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Tedder

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Posts posted by Tedder

  3. Methanol tips and tricks

    in Jetting & Exhaust Forum

    Posted

    Registered user is 100% right. So many variables and a lot of testing that you'll need to do on your specific application. 

    Number one, It will take a LOT more fuel to keep from burning it down. Guzzler, Opened vents, big bowls etc.  

    Don't get greedy when your testing, Baby steps as you go - I use Digitrons and do plug reads to monitor my passes. ***Even so you'll likely eat a piston or two during your learning curve.

    As for plugs - Most Banshees running gas use BR8 NGK's - On alcohol BR9's which is a colder plug are pretty much the standard.    

    I use bored 39 PWKS and 41 Pro's (both the same bore size) in my 1/4 mile asphalt motors. The mains and dump tubes are drilled to .120 plus they have power jets. 

    Pilots are as small as I can get away with (50 or 52 I believe) If you go to small you'll get lean hangs at best and at worst it'll rev to the moon at startup.

    As posted earlier, Alcohol generally requires a different dome configuration and additional timing. 

    Now let's throw a wrench in it all - My son (Banshee) and grandson (Apex) run 2 -300 ft dirt drags and the fuel requirements are very different. Smaller mains/dumps and very little or no power jets needed depending on distance and track bite.

    Oil - I used to run 32:1 Blendzall but switched to 927. You'll have to do your own research to verify your oil choice is methanol compatible. I think mixing at 20:1 is fine. On a side note. I live in the Northeast. I liked Klotz Super Techniplate in gas motors for years but it's hygroscopic and did ugly things to the inside of our alcohol motors even with very good purging practices. 

    Hope this helps

     

  9. plugs keep coming loose

    in General Banshee Discussion

    Posted

    I keep this in my shop to remind me that lean is mean.

    This damage was caused from light detonation that was felt right away and throttled out.  

    In addition to what you see of this Hot Rod crank bearing a tiny sliver of the race found its way into the combustion chamber and torn up the piston, dome and nikasil.     

    100_3740.jpg

  16. Just had to end done and have no power and is backfiring!

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    Assuming the jetting was good before I doubt those upgrades would make such a huge difference on your current running issue.  If lean pilot circuit is the problem - *There are always exceptions* such as carbs that sat around a long time with fuel in them and dried out/gummed up but most often if the pilot circuit is lean it's from a piece of foreign material stuck in the jet itself. You should be able to see daylight through the jet when held up to the light. 

  25. Shifting issues

    in General Banshee Discussion

    Posted

    In response to a great question by RagunCajun I thought I'd throw out some trans info including various shifting problems and fixes I've had over the years. 

    His quote "please report back once the pro mod is in. I went from an override to pro mod so I don't know how much better a pro mod is over stock." 

    I'm the odd man out here running airshifted auto 1-4 m5&6 overrides (asphalt) but my son runs 6 speed promods for dirt drags, asphalt and secondary road riding which is legal here in Ohio.

    My overrides require ignition kill to shift into the non-cut 5th and 6th gears. Without unloading the tranny gear pressure no upshift will happen.

    My son ran stock trannies for years before upgrading to promods. When it comes to making super-fast "fan the clutch" type shifts his promods are without a doubt easier and far more reliable in making constant shifts over his OEM's but other than that situation I personally don't feel a promod has a great advantage...     

    With regards to the following keep in mind that the troubles we ran into over the years were under race, wide open throttle type conditions/situations:

    The FIRST thing either of us will do when we run into missed quick shift situations at the track is change the oil. When the oil gets contaminated with clutch material it seems to cause problems with the smooth sliding internals when under pressure. I especially have to watch this in my asphalt Banshee's with multi-stage clutches which slip out of the hole because clutch material sheds off so much faster than usual.  *Something I started doing long ago - Because of the contamination I drain the trans at the end of each race day and filter it through a fine paint strainer then let it sit for months to completely settle anything out. When I fill my tranny I use 1 litre of fresh new oil and top off with the strained. 

    As far as transmission mechanical stuff goes:

    I'd say for sure that one of the most important adjustments to check if you're having problems is the shift/change lever but make certain that all the individual components are good and within spec because it isn't normal for that adjustment to change to the point of causing shifting trouble unless something is broken or heavily worn.      

    A couple of weak links in Banshee transmissions are (1st) OEM second gears can be broke even with small motors. Be there done that in as small as a 358 cub. Robison billets are great imo and I'll leave it at that...  (2nd) 3rd wheel gear has a very narrow area that rides on the splined output shaft and once galled shifting nightmares occur. I recommend Molly paste on assembly. A tube will last you forever.  Moroso 35000 Moroso Moly Paste Assembly Lubes | Summit Racing

    Long winded for sure and I don't want to come off as a know it all because I'm still learning with these things. Just hoping that someone might pickup some useful information on my first hand experiences and maybe spark some interest back at the HQ!!     

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