DCBLACK

I'm running 370's in stock carbs with all the other stuff that I have done. I'm running at 4500 above sea level. I think the next thing I do will be 34 mm carbs and port my transfers because they aren't even touched as of yet. I think I'll be at a pretty happy medium right there. I think if I ported the transfers at this point it would be hard on the engine because my stock carbs couldn't feed it. Oh by the way I have K&N's, T5's, 19cc domes, V-Force 2s, Advanced Timing +5, Welded Crank, Lightened Flywheel. And some other stuff that doesn't affect the engine. Dave

A friend of mine just had a similar prob with his banshee after he freshened up the top end and I went to help him we pulled his jugs back off and his pistons were in backward so you could check that also. That and a compression test will tell you a lot.

You can search for them on ebay they have the price lower on there for a limited amount of time. Anyway, I wish I had taken some pictures but I didn't I was too excited to get the bike back together. I am planning on pulling it back down to port my transfers down at the case and match that all up. Maybe then I will get some pictures. I think they looked really close to a professional job; of course I'm sure that with some better tools I could have had it done quicker. For instance, hand polishing the exhaust was pretty rough. It cut up my hands and gave me blisters. As for dyno results, I don't have any access to a dyno so I don't have any numbers for you. I'll tell you it runs really good for a duner bike. Also, my favorite part of porting my own bike was that I got to learn all about what different things did, I went slow I had my jugs off a total of 4 times moving and changing ports a bit untill I had the result I wanted. I have to admit my ports are slightly different than their template but it was a great starting point. If your gonna dive into porting your jugs buy them so you at least have an idea of where to start. I know that I could go a lot bigger but the front end pops clear into fourth so until I extend the bike it is fast enough. Need to update my sig apparently

Awhile back I posted about doing your own porting. I asked a few questions and got some helpful advice and also some people telling me that I was not smart for wanting to alter my ports on my own. Most of the replies I got were to the effect of pay this shop or that guy some $400 - $700 to port my engine. I am fairly versed at working on my bike although I hadn't really worked on one until I bought my bike last winter. Since then I have installed V-Force Reeds, K&N's, Lightened Flywheel, Gears and Coolhead. I had also polished my exhaust and cleaned up my ports. I did all this stuff myself and I didn't want to pay to do my porting. After I had posted about porting Racelogic contacted me and I decided to get some of their Stage 2 porting templates for a Banshee. I pulled it down and ported it with a pneumatic dremel style tool according to the templates. After I did this I beadblasted the intake and transfers then went back together with it. I ride at sand mountain here in Utah and although I have never clocked speed on the mountain I went from running a strong 3rd gear to running 4th up the face. The powerband on the bike is smooth all the way through not abrupt like I have seen on some port jobs. And John Calwell the gentleman from Racelogic was awesome to work with. I received the templates within 2 days of ordering them and I definately recommend that if you are somewhat handy, pretty patient and want to save some money for a port job that you call racelogic. DCBLACK

Well I figured out what it was, key switch. Damn thing must have went out because I bypassed it and she runs like a champ. Thanks for your input.

Agreed. Anyway for the guy that said run it against a professional port job. I already did before I did any of my latest mods on my porting and I was right with him beat him twice and he beat me twice and that was just with polishing and matching the exhaust and cleaning up the intake and transfers. Just want a little more so I went down on my domes lightened the flywheel and opened up the exhaust port a little. Course now it doesn't have any spark. If you wanna help check out my other post. It has all the info. This site is a lot of fun. Everyone has a very strong opinion and it is good for input if you don't take it personally. I'll let you know how it runs when it does. If it runs like shit I'll just throw a big bore on it......

Pulled down the bike a couple of days ago, had the crank out of the bike, went to smaller domes on the head, and lightened the flywheel. Also took the e-brake cable off. Have tested, stator, pickup coil, swapped out coil, swapped out cdi box, pulled apart key switch and cleaned, pulled apart kill switch and cleaned, still no spark or intermittent spark. It has run a couple of times since the build but acts like it is flooded, no power, won't idle, missing and it won't run very long when I can get it to start. I guess what I am asking is how do I bypass the plug for the park brake and would that cause the type of problem that I am having. The TORS plug is disconnected and the TORS are eliminated. I am at my wits end. After all the reading I have done this morning I am thinking that it is because I pulled my park brake cable but I couldn't find the info to bypass that. Thanks in advance for the help.

I'll be there.

Thanks for the help, those of you who did and I disagree with the statement that the home mechanic cannot expect to get the results of a professional. Everyone has to start somewhere and there is not any way to know what you are getting or could have if you don't do the research, read the books and do the necessary measuring and math. Those professionals do a nice job but they too had to start somewhere. I know that there is a wealth of information to be had on the internet and I am the type of person that would want learn how rather than pay someone else and not understand why my bike does or doesn't do certain things.

If it matters to everybody that I don't do all caps I can handle that but being annoyed by it seems a little knit picky. The reason I do because when I am at work the dealership software is in all caps. It is a pain in the ass to change all the time when I am switching from program to program trying to post up. I'm not trying to be an asshole I just wouldn't get all mad over something small. I understand the concept of yelling but there would be a whole lot of cuss words in that if I was yelling I am assuming that yes some people on here do have the info I am looking for, yes I have searched and no there isn't a lot of info for the specific question that I am asking. In fact I expected this answer "Send it off to this guy or that shop and spend 400 - 700 dollars for a port job that isn't exactly what I want. Sorry if I annoyed you all. I figure that you won't be telling me the information that I need anyway. If you know the answer to the question then you probably do porting professionally and wouldn't want to give out these answers to the do it yourselfer and I will end up learning by trial and error just like I usually do. Thanks if you help I have made my peace.

I like the look of the new TRX450Rs but I love the analogy of the small block chev. and I LOVE BANSHEES. I can take that analogy a few steps farther what about parts being inexpensive, easy to work on, and aftermarket parts availability. For what I use my quad for it is the best one available. You won't find any bike dollars per horsepower that will beat a banshee in the sand. I am 4 grand into my banshee and it isn't the fastest one out there but I have never seen any 4 stroke that will beat me to the top of sand mountain......Wait I take that back a few guys put bullet bike motors on their banshees they smoke most everybody. Anyway just my 2 cents though.

Sorry doesn't bother me but if it makes one person happy that isn't really going to help me. THEN I WON'T USE ALL CAPS. THANKS A BUNCH..............NOT

CHOKE CHERRY IS A KILLER HILL. STEEP AS HELL BUT MY FAVORITE IS THE ONE I RIDE MOST; SAND MOUNTAIN LITTLE---SAHARA, UT. CLOSE TO 700 FT TALL. IT'S GOT THE FINGERS WHICH ARE STEEP, THE FACE, THE RIDGE AND THE RACEWAY BEHIND IT WHICH IS NOT SO STEEP. SORRY I DON'T KNOW HOW TO POST A PIC OF IT AND DON'T HAVE ONE ON MY COMPUTER AT WORK. DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TALL CHOKE CHERRY OR CHINA HILL ARE?

OBVIOUSLY I AM NEW TO THE FORUMS BUT WOULD LIKE TO ASK SOME INTERESTING QUESTIONS ABOUT PORTING. DO ANY OF YOUR PORT JOBS HAVE THE TRANSFERS OPENED UP AT THE TOPS OF THEM INTO THE CYLINDER? ALSO THINKING OF PUTTING IN FINGER PORTS AND OPENING UP THE TRANSFER PORTS DOWN AT THE BLOCK AND MATCHING THOSE TO THE JUGS. HOW MUCH CAN I DO AND STILL RETAIN A SMOOTH POWER CURVE AND SOME DECENT BOTTOM END. I DON'T JUST WANT TO DROP IT OFF AND HAVE A MACHINE SHOP PORT IT. I WANT TO UNDERSTAND WHICH CHANGES WILL DO WHAT. I KNOW A LITTLE ABOUT CHARTING YOUR PORT JOB AND MATCHING THE TRANSFERS ACCROSS FROM EACH OTHER BUT THERE IS NO GOOD WAY KNOW WHAT YOU ARE GONNA GET FROM CERTAIN CHANGES OTHER THAN EXPERIENCE. ONCE YOU GO TOO FAR WITH IT THERE IS NO GETTING YOUR LOW END BACK. ANYWAYS THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR FEEDBACK AND IF YOU CAN JUST TELL ME YOUR EXPERIENCE ALONG WITH PICTURES THAT WOULD HELP A BUNCH. THE MORE INFO THE BETTER.

THANKS FOR THE INFO RICHYBANSHEE. I WILL SACRIFICE WINNING IN A DRAG FOR BEING ABLE TO RIDE COMFORTABLE THROUGH THE DUNES. MAYBE THE ANSWER IS FOR MIKE AND I TO STROKE OURS AND KEEP THE POWER IN THE LOW END. I DON'T KNOW ABOUT MIKE BUT I NEED MY BIKE TO STAY A LITTLE BIT ALL PURPOSE. HEY MIKE DON'T DO THAT 15 TOOTH SPROCKET AT LEAST NOT WITH THE TEN PADDLES MAYBE IT WOULD WORK BETTER WITH THE EIGHTS. REMEMBER HOW MINE RAN WITH THE HIGH GEARS. YOUR GEARS ARE ALRIGHT.

I DON'T KNOW I BEAT HIM UP THE HILL AT NIGHT DRUNK ON MINE SO WE AREN'T FAR OFF HIS HEALS I'M PRETTY SURE I'LL TAKE HIM UP THE BACK SIDE. YOU WOULD BE SURPRISED WHAT YOUR BIKE IS CAPABLE OF ONCE YOU GET GOOD ENOUGH TO PUSH IT A LITTLE. IT IS DAMN HARD TO TAKE IT THROUGH THE WOOPS IN FIFTH BUT DOING THAT WILL PUT YOU AHEAD OF HIM ONCE THE HILL GETS SMOOTH HE MIGHT CATCH YOU BUT MAYBE NOT AND GET YOUR ASS BACK ON THE SEAT AND MAKE THE FRONT LIGHTER AND HELP OUT THE TRACTION TO THE REAR. THOSE TEN PADDLES YOU ARE THINKING ABOUT WILL HELP TOO. OF COURSE MY WEIGHT IS A BIT LESS AND BLACK IS A BIT BETTER THAN BLUE TOO SO YOU HAVE SOME OBSTACLES TO OVERCOME. GUESS WHAT DENNY IS GONNA SELL ME HIS TIMING PLATE CUZ HIS NEW STATOR COMES WITH ONE AND HE IS NOT GONNA MAKE THE DUNES THIS WEEKEND BUT I CAN GO GET IT TONIGHT IF YOU LEND ME YOUR FLYWHEEL TOOL I'LL HAVE THAT ON MY BIKE FOR THIS WEEKEND. FOR YOU EXPERTS OUT THERE WHAT CAUSES THE BIKE TO HAVE A REALLY WEAK LOW END AND WHEN IT HITS THE POWERBAND IT IS LIKE TURNING THE LIGHTS ON IT GOES FROM DEAD TO SCREAMING. THE ONLY WAY I KNOW OF TO DESCRIBE IT IS LIKE HITTING A WALL. IS THIS DUE TO THE PORTING? IF SO IS THERE ANY WAY TO GET THE POWER BUT STILL KEEP IT SMOOTH WHEN YOU DO YOUR PORT WORK. MY BIKE IS SET UP SIMILAR TO CANDY BLUE'S AND I CAN BEAT THIS OTHER KID UP THE HILL BUT THAT HAS ONLY HAPPENED THE LAST TIME I RAN HIM AND ALSO MOST OF THAT IS BECAUSE I AM A LITTLE MORE EXPERIENCED OF A RIDER I BEAT HIM THROUGH THE WOOPS AND HE CATCHES ME ON THE FLAT THEN THROUGH THE WOOPS AT THE TOP I PASS HIM AGAIN.

I think if you bought some Renthal Handlebars then you might beet him! How do you know if you haven't even opened the thing up yet sounds like it'll do the hill in 4th if it does it in third at half throttle and pulls the tires when you punch it. Maybe this weekend we can find out if it is faster.