criswrld

I meant go up on the pilot for reeds. Anyway here's a great site I found while doing some research on fine tuning a banshee. It's basically everything about banshee carbs and fine tuning them and it's really helpful. Check it out!!!!!!!!! Copy and Paste www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

I have t-6 pipes, modded lid w/ K&N, boyessen carbon fiber reeds, and boost bottle. Given this fact they say go up 8 for pipes which given stock is about 200-220 depending on where you live, that alone would put me around 280-290. Then a K&N you should go 4-6 up which then puts me at 320-350 range and then aftermarket reeds another 2. So i think from going by all that 340 is perfect. Just going on everything i read from manufactures and sites like bansheehq. No needles aren't bottomed in main because if i put slides in without being hooked up with cables they go all the way down. As far as my pillots go every one on this site thats done these mods have went with a 30 or in other cases a 32.5 or even alittle bigger so i would say i'm really close on the pilots and mains. I honestly believe that if i adjust needle up or down 1, not sure which yet and fine tune air screws it should be set. But like i said i'm no expert by far and just know what i've read and right now it's unfortanetly trial and error. If anyone has some other info or ideas feel free to clue me in some more. Thanks to all

One of the stock needles has a slight bend on end from dropping it and isn't useable. Finally may have figured something else out though. Someone suggested messing with idle screw some which is aftermarket because tors were removed. Anyway i was reading up on idle screw kits and read that they have a locknut on them. Anyway mine does not have one, it has a little o-ring on it which original person may have put on there for some reason, dont know. Anyway someone told me to drive it out further which i did about 5-6 turns out. Set the air screws on two. Finally got it to idle without choke being on and it does idle very good now. But when i took it down the rode for a split second it did have a slight hesitation in 1/4 to maybe 1/2 or more throttle which would be needles. Heres the thing though, i pulled choke half out and it dies within 5 seconds, pull it fully and it dies right then. Anyway i let it cool until pipes were cold and went to start it with choke half and nothing. Then fully, nothing. Then without choke on and nothing still. Then gave it alittle throttle and it fired up and idled. So given all of this and my brains fried from reading so much and messing withit i'm not sure if i should start messing with needle settings or what. The whole choke thing has me alittle puzzled right now. Im not sure if i could dial air screws in alittle better or go straight for the needle. Obvious answer for now wouild be air screws but at this point im not sure if i'm running rich or lean. It's dark out and i live in a residential area so my fine tuning is done for the night. Thank you and please repond asap because i may start ripping into tonight possibly but can't start it motor until tomorrow. One other thing i noticed is i didn't really see to much smoke when idling but when i crack throttle open it smoked quit abit still so then again im not sure if it's rich or lean, im thinking the choke deal will tell you guys something though. Thanks

Pulling the choke out doesn't make it run better, it just makes it idle without the higher revving. If i pull choke all the way out, it dies. Take it down rode with choke out it runs like shit, pop it in and it takes off almost like it should. Also yes 1/4 more needle is longer and would make it run leaner but however theres that problem with slides being open 1/4 or more with no throttle or anything which kinda rules out the longer needle issue in a way. This is the problem of buying a quad with mods already because you didn't do everything your self. Thats why it's nice to do things yourself and fix problems as you go instead of trying to fix something when you got fifty other issues that could be the problems also. If i was planning on keeping it i would just buy a single carb and that would fix all my problems but unfortanetly im taking a beating on it already and refuse to dump big money into more. So i have to fix this problem and have no other choice than to get it done. Thank you

When i last had carbs apart, i was messing with idle screws thinking that they were what was hanging up slides, If you unscrew them almost all the way out till you have only a little point showing while looking in carbs they will drop slides down but theres still a gap there half the size or more. Also i just sprayed half a can of WD around intake area that your were mentioning and all boots and had a spot light on them and noticed no bubbles or anything that would spell leak. Also as far as gaskets go from intake it goes...gasket, spacer, gasket, reed cage,rubber boot, and then carb. I sprayed this area down good and noticed nothing at all. Things i might try now are.............. 1. Unscrew idle screws till theres nothing inside of carb but a little point poking out. 2. Take everything apart again and inspect the never reeds. 3. Detach throttle cable from twist throttle and see if it drops slides down completely. This would rule out the original owner did or didn't install twist cable after replacing thumb throttle. 4. Mess with needles in carbs, but honestly im not sure which way to go with these since everything doesn't make since now on how to adjust it. 5. anything else you guys think i should look at or not. Thank you everyone!!!

Also forgot to add while finding out all of this i tried messing with air screws from starting in .5 turn to 2 turns out and nothing making a difference. Even messed with idle screws from 1 turn and then 2 turns out and nothing either.

Haven't yet torn into it but i did figure out a few things. When you start it, 1st kick without choke on it fires right up but it revs high. Pull the choke and it sits and idles. Take it down the street with choke on, it runs like crap, Put the choke in and it takes off and runs almost like it should. Pull choke all the way out and it dies. When idleing with choke off it revvs high but it's a consistent high and doesn't go up or down even when you turn the bars so therefore i would think the cable isn't binding and besides it iidles with choke on but does run like crap that way. Would this info wouldn't this rule out 1. cable binding 2. air leak which i haven't yet tested it. If i'm mistaken i thought if you pulled choke out and it runs great your motors running lean. If it runs like crap with choke out its rich?????? I'm very confused on all of this and can't figure it out. Just for recap im running 340 main, 30 pilot, and aftermarket needle which is longer than stock and has 6 clip positions and its on the forth. Please help me figure this out. Thank you to all for the great knowledge.

Haven't yet torn into it but i did figure out a few things. When you start it, 1st kick without choke on it fires right up but it revs high. Pull the choke and it sits and idles. Take it down the street with choke on, it runs like crap, Put the choke in and it takes off and runs almost like it should. Pull choke all the way out and it dies. When idleing with choke off it revvs high but it's a consistent high and doesn't go up or down even when you turn the bars so therefore i would think the cable isn't binding and besides it iidles with choke on but does run like crap that way. Would this info wouldn't this rule out 1. cable binding 2. air leak which i haven't yet tested it. If i'm mistaken i thought if you pulled choke out and it runs great your motors running lean. If it runs like crap with choke out its rich?????? I'm very confused on all of this and can't figure it out. Just for recap im running 340 main, 30 pilot, and aftermarket needle which is longer than stock and has 6 clip positions and its on the forth. Please help me figure this out. Thank you to all for the great knowledge.

Slides don't appear to be sticking, they fuction without any resistance and in sync. Tops are tight. Haven't looked at reeds since install but they only have about 1 hour on them and we're tight upon install. I will check for airleak first and if nothing then i will take all apart once again and will check reeds. Ducman suggested ditching spacers, if i do have to dissassemble everything do you second that?? Thank you for your response.

While i hope it's not running out of fuel!!! The only thing that concerns me about my jetting is the damn aftermarket needle which is about 1/4 or more longer than stock and not sure how far its going down into carb?? But given theres that slide issue or not, but where it's open 1/4 inch or so the longer needle might not be affecting the flow of things. Like i said it's a 6 position needle and i have it on the 4th, technically would make it leaner if it weren't for the slides being up some. As for airleak i'm thinking thats a possibility however before i started rejetting it wasn't a issue of revving irratically it was only a case or running too rich and i found slides to be reversed and thought everything would be fine after that!!! I will spray for airleaks friday and post my findings. How should i go about doing that though, choke off it's revving to high and choke on it's fine, should i spray intakes down with choke on w/ WD and if it start running like crap thats the problem?? Thanks again

So you would suggest ditching the spacers?? When i spray for the air leak around intake area, given the idling problem should i try and run it with choke on or off with it revving higher?? Basically if there is a air leak the WD will cause it to start running poorly?? Let me know and i will post what i find on friday. Thanks to everyone for all the great advice!!!

2001 banshee w/ Bolt-on mods........... Toomey T-6 pipes, boyessen carbon fiber reeds and spacers, K&N with 8 holes drilled on top of lid, boost bottle. Basically only bolt-ons and motor is strictly stock. Stock carbs w/ tors removed- I put 340 mains, 30 pilot, aftermarket needle which has 6 positions, its on the 4th from blunt end. 2 screws out on air screws. 2 out on idle. Carbs in sync with no play or hesitation. No i haven't sprayed for air leaks yet either. Also pipes and reeds are newer and have just been jetted to settings above. Also i would love to get a new set of stock needles to make dialing it in better but i'm not paying LBS $50 something dollars for two needles. That does also include 4 screws and mounting hardware on top of slides but still that seems rediculous. I just need two stock needles which they don't sell separately. Anyway............. Here's what its doing. After havng carbs apart, it started on 1st kick without choke. As it started, probably 20 seconds into it the motor started revving up without me doing anything. I started trying to dial in the idle screws and nothing, then i got about 1/2 turn in or out on the air screw can't remember. Basically with it revving iratically which bothered me because i don't want to mess anything up i resorted to pulling the choke half out and it calmed idle down to normal. I let it warm up to where the pipes were warm/hot with choke on the whole time. Once i thought it was at a good operatiing temp, i turned choke off and it revved irratically again which really Pissed me off because im tired of tearing it apart over and over again. Put choke back on which calmed it again and decided to take it down the rode which i only got the end of second and came back. It had a bog to it which didn't surprise me much since given the condition of having to have the choke on. Although i didn't rev it up when first initial trying to work things out it seemed like it was gumming up or something, hard to tell. Given all this info my guesses would be............... 1. Air leak after reading all the various other threads on bansheehq 2. Choke tube but mines installed and isn't the issue. 3. My slides aren't backwards anymore so thats not the issue either which i didn't do by the way although if given the chance i probably would have. 4. Needle setting is incorrect?? 5. Mess with air screws more?? 6. Oh yeah it does still smoke quit abit too, At first start up i didn't notice much but after messing with settings for the split second i did, I managed to make it smoke again. Also is smoke white or blueish, i have no clue because not only am i no mechanic im also colorblind. But i did check antifreeze levels and they have not diminished at all and oil level is the same. Smoke doesn't smell sweet either, it's more like going to a indoor motocross show, gotta love that smell. Anyway i know this thing is going to scream once it's dialed in better. I just need everyones professional opinions. Thanks again J.J.

Actually, i question myself all the time and if i know what i'm doing?? Finally got it running today. I'm thinking about posting another thread because now i think its unrelated to slides question. Given the info and mods............. Toomey T-6 pipes, boyessen carbon fiber reeds and spacers, K&N with 8 holes drilled on top of lid, boost bottle. Basically only bolt-ons and motor is strictly stock. Given that the slides aren't the issue which hasn't been totally ruled out yet either. I put 340 mains, 30 pilot, aftermarket needle which has 6 positions, its on the 4th from blunt end. 2 screws out on air screws. 2 out on idle. Carbs in sync with no play or hesitation. No i haven't sprayed for air leaks yet either. Here's what its doing. After havng carbs apart, it started on 1st kick without choke. As it started, probably 20 seconds into it the motor started revving up without me doing anything. I started trying to dial in the idle screws and nothing, then i got about 1/2 turn in or out on the air screw can't remember. Basically with it revving iratically which bothered me because i don't want to mess anything up i resorted to pulling the choke half out and it calmed idle down to normal. I let it warm up to where the pipes were warm/hot with choke on the whole time. Once i thought it was at a good operatiing temp, i turned choke off and it revved irratically again which really Pissed me off because im tired of tearing it apart over and over again. Put choke back on which calmed it again and decided to take it down the rode which i only got the end of second and came back. It had a bog to it which didn't surprise me much since given the condition of having to have the choke on. Although i didn't rev it up when first initial trying to work things out it seemed like it was gumming up or something, hard to tell. Given all this info my guesses would be............... 1. Air leak after reading all the various other threads on bansheehq 2. Choke tube but mines installed and isn't the issue. 3. My slides aren't backwards anymore so thats not the issue either which i didn't do by the way although if given the chance i probably would have. 4. Needle setting is incorrect?? 5. Mess with air screws more?? 6. I refuse to listen to people saying that it's a crank issue, headgasket, etc.......so please don't tell me that because i may just start crying. 7. Oh yeah it does still smoke quit abit too, At first start up i didn't notice much but after messing with settings for the split second i did, I managed to make it smoke again. Also is smoke white or blueish, i have no clue because not only am i no mechanic im also colorblind. But i did check antifreeze levels and they have not diminished at all and oil level is the same. Smoke doesn't smell sweet either, it's more like going to a indoor motocross show, gotta love that smell. Anyway i know this thing is going to scream once it's dialed in better. I just need everyones professional opinions. Thanks again J.J.

I PM'd JJ letting him know that i just got done installing new pipes, carbon reeds and spacers and was trying to dial in carbs jetting. Thats when i noticed the slides weren't in the closed position when not running. I wanted to make sure this wasn't a problem while it was all apart to correct it if it was. As for how it's running it's very hard to tell if the slides are a issue or not because as you all know it takes time just getting the carbs dialed. But as to are they in sync, i would say yes because they open and close at the exact same time with no hesitation. With the aftermarket needles being longer they don't come out of dump tube, however when i went to switch to the stock ones to make dialing it in easier on me the stock ones where popping out because at WOT the slides were raising too high because like i said theres almost 1/4 inch space with slides closed so when they raise it was too far and they popped out. However after doing some research and believe me i'm no expert by far i decided to check slides and they were reversed and it wasn't by me, so i corrected them and theres still a gap there the same distance, and i imagine factory needles would still pop out because they raise and lower the same distance. Basically my main concern at time was if it was normal to have a 1/4 inch gap in slides or not and what effects it would have and if it should it be corrected and if so, how?? I just really wanted to know if this was a problem because it's hard enough dialing carbs let alone something else giving you false readings!!! Thank you for responding and sorry i didn't post this info originally instead of PM it.

2001 banshee w/ tons and tons of mods from Ohio 44288 Heres a link to view pics on ebay since i originally couldn't post them on here. Keep in mind that i posted it in atv parts on ebay just so i could advertise it to others and it only cost me $1.85 instead of listing it in atv's section and costing $40 or more to save money. I also highlighted a few times not to bid on auction and they still are. If you read it you will understand, basically it's to advertise without paying all those damn fees on ebay and paypal. It may be taken off by ebay from certain comments i made and the fact i'm taking money from there pockets by telling ebayers not to bid and using there site for advertising to all, lol. I did alreadly list on bansheehq but could not get pics posted after many hours of trying so i apologize to all for opening up a new thread but i just know that once you guys see these posts and for the price asking which is now lowered to $3,400 some will be interested. I just wanted to post a newer thread because almost 200 viewed the old one without pics and 1 of those could have been a potential buyer, so i apologize again for any that may be mad. I've had a few inquires PM me but so far the closest person has been 600 miles away. I really can't slide anymore on price, sorry. You might be able to get it down to $3,300 but my head may pop off from the beating i'm taking. Thank you Copy and paste below to your browser http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...4539549835&rd=1

I've read so many discussions involving carbs and jetting and such and still can't figure out my problem so if i could get some responses it would be greatly appreciated. First off i have a 2001 banshee w/stock carbs, tors removed with screw on tops and not sure what kit it is because it was there when i purchased it. Anyway my question is that when you remove airbox and look into carbs the slides are not all the way closed and theres a gap aprox. 1/4 of inch and if you twist throttle all the way open they obviously go way too far up, there are aftermarket needles which are longer than stock ones and do not pop out of carbs.Given this problem if stock needles were used they would pop out below. I've tried numerous things to correct this such as adjusting the top of carb tops, nothing. Slides are in correctly and not backwards. If you thread the idle screws all the way out this will close about half the distance but not fully shut still. Carbs are in sync because they open and close at the same exact time. Me being no expert by far and most of my knowledge coming from this site or others like it have come down to a few possibilities...................... 1. It does have a twist throttle on it but im not sure if cable was replaced which if it's from the thumb throttle could be to short which is keeping slides open???? Just a guess. 2. I don't know shit about syncing of carbs and thats the problem?? 3. Something to do with carb tops although they are screwd down tightly?? 4. Your guess is as good as mine?? Your knowledge is much appreciated so please help and thank you!!!

2001 Banshee with tons of mods and money invested. I need $3,600 firm. Tons of new/aftermarket parts. I live in Ohio 44288. No shipping. Pickup only!!!! Email me at [email protected], this is my girlfriends address and she has broadband so it's left on all day. Email me for pics, i have about 20 of them and i apologize for not being able to post them on here, I'm new to site and can't figure it out yet Aftermarket Parts consist of: 1.Chrome Laeger +2 a-arms 2.Durablue +5 adjustable rear axle w/ billet axle nut 3.TCS Progressive rate shocks (front), factory rear 4.ITP Aluminum wheels front and rear w/ Razr tires, rear tires being newer 5.Barnett Clutch w/ heavy duty springs 6.Toomey T6 full pipes in chrome w/ dynojet kit 7.Renthal bars and rear sprocket 8.MSR billet clutch lever and brand new clutch cable 9.AC grab bar 10.AC rear skid plate 11.Graydon front bumper 12.AC rear skid plate 13.K&N filter 14.Billet reed spacers 15.Billet rear e-block off 16.steering stabilizer 17.Black fenders front and rear with front being race cut and being maier plastic. I also have a extra set of full front fenders. 18.Yellow radiator and tank plastic (OEM plastic) 19.Tors removed, idle screws installed, tether installed 20.boost bottle Brand New Parts consist of: 1.Bottom End was just rebuilt and cost me over $550 to have done, 2.Billet Motion pro twist throttle and cable w/ new scott grips 3.Boyessen carbon fiber reeds 4.Kick Starter 5.Headlights (newer headlights) 6.FMF graphics kit and seat cover 7.Chrome aluminum radiator grill 8.Pivot Works swing-arm kit 9.2 new chain rollers, frame slide, and brand new chain. 10.Yellow Dirt Works shock covers 11.Newer front brake pads and brand new rears. As you can see there