areas, some rocks, and sometimes pavement.
Also, do these tires perform similarly? The Holeshots are an extra 30 bux over the RAZRs, are they worth it? How about the Knarlys?
Also, where is the cheapest place to buy tires from? So far the best I've found is Rocky Mountain ATV. Thanks.
Stinger
I dunno about Knarlys but I know I'd pick Holeshots over Razrs. I have Razrs and a friend of mine with the same exact setup has Holeshots. He pulls outta the hole on me every single time while I am sitting there spinning in the dirt. His do seem softer (both 4 ply) so I would assume shorter tread live with Holeshots but man do they hook up. One bad thing about them is they THROW ROCKS BAD! I can't ride behind him, like I want to anyway but his tires throw rocks the size of baseballs. One hit me in the chest, left a bruise, another hit the face guard on my helmet and cracked it....just make sure you apologize in advance to everyone you are gonna demolish
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Yes you will gain performance (after jetting)
Yes it will be LOUD LOUD LOUD
If its in an area where there is any possibility of bother others.....IT WILL!
If being loud and gaining power is a concern, just pull the silencers and/or stinger tubes off and run only header pipes. I did it for a few hours before I picked up my Toomey silencers....its got quite a bit more pep with them off but my god is it loud. If I had to guess I'd say in the high 120db range. My friend was (attempting) riding next to me on his piped/cammed 450R and he couldnt even hear his quad at full throttle over mine at 3/4.
The guy that said "yes it will hurt performance" was just saying that to keep you from doing it and possibily ruining oppurtunities for others. I say if you are absolutely not going to bother ANYONE!! go for it. If there is even teh slightest possibility.....DONT! Trust me, its LOUD! Toomeys are loud with silencers as it is....
Spark arrestors - ya, they 'supposedly' stop sparks in theory (fire/sparks cant travel through screens) but if you are running rich enough and the screen gets hot....it will actually ignition during any sort of backfiring. I've seen the 450R shoot flames multiple times (night time) and his is equipped with a spark arrestor.
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If its 2-stroke oil......thats A LOT. If its engine/tranny oil there might be a problem with the rings. Check the compression on that cylinder (both while you are at it). If its stock compression it should be in the 125-130psi range. Any lower and you may have ring problems. There could also be excess crank case pressure.
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As stated before.....if your a first timer, keep it simple. A simple tear down and replacement on your first one is enough to try and remember and keep everything to specs. When you change things the rules change. For a stroker you need to have different pistons, a stroker plate or a milled head for a stroker and a few other smaller things to consider. I havent done it myself but I know most of what is involved.
If you need a new crank, check out "Bancheedoctor" on Ebay, he works for Vitos. His Ebay store (vitos branch) sells items MUCH cheaper than retail and even cheaper than the dealers discount prices. Doc is a great guy to deal with. I'd much rather deal with him than Vito......Vito knows his stuff but he comes off as kind of a jerk. I met him last week and I had heard that before, it seems to be true.
The Vitos cranks, rods and pistons are all made by Wiseco, so they are obviously just as high of quality as Wiseco brand, which I believe is about as good as you can get. I don't know where other people get there info of "vito's is junk". Most of their stuff is just brand name parts repacked. Their jets/needles are just repackaged Dynojet products. I believe the pipes are also made by someone else but I can't remember.
Here is the link to his Ebay store.....check it out. Great prices.
http://stores.ebay.com/ATV-high-performanc...0QQftidZ2QQtZkm
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You should be fine
I had that happen TWICE last weekend......damn Toomeys. I rode about 4-5 miles back to the cabin both times, everything is still A-OK. I went to the hardware store and bought some loctite and lock-washers, it better never happen again. But ya.......LOUD AS HELL!!!
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Dont ever run lower than octane than what you are graded for by your compression. Even the manual (Clymers anyway) says never run below 90 oct on standard compression. A friend of mine was riding his FRESH rebuilt Shee with me in Leota and blew his head gasket and was pinging like crazy running 87 octane. Literally melted the head gasket. I run 94 on standard compression, just to be safe. If you are too poor to run high octane, you are riding the wrong kinda quad. Banshees LOVE to make a fat wallet thin.
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Thanks for the heads up on the clip. I was already planning on tearing the carbs down tomorrow. I have the Vito's needles (repacked Dynojet needles) and was going to throw those in anyway. I think my weak spark has a lot to do with the low mains, not burning all the fuel up so it looks rich...I'll know more tomorrow. Thanks
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Ok, this doesn't seem right to me because of all the jetting posts I have read. I have an 87 with the following;
-.080+ fresh bore
-matched/balanced Wiseco rods & pistons
-welded/trued crank
-Boyesen 2-stage reeds
-Toomey T5's
-K&N w/ Pro-Flow
-Air box lid removed
-stock carbs
-stock cages
-stock head
-32:1 Yamalube w/ 94 octane
My jetting is set at 280's on the mains and it is STILL rich. I am at 900 ft + sea level and I have seen that everyone has suggested between 300-330s for this setup. What could be the reason for this low of a main?
I know its rich because I have done the "ride and pull the choke 1/2 way" and a plug chop after a 6th gear topped out engine kill. The plug is still dark and wet. When I bought the Shee it had the air box lid on, stock pipes, stock crank and was .060+. It had 190's in it when I got it and was running a little lean, but nothing horrible. I went up to 210's and it was just a bit rich. I know bone-stock is supposed to be 220's and this already had the K&N and 2-stage Boyesens. I am pretty sure the carb settings are all completely stock but I know the floats need to be adjusted (leaks from bowl overflow after sitting) 
Right now it bogs out horribly in 3rd gear from time to time and it feels dead in the top 7/8 of the throttle. My friend with the same setup (.050+ though) and FMF Fattys absolutely smokes me in short races and top end drags. I should atleast be keeping up with him and I would think, beating him in the top end drags.
When I pulled the jugs off to do the rebuild last week, I noticed that the ports had been cleaned up a little, doesnt look like any real port work was done, just very half-a$$ polishing on the intake side. The other thing I have noticed is that I have a mild spark, it seems a bit weak, I tested the stator and it is fine. I just ordered a new ignition coil and am looking into a FS CDI (the adjustable timing one). I am just tryin to give as much info as possible to help me fix this problem. Its embarrassing to have a 400ex almost be able to keep up with me!
WHERE SHOULD I START?!I want to get some porting done, advance the timing, add a coolhead and some pod filters but I want to fix what wrong first!
Next step for a quicker Banshee
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
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