Dr. Overkill

2002 Banshee - Maier Raptor style plastics, FMF Fatties, ITP Sand Star tires on Douglas wheels F/R, Clutch Assist, AC Racing aluminum front bumper, aluminum cooler rack, billet flamed water pump cover. Internally stock, but it had a fresh top end when we purchased it in 2005. Low hours, wife-ridden since. Clean plastics and frame, stored indoors. Asking $3000, price includes the sand tires and wheels plus the stock knobbies & wheels (in good shape), full tank of gas plus a couple extra gallons premixed in a dump can, Clymer manual, extra Yamalube R2 premix and Bel Ray gear oil, extra spark plugs, spare ignition key... Located in El Cajon (San Diego), CA, zip 92020 No trades. I do take PayPal but you need to check out the bike and pick it up in person, or find someone locally to do so. If you'd like to ship it, you need to make the arrangements to have it picked up by the shipper or I can deliver within reasonable distance. Dennis

No, I'm not going to part it out. Though I'd be glad to sell you the plastics for $3200 and throw in a free Banshee ;-)

2002 Banshee - Maier Raptor style plastics, FMF Fatties, ITP Sand Star tires on Douglas wheels F/R, Clutch Assist, AC Racing aluminum front bumper, aluminum cooler rack, billet flamed water pump cover. Internally stock, but it had a fresh top end when we purchased it in 2005. Low hours, wife-ridden since. Clean plastics and frame, stored indoors. Asking $3200, price includes the sand tires and wheels plus the stock knobbies & wheels (in good shape), full tank of gas plus a couple extra gallons premixed in a dump can, Clymer manual, extra Yamalube R2 premix and Bel Ray gear oil, extra spark plugs, spare ignition key... Located in El Cajon (San Diego), CA, zip 92020 No trades, and no shipping. I do take PayPal but you need to check out the bike and pick it up in person, or find someone locally to do so. Dennis

I was thinking that it shouldn't leak fuel while it's sitting parked in between trips, but then I remembered that towing it would bounce it around some, probably enough to slosh gas around in the bowl and possibly send some into the intakes.

BTW, could fuel have gotten into the cyls and down past the rings? Would take a pretty good leak to get there, no? Probably a good idea to change the gear oil anyway...

YES! I did forget to turn the petcock off between trips. Strange, though, because I replaced the needle valves about two trips ago, so shouldn't that prevent that from happening? Hmm, maybe I was just imagining the running-funky stuff, over-sensitized to every little thing after it was such a biotch to start....

Thanks! My bike is stored at about 1000-1500 ft elevation. No plug chop. Didn't even think of that this past weekend I wouldn't go so far as to actually try to cut the plug open as I've seen some people here do, but I could have at least taken a look at them after a hard WOT run and killing the engine. Mebbe next time, if I don't get it figured out before then.

Gang, First, and main question: what is a normal cylinder compression on a stock engine? Range from what to what? I assume someone has posted it on BHQ (probably many times) but I sure as heck can't find it easily. I have an '02 bike that the PO said he had the top end done on at some point. I don't know whether that's the first time it had been done or more. Is there any reason that would that alter the expected compression readings? Second... For the first time since I've owned it, it did NOT want to start up at the beginning of our trip to Glamis last weekend. Took a good 60 kicks and when it did show a little sputter to life, it just didn't want to hang on. It's always been super touchy about any throttle when it's cold (and always requires choke on the 2nd click for several minutes, unlike my other 2 Banshees which required only one click and then immediately off after it's running). So needless to say, once it started to sputter, giving it any gas killed it. New plugs didn't help. The plugs that were in it were a little oily around the threads, but the electrodes looked fine. Until about the 60th kick or so, when it finally kicked over... After that, the bike ran pretty much alright,, but there were some things about its sound while riding that just weren't quite the same. I couldn't pinpoint it, as it's my wife's bike and I haven't really logged enough time on it to say, but I just know it sounded different. There were some times when it bogged a bit when taking off and required more gas to get going. It did start up fine the rest of the trip, even the next morning when stone cold. I haven't had time to look at it yet, but I'm planning on checking the cyl compression and ignition spark next weekend. Just need to know what to look for in compression, aside from a significant difference from one to the other cylinder. (I don't have a leakdown tester and don't feel like making one just for this so I'm just gonna go with the basic compression and spark tests first to rule those out before looking further). Thanks!

Bike has been sold. Thanks for looking!

Changing my float level didn't fix my dribble, but replacing the needle and seat did. Figured I'd try the free option first, but I ended up having to drop the dough on it. They're nice and dry now.

Dern, I already got 'em and installed 'em. A friend is sponsored by a large local shop, and got me his discount on them. Still not that cheap, but they're OEM. Thanks anyway!

Gang, My carbs are leaking out the overflows. I used to be able to smack the carb bowl with a screwdriver handle and get it to seal up but that trick doesn't work any more. I haven't been able to find new needles for less than about $37 each. Anyone know of a reliable source for new needles for less $? (Incidentally, I tried setting the floats lower and replaced the o-ring on the seat, thinking fuel might be seeping past it, but neither made a difference). thanks!

I was just fiddling with this today with one of my carbs. Manual says 0.80" to 0.88" measured from the top of the float to the carb body where the gasket sits (remove the gasket and measure from the actual metal of the carb body where it sits). However it didn't make a difference for me. I also replaced the o-ring on the seat. No difference. I'm pretty sure I need a new needle valve, which I will be posting a question about next. I'm trying to find a source of new needle valves that don't cost an arm and a leg (prices are running about $37 per needle--ouch).

2000 Banshee See http://www.americansandassociation.org/php...=31&t=24334 Well-maintained, runs great ITP Sand Star front & rear tires on Douglas Wheels (blue label) Stock tires & wheels also included Pro Circuit 304 pipes K&N filter with Pro Flow billet adapter & Outerwear Shift Pro kit 13-tooth front sprocket Billet parking brake block-off Green sticker $3500 obo Local, cash sales only, please Located in San Diego County, CA PM me if interested

Nearing-desert-season bump!

2000 Banshee See http://www.americansandassociation.org/php...=31&t=24334 Well-maintained, runs great ITP Sand Star front & rear tires on Douglas Wheels (blue label) Stock tires & wheels also included Pro Circuit 304 pipes K&N filter with Pro Flow billet adapter & Outerwear Shift Pro kit 13-tooth front sprocket Billet parking brake block-off Green sticker $3800 obo Local, cash sales only, please Located in San Diego County, CA PM me if interested

That's not the ph# listed on their webpage: http://www.rickystator.com/06contact_us/contact_us01.html I don't know where the 819 area code is. They're in northeast San Diego County now (moved from the central eastern part), so the 760 area code will get you directly to him. Rich is a nice guy. He's been in the business for some 30 years now, I think. I know that we were getting stators re-wound by him in the early 80s. He makes good stuff and he does stand behind it. Approach him calmly and just tell him what happened. Understand that from his point of view there *are* people who don't know how to install parts correctly or abuse their bikes, so not all parts that grenade are his fault. But if you approach him in a calm, businesslike manner, it will get you a lot further than coming at him PO'd. _dennis

Last time I had a stripped spark plug boss in a VW head, the shop said don't even go *near* a helicoil. The hot item is the Timesert. I had them install it, and it was smooth sailing ever after. http://www.timesert.com/ _dennis

I use the same cleaner that I use on the filter element itself, the K&N brand spray cleaner. I clean them both at the same time (with the prefilter removed from the element, of course). Works fine. _d

Interesting. I'm running smaller mains (310) but bigger pilots (32.5) and I ride at about sea level. I don't know how many turns the air screws are adjusted, and I'm running at least 1 Alba needle (as a result of my friend and I tweaking one when reinstalling ) It's a bit of a smoker, but runs fine otherwise. Would it be better to up the mains and drop the pilots on mine (it's stock internally, just a K&N & no airbox lid, PC pipes)? _d

I wouldn't mind doing this eventually (myself) but how do you know the # degrees? Use a protractor and scribe lines on it before reinstallation? Got pix? _dennis

Koo, went by Motoworld and the same guy happened to be working. He took a closer look at the parts diagram and found the rubber rings (about $2.50 each), so I should be in business (they had 1 in stock, had to order the other). To make the upcoming return trip more worth my while, I went ahead and also ordered an Easy Clutch while I was there, for the wife's bike, so we'll see how that thing works out when I eventually get it on her bike thanks, _dennis

I haven't taken it apart yet. This is all kind of a pain because my bike is stored elsewhere, so I can't easily go look at it before or after I go to buy parts. I think I'll stop back by M-world and ask them to look more closely at the parts diagram and see if they can spot these rubber rings. thanx, _d

Err, I just paid almost $20 for these two things at Motoworld... They are solid plastic and consist of two halves that mate together. Are we talking about the same thing? Rubber rings? If I can score these same things for $3, I'd like to know where, so I could order them and return these suckers to Motoworld. They are Yamaha part # 1UY-23812-00, in case anyone can make use of that #. Or did I get the wrong parts? _dennis

Koo, thanks, guys _dennis